Bell 206 - Common errors, performance, handling & C of G characteristics...
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F.B.I.T
F.B.I.T
I use the above when starting any 206. You shouldnt have any problems if you follow all below.
F
Fuel Switch - Ensure On
Fuel Cap - Ensure Secure and On
Fuel Pressure - CB's in / Test seperately to ensure operation of both
Fuel Quantity - Ensure enough for the job
B
Blades - Level and Untied
I
Instruments - Static check of all but most importantly TOT <150 degrees
T
Throttle - Ensure completely closed
Timer - Have clock ready to start timer for start
I think if you cover all of these, you will never have a drama starting the Jetbox's
D1
I use the above when starting any 206. You shouldnt have any problems if you follow all below.
F
Fuel Switch - Ensure On
Fuel Cap - Ensure Secure and On
Fuel Pressure - CB's in / Test seperately to ensure operation of both
Fuel Quantity - Ensure enough for the job
B
Blades - Level and Untied
I
Instruments - Static check of all but most importantly TOT <150 degrees
T
Throttle - Ensure completely closed
Timer - Have clock ready to start timer for start
I think if you cover all of these, you will never have a drama starting the Jetbox's
D1
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No, the 206, regardless of model, does not have switches for the boost pumps. The only way to disable them is with the circuit breakers. In the L, the left boost pump is almost always pulled on the ground, because if the fuel valve is on, the boost pump is running, even with the battery off. That gives you two switches that will kill the battery if they are left on. Most experienced pilots pull the left boost pump breaker, just in case, because there are those who have, and those who will, in addition to those who both have and will.
I agree about the cyclic friction also, for two reasons. I can't stand the lack of feel, and I don't want the cyclic to fall all the way over if I happen to let go of it. I don't often do that in flight, but it's easy to do on the ground, when looking for paperwork or yelling at the pax to try to keep them alive when they get out or try to get in. It seems to me that most 206 pilots fly with zero friction, for reasons that escape me, but I always put friction on both the cyclic and collective. I don't want them to move unless I do the moving.
IMO the secret to flying a 206 is having very steady hands and very busy feet. You don't want the rotor moving around, but you don't want the fuselage to yaw at all, either. A 206 is severely limited in yaw control, and you never, ever want to let the thing start yawing. Come in hot and heavy, with a left crosswind, and you can get LTE before you can blink. The kinetic energy that has to be bled off is proportional to the mass, but to the square of the velocity. Come in fast and you have to pull a lot of collective, thus lots of left pedal, and the rotor vortex will hit the nearly stalled tailrotor and away you go. Slow approaches will save your butt. The 206 weathervanes strongly, and you're always better with the nose into the wind, even if that causes you to go over more obstacles. With a 20 knot wind or so, I've gone from flat pitch to OGE hover and back, repeatedly, with my feet flat on the floor. Any crosswind requires much more power, and the more crosswind, the more power required.
I agree about the cyclic friction also, for two reasons. I can't stand the lack of feel, and I don't want the cyclic to fall all the way over if I happen to let go of it. I don't often do that in flight, but it's easy to do on the ground, when looking for paperwork or yelling at the pax to try to keep them alive when they get out or try to get in. It seems to me that most 206 pilots fly with zero friction, for reasons that escape me, but I always put friction on both the cyclic and collective. I don't want them to move unless I do the moving.
IMO the secret to flying a 206 is having very steady hands and very busy feet. You don't want the rotor moving around, but you don't want the fuselage to yaw at all, either. A 206 is severely limited in yaw control, and you never, ever want to let the thing start yawing. Come in hot and heavy, with a left crosswind, and you can get LTE before you can blink. The kinetic energy that has to be bled off is proportional to the mass, but to the square of the velocity. Come in fast and you have to pull a lot of collective, thus lots of left pedal, and the rotor vortex will hit the nearly stalled tailrotor and away you go. Slow approaches will save your butt. The 206 weathervanes strongly, and you're always better with the nose into the wind, even if that causes you to go over more obstacles. With a 20 knot wind or so, I've gone from flat pitch to OGE hover and back, repeatedly, with my feet flat on the floor. Any crosswind requires much more power, and the more crosswind, the more power required.
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Compressor rinses are very important if you fly coastal. The pineapple looking part of the compressor corrodes faster than a rat up a drain pipe and is terribly expensive.
