The R22 corner: Owning, flying & training questions
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R22Tail Rotor Control Pedal Bearing Block Support - Inspection / Replacement
EASA Airworthiness Directives Publishing Tool
Just to pass on details of an AD
Just to pass on details of an AD
This amendment is prompted by two reports of Model R22 helicopters experiencing broken supports during flight, which resulted in the T/R control pedals becoming jammed. The actions specified by this AD are intended to prevent the supports from breaking, which can bind the T/R control pedals, resulting in a reduction of yaw control and subsequent loss of control of the helicopter.
R22 Mariner II
Ummm, whats happened to the R22 Mariner II, can't seem to find it ton the RHC web under products. Swore it was one of the options of the R22....unless the Mariner's stopped production?
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Robinson R22 Clutch Actuator Fuse failure reasons?
My fuse burned and when replaced, the clutch actuator functions normally. A mechanic told me probably related to a low battery charge since not flying as much during the winter but happened again when just flown 2 days ago. Any ideas or thoughts appreciated. 
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Check the wires that run across the top of the Globe clutch motor on the left hand side of the aircraft at the tailboom attach points, it is best to put a dob of silicone where they chafe on the edge of the motor.
Otherwise, check the disengage limit microswitch, (the limit screw you use to ensure the blades are turning within the required time). I have had instances where the clutch reaches its disengage limit internally before the microswitch tells it to stop and the resulting high current draw blows the fuse. If you have Revision Z belts fitted, I wouldn't be surprised if this is the problem.
Hope that helps! Happy New Year!
Otherwise, check the disengage limit microswitch, (the limit screw you use to ensure the blades are turning within the required time). I have had instances where the clutch reaches its disengage limit internally before the microswitch tells it to stop and the resulting high current draw blows the fuse. If you have Revision Z belts fitted, I wouldn't be surprised if this is the problem.
Hope that helps! Happy New Year!
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What is a spindle/spindle bearing? (R22)
Hi,
I am just wondering what a spindle/spindle bearing is. I have looked around and am quite unsure. I am not sure if there is a difference between spindle and spindle bearing.
How important is it, also. (might be a silly question)
Edit: I am talking about spindle bearings in relation to - the rotor system(blades/hub/) of the Robinson R22 Helicopter.
Thank you!
I found some pics online. I am not sure if they are of the entire thing, or only parts.
(courtesy of http://www.covehelicopter.com/uploads/Spindle.jpg and http://unicopter.com/Temporary/Robinson_Spindle.gif respectively)
I am just wondering what a spindle/spindle bearing is. I have looked around and am quite unsure. I am not sure if there is a difference between spindle and spindle bearing.
How important is it, also. (might be a silly question)
Edit: I am talking about spindle bearings in relation to - the rotor system(blades/hub/) of the Robinson R22 Helicopter.
Thank you!
I found some pics online. I am not sure if they are of the entire thing, or only parts.
(courtesy of http://www.covehelicopter.com/uploads/Spindle.jpg and http://unicopter.com/Temporary/Robinson_Spindle.gif respectively)
Last edited by ifresh21; 13th Apr 2011 at 18:28.
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Depends how big the overspeed was. At worst it can cause damage to the spindle bearing. The spindle bearings purpose is to allow the blade to change pitch. If it is damaged then the helicopter can develop vibrations and become difficult to control.
If an over speed is suspected then one of the actions would be to remove the blades and check the spindle bearings to see if there is a problem. Without draining the fluid in the boot this is problematic. Sometimes it is obvious that the bearing does not feel right without draining the fluid but it is much more apparent after the fluid has been drained.
If an over speed is suspected then one of the actions would be to remove the blades and check the spindle bearings to see if there is a problem. Without draining the fluid in the boot this is problematic. Sometimes it is obvious that the bearing does not feel right without draining the fluid but it is much more apparent after the fluid has been drained.
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Ok so spindle bearings cause the blades to change pitch. So the entire assembly is the "spindle", and the "spindle bearings" are in inside the assembly.?
Does anyone have an idea of why exactly it is that the spindle bearings are damaged due to high RPM? Why is