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Pardon the silly question (I prefer to ask and look inexperienced than not ask and look stupid 
), but by 'Light out' do you mean 'Engine off' light out? i.e. N1 > 55%? I have only started the 206 10/11 times and not heard that expression mentioned before... nor does the manual mention 'Light out' anywhere in the start checks, and in the engine start video's shown on youtube, many don't have any light's 'on' - to go out during the start (perhaps they've pulled the caution light breaker for start if no audio mute button installed, to prevent constant beep on start?)
EN48 - If you are starting using your method, and for some reason you do get a flame out, I assume the safe procedure would be to cool her down, rest it for 1 min and go again? (as opposed to keeping her motoring until TOT<150 and open up the fuel again?). I guess the 40sec Batt / 25sec GPU starter limitation, as well as a recommendation of introducing fuel at 12-15% N1 and not above, would indicate that it's necessary to rest her, and start again..
Gomer -
I know you are referring to the L models as opposed to the A/B but out of interest why in that case only pull the Left Boost Pump breaker? Is the Right boost pump turned off with the battery? Also is the logic here that in an electrical fire etc where you would turn the battery off, some fuel boost pressure would remain?
), but by 'Light out' do you mean 'Engine off' light out? i.e. N1 > 55%? I have only started the 206 10/11 times and not heard that expression mentioned before... nor does the manual mention 'Light out' anywhere in the start checks, and in the engine start video's shown on youtube, many don't have any light's 'on' - to go out during the start (perhaps they've pulled the caution light breaker for start if no audio mute button installed, to prevent constant beep on start?) EN48 - If you are starting using your method, and for some reason you do get a flame out, I assume the safe procedure would be to cool her down, rest it for 1 min and go again? (as opposed to keeping her motoring until TOT<150 and open up the fuel again?). I guess the 40sec Batt / 25sec GPU starter limitation, as well as a recommendation of introducing fuel at 12-15% N1 and not above, would indicate that it's necessary to rest her, and start again..
Gomer -
In the L, the left boost pump is almost always pulled on the ground, because if the fuel valve is on, the boost pump is running, even with the battery off
#1
Whatever else you do, don't ignore the strange knocking noise coming from the back. It's where your passengers who departed rotors running left the seatbelts outside of the aircraft and the buckle is now beating hell out your paintwork....a quick glance at the paintwork behind the rear door of a few Jetties will demonstrate that I am not alone in having fallen into this little trap!
#2
Always use a checklist on start. Even if you have started them a gazillion times before, you'll regret not doing it one day. I learned this when jumping into another machine (not my own), went to start all went well, until after a few seconds the turbine wound down. Turned out that the fuel valve was turned off. I know you should, but do we all? No
Question for other pilots of 206's: external fuel drain under the belly. Do you do this check/water drain on every flights, every day or every so often? I only ask as on my last Jettie, the drain had a tendency not to seal properly after each check, so I would do it 'occasionally'. That habit has transferred to my current machine. The walkround checklist lists it as a daily check...
Whatever else you do, don't ignore the strange knocking noise coming from the back. It's where your passengers who departed rotors running left the seatbelts outside of the aircraft and the buckle is now beating hell out your paintwork....a quick glance at the paintwork behind the rear door of a few Jetties will demonstrate that I am not alone in having fallen into this little trap!
#2
Always use a checklist on start. Even if you have started them a gazillion times before, you'll regret not doing it one day. I learned this when jumping into another machine (not my own), went to start all went well, until after a few seconds the turbine wound down. Turned out that the fuel valve was turned off. I know you should, but do we all? No
Question for other pilots of 206's: external fuel drain under the belly. Do you do this check/water drain on every flights, every day or every so often? I only ask as on my last Jettie, the drain had a tendency not to seal properly after each check, so I would do it 'occasionally'. That habit has transferred to my current machine. The walkround checklist lists it as a daily check...
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You can do whatever you like with the throttle, boost pumps, fuel valve etc BEFORE hitting the starter button, and it won't matter a rat's. All the boost pumps do is provide pressure up to the engine-driven pump. Nothing gets past that pump until it is running.
As mentioned before when hot and high keep on those pedals. If you let the yaw get away on you it will take more power to stop it especially in the L and you may not have the power and over torque. Sometimes it is actually easier to reduce collective rather than use lots of left pedal which may also require more collective. So if you find yourself running out of left pedal reduce the collective if possible. Don't forget to do a regular scan after any power change or at least every couple of minutes in flight and in the L check the forward fuel tanks regularly because if you got 300lbs of fuel and 150lbs in the FWD tank then you have a problem. I got caught once low fuel light flickered hit the caution panel to see what light was flickering looked like low fuel check the forward tank and it was still full. only had about 60lbs of usable fuel if I remember correct.
As for starting the 206 learn a flow start and once you learn a way that works for you don't let anyone change it or that will just screw you up and you will probably miss some checks. Was teaching a new pilot to start the 206 with the 2 finger method one on the starter and one presses the detent once it pops for a quicker shutoff. The guy pressed the detent and let go of the starter. luckily my hand was close by and caught the starter.........That was the last time I tried to change a guys system that worked for him as long as he didn't miss anything. Although learning the 2 finger start or as mentioned earlier just cracking the throttle and not going past the detent allows a quicker shut off and may just save you from a hot start one day.
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EN48 - this guy seems to follow the technique you mention, cracking it past the detente at around 30% N1 once the secondary start/acceleration spike has stabilised (he may have done it slightly before, but sounds similar)
BH06L3:
BH06L3 is a little confused. In a RR-250, the engine-driven fuel pump is what they call a "positive displacement pump." That is, if it stops, the boost pumps *cannot* push fuel through it. If the engine-driven pump stops (shaft shears, say), the engine WILL quit from fuel starvation.
Conversely, with the engine shut down there is no way that fuel can make it past the engine-driven fuel pump to the fuel control and then to the nozzle screwed into the burner can.
The drain valve on the airframe fuel filter on the engine deck is *before* fuel gets to the engine-driven fuel pump and fuel control. In the case BH06L3 cites, the result would have been the same whether the "throttle" was opened or closed. If the battery is on and the A/F fuel filter drain is left open, boost pump pressure will cause fuel to spew out if the fuel shut-off is open. But no fuel will go through the engine.
You cannot "flood" a turbine engine if it is not running. Fuel will not get past a non-rotating engine-driven fuel pump.
I would not agree with the statement above as I have flooded the engine can doing a A/F fuel filter drain. Throttle was left full open and when boost pumps and Battery where turned on fuel started spewing out the engine drain valve......
Conversely, with the engine shut down there is no way that fuel can make it past the engine-driven fuel pump to the fuel control and then to the nozzle screwed into the burner can.
The drain valve on the airframe fuel filter on the engine deck is *before* fuel gets to the engine-driven fuel pump and fuel control. In the case BH06L3 cites, the result would have been the same whether the "throttle" was opened or closed. If the battery is on and the A/F fuel filter drain is left open, boost pump pressure will cause fuel to spew out if the fuel shut-off is open. But no fuel will go through the engine.
You cannot "flood" a turbine engine if it is not running. Fuel will not get past a non-rotating engine-driven fuel pump.
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"Question for other pilots of 206's: external fuel drain under the belly. Do you do this check/water drain on every flights, every day or every so often? I only ask as on my last Jettie, the drain had a tendency not to seal properly after each check, so I would do it 'occasionally'. That habit has transferred to my current machine. The walkround checklist lists it as a daily check..."
Should be every day - you can't rely that much on the suppliers to do their jobs properly. Sounds like it needs fixing. The Twin Squirrl has that problem as well.
Phil
Should be every day - you can't rely that much on the suppliers to do their jobs properly. Sounds like it needs fixing. The Twin Squirrl has that problem as well.
Phil
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Conversely, with the engine shut down there is no way that fuel can make it past the engine-driven fuel pump to the fuel control and then to the nozzle screwed into the burner can.
Well I can tell you that I have filled the burner can full of fuel on a jetranger when attempting to drain the A/F fuel filter ( boost pumps on, Battery on, Throttle left in full open position). The Owner & DOM of the company I worked for interrupted me in the process and after talking for a moment we all heard fuel spilling all over the hangar floor which was draining out of the burner can. So we had to wheel it outside pulled the IGN breaker and motored the starter a couple times waited a bit then perfect start.
I am not saying you are wrong and I am no AME just a pilot, but I do know the difference between the A/F fuel filter and burner can. And no, definately not confused.
Another thing for new pilots to watch out for is when draining the fuel from the A/F fuel filter be careful that the boost pumps are on and that the drain valve is closed after draining If the boost pumps are off and drain valve locks open and not noticed when you start the aircraft you will have fuel draining out of the helicopter and I have heard of pilots taking off with the drain valve still open.
Last edited by BH06L3; 7th Feb 2011 at 14:53.
Back to the boost pump CB question.....on the L's the left boost pump is connected direct to the battery. That way, if one has complete electrical failure, you will still have the left boost pump operating.
The only way to turn it off is to either pull the left boost CB----OR turn off the fuel valve (which is the Bell recommended procedure. This is taken directly from the flight manual shutdown checklist for the L4.
There is NO mention of pulling any CB's. From a legal standpoint, (and you all know how I love to argue this....), by pulling the CB, you will be in a bad position should something go wrong---especially in a litigious society that we all now find ourselves in.
Onto some helpful numbers:
I fly in the mountains most of the time and was taught these by the former chief pilot of Rocky Mountain Helicopters...
These numbers assume the following approach procedure:
1. Set up for a steep approach to be 100 feet above the obstacle in front of you....for the sake of explanation we will call this the "decision point". You would aim to arrive at the decision point in a deceleration to little to no airspeed and less than 300fpm descent and almost hover power.
2. Just as you reach the decision point, assuming you have made the approach smoothly, you will push the nose over slightly to stop the deceleration and you will feel a little drop..raise the collective a tad to stop the drop and note your pedal position, N1 and TOT.
3. From those numbers you need the following to hover IGE:
a. An extra ONE inch of left pedal
b. An extra 10% N1
c. An extra 35 degrees TOT
4. From those numbers you need the following to hover OGE.
a. An extra one and half inch of left pedal
b. An extra 15% N1
c. An extra 50 degrees of TOT
Therefore if when you add the extra pedal you are at the stop, or if when you add the extra N1 or TOT to what you have already and it puts you in the red....you are in a position right now to pull power gently and nose over slowly to regain airspeed and fly away. I have used these numbers in the Jetranger, the L4 and a 407 and they all work.
I will agree with everyone else that the Bells work really well as long as you take your time and do not rush.
When operating hot and high, with heavy loads, you need to let the aircraft "catch its breath" on lift off......by this what I mean is take it slow---I will start to lift the bucket out of the water and once I start to take the strain, will pause for a few seconds without moving the collective....the aircraft will "catch its breath" and start lifting all by itself.....
I am lucky that I work the same helicopter, (LaFawnduh..) year round. It sounds weird and I expect to be teased by this---but learn to become one with your helicopter...... treat her with respect...... give her a name, (just like the aircraft in the world wars), and others will treat her with respect too, they will no longer see it as just a machine...... Most of all...have fun.... some of us have the best job in the world, and the rest reading this have the best hobby in the world....enjoy.
The only way to turn it off is to either pull the left boost CB----OR turn off the fuel valve (which is the Bell recommended procedure. This is taken directly from the flight manual shutdown checklist for the L4.
NOTE
Left fuel boost pump will continue to
operate until FUEL VALVE switch is
positioned to OFF. This pump
operates directly from battery and
will not be deactivated when BAT
switch is OFF. Battery power will be
depleted if FUEL VALVE switch
remains on.
17. FUEL VALVE switch — OFF.
Left fuel boost pump will continue to
operate until FUEL VALVE switch is
positioned to OFF. This pump
operates directly from battery and
will not be deactivated when BAT
switch is OFF. Battery power will be
depleted if FUEL VALVE switch
remains on.
17. FUEL VALVE switch — OFF.
Onto some helpful numbers:
I fly in the mountains most of the time and was taught these by the former chief pilot of Rocky Mountain Helicopters...
These numbers assume the following approach procedure:
1. Set up for a steep approach to be 100 feet above the obstacle in front of you....for the sake of explanation we will call this the "decision point". You would aim to arrive at the decision point in a deceleration to little to no airspeed and less than 300fpm descent and almost hover power.
2. Just as you reach the decision point, assuming you have made the approach smoothly, you will push the nose over slightly to stop the deceleration and you will feel a little drop..raise the collective a tad to stop the drop and note your pedal position, N1 and TOT.
3. From those numbers you need the following to hover IGE:
a. An extra ONE inch of left pedal
b. An extra 10% N1
c. An extra 35 degrees TOT
4. From those numbers you need the following to hover OGE.
a. An extra one and half inch of left pedal
b. An extra 15% N1
c. An extra 50 degrees of TOT
Therefore if when you add the extra pedal you are at the stop, or if when you add the extra N1 or TOT to what you have already and it puts you in the red....you are in a position right now to pull power gently and nose over slowly to regain airspeed and fly away. I have used these numbers in the Jetranger, the L4 and a 407 and they all work.
I will agree with everyone else that the Bells work really well as long as you take your time and do not rush.
When operating hot and high, with heavy loads, you need to let the aircraft "catch its breath" on lift off......by this what I mean is take it slow---I will start to lift the bucket out of the water and once I start to take the strain, will pause for a few seconds without moving the collective....the aircraft will "catch its breath" and start lifting all by itself.....
I am lucky that I work the same helicopter, (LaFawnduh..) year round. It sounds weird and I expect to be teased by this---but learn to become one with your helicopter...... treat her with respect...... give her a name, (just like the aircraft in the world wars), and others will treat her with respect too, they will no longer see it as just a machine...... Most of all...have fun.... some of us have the best job in the world, and the rest reading this have the best hobby in the world....enjoy.
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If you are starting using your method, and for some reason you do get a flame out,
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Gordy, I'm not saying that the circuit breaker should be pulled, just that it is almost always pulled when I preflight the aircraft. Pulling circuit breakers in flight is, IMO, not quite the same as pulling them while the engine is not running. I don't often do it, but it does seem to be common practice.
@Aucky: Gordy pretty well covered your question. The right boost pump is off if the battery is off, but the left is wired differently. Rube Goldberg obviously worked very closely with Bell, especially with the fuel system designers, and most especially with those who designed the one on the 412. I suspect Rube himself did that job.
@Aucky: Gordy pretty well covered your question. The right boost pump is off if the battery is off, but the left is wired differently. Rube Goldberg obviously worked very closely with Bell, especially with the fuel system designers, and most especially with those who designed the one on the 412. I suspect Rube himself did that job.
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In the cruise on a jolly for the neighbours, when the rear passenger door popped open in flight. Screams from the passengers. Landed to sort it out.
1968 vintage AB206 lesson: If the ladies in the back are together wider than the back seat, put one of them in the front. The door latches are lame.
I know, I know, the slim pretty one was in the front.
1968 vintage AB206 lesson: If the ladies in the back are together wider than the back seat, put one of them in the front. The door latches are lame.
I know, I know, the slim pretty one was in the front.
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on the L's the left boost pump is connected direct to the battery. That way, if one has complete electrical failure, you will still have the left boost pump operating.
Something not often realised is that the fuel pump warning lights in the 206L series actually sense flow and not pressure. Only by cross referencing the fuel pressure gauge will you be able to determine if you have had a pump failure or just a venturi blockage within the poorly named 'transfer pump system'
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1. Don't paint the tail cone white - it'll stain and go grey from exhaust fumes
2. Carry some oil with you on long flights - All 206's leak - even the brand new ones from the factory
3. Install low skids if you want less drag to go faster
4. Replace your expensive NiCads with very cheap Odysseys.
2. Carry some oil with you on long flights - All 206's leak - even the brand new ones from the factory
3. Install low skids if you want less drag to go faster
4. Replace your expensive NiCads with very cheap Odysseys.
Speaking of c.g.
The question often comes up: Where do you put the second passenger?
The first, obviously, goes in the "copilot" seat. But what if there are two pax?
Some pilots want the second passenger right behind them, i.e. in the right-rear seat. This makes the ship hover a little more skids-level.
Me...and I know you're going to think I'm crazy...but I prefer to have the second pax on the left-hand side. This way, the ship hovers a little more left-side low. For me, it's easier to land if I can feel for that left-rear skid to touch. Put that on the ground, then ease the rest of the landing gear down. Otherwise, my landings are sometimes akin to what happens when you drop a silver dollar on a table.
One side benefit to having both people on the left is that they'll both get out on the left-hand side. If someone is sitting behind you, no matter what you've told them previously, it is GUARANTEED that as soon as the skids touch he'll pop the door, hop out and then walk under the tail boom to the baggage compartment before you can get the rotor down to idle. Sometimes I wish the 206 didn't even have a left-rear door - just the pop-out window. Sometimes I wish helicopters had those child-proof doors like cars have. (Not really, but you know...)
Landing with pax onboard is like herding cats. And the more they've flown, the more they think they know, the more dangerous they are.
The first, obviously, goes in the "copilot" seat. But what if there are two pax?
Some pilots want the second passenger right behind them, i.e. in the right-rear seat. This makes the ship hover a little more skids-level.
Me...and I know you're going to think I'm crazy...but I prefer to have the second pax on the left-hand side. This way, the ship hovers a little more left-side low. For me, it's easier to land if I can feel for that left-rear skid to touch. Put that on the ground, then ease the rest of the landing gear down. Otherwise, my landings are sometimes akin to what happens when you drop a silver dollar on a table.
One side benefit to having both people on the left is that they'll both get out on the left-hand side. If someone is sitting behind you, no matter what you've told them previously, it is GUARANTEED that as soon as the skids touch he'll pop the door, hop out and then walk under the tail boom to the baggage compartment before you can get the rotor down to idle. Sometimes I wish the 206 didn't even have a left-rear door - just the pop-out window. Sometimes I wish helicopters had those child-proof doors like cars have. (Not really, but you know...)
Landing with pax onboard is like herding cats. And the more they've flown, the more they think they know, the more dangerous they are.
.
As PACO mentioned, this should be a daily check but, 206's (both regular and L's) are susceptible to 'sticking' fuel drains and I have come to the rescue of more than one 206 driver who, standing beside his trusty steed, was scratching his head wondering when his beast would stop peeing!
The solution is to tap the end of the fuel drain outlet (anything solid will do) and which usually abates the leak. Thereafter one should inform maintenance to get it fixed.
My godfather named just about every aircraft he flew. He formed emotional attachments with them, would tell stories about them and would talk to them. It was not however something I was able to replicate during my own career but, I get what you are saying.
Re: Treating the aircraft with respect, this (to me) naturally flows from an emotional attachment. As I was unable to form strong emotional attachments with the aircraft I flew this 'respect' was manifest through developing an awareness of the aircraft's and my own limitations.
Re: Circuit breakers, in my view the fuel pumps and caution warning should have been switches. The pumps are so loud that simply by selecting them one by one you can establish whether they are functioning (corroborated of course by the corresponding pressure indication). Like many I would rarely leave the pumps running without the engine in order to conserve battery power. As for the caution warning I simply couldn't tollerate that shrill bleeping sound and so the confouded thing was decidedly off until N1 was properly established and off again just prior shut down! (It was also easier to confirm the operation of the igniters with the caution off).
Re: Controls. I always maintained slight friction on the collective and which was usually applied post take off but would operate the cyclic friction free. I would very much like to have sampled Ferranti's auto-stabilisation system for the 206 but, alas, never had the opportunity. Rumours were that it made the 206 a dream to fly!
While I prefer flying aircraft with more than two main blades the 206 has (despite what I have written above) earned a place of nostalgic affection with me. As with the R22 she pretty much transformed the industry and I struggle to think of an application in which she has not been used. She is as reliable as ever - the Labrador of helicopters.
S.
206 Jock said: " .. the drain had a tendency not to seal properly after each check .."
The solution is to tap the end of the fuel drain outlet (anything solid will do) and which usually abates the leak. Thereafter one should inform maintenance to get it fixed.
Gordy said: "It sounds weird and I expect to be teased by this but learn to become one with your helicopter, to treat her with respect, give her a name .."
Re: Treating the aircraft with respect, this (to me) naturally flows from an emotional attachment. As I was unable to form strong emotional attachments with the aircraft I flew this 'respect' was manifest through developing an awareness of the aircraft's and my own limitations.
Re: Circuit breakers, in my view the fuel pumps and caution warning should have been switches. The pumps are so loud that simply by selecting them one by one you can establish whether they are functioning (corroborated of course by the corresponding pressure indication). Like many I would rarely leave the pumps running without the engine in order to conserve battery power. As for the caution warning I simply couldn't tollerate that shrill bleeping sound and so the confouded thing was decidedly off until N1 was properly established and off again just prior shut down! (It was also easier to confirm the operation of the igniters with the caution off).
Re: Controls. I always maintained slight friction on the collective and which was usually applied post take off but would operate the cyclic friction free. I would very much like to have sampled Ferranti's auto-stabilisation system for the 206 but, alas, never had the opportunity. Rumours were that it made the 206 a dream to fly!
While I prefer flying aircraft with more than two main blades the 206 has (despite what I have written above) earned a place of nostalgic affection with me. As with the R22 she pretty much transformed the industry and I struggle to think of an application in which she has not been used. She is as reliable as ever - the Labrador of helicopters.
S.
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Canada
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bell 206 performance computer and cruise data guide
G'day to All
Re'f BELL 206 performance computer and cruise data guide
I know a wizz weel computer exist for the OH-58A kiowa.
Wonder if we have a equivalent for the civil 206b,b2,b3,l,l1,l3,l4.
GUY
Re'f BELL 206 performance computer and cruise data guide
I know a wizz weel computer exist for the OH-58A kiowa.
Wonder if we have a equivalent for the civil 206b,b2,b3,l,l1,l3,l4.
GUY
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: earth
Posts: 76
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Moving from B3 to L3
I'll be moving over to an L3 soon and would appreciate some info on the transition. What can I expect to do differently from the trusty old B3?
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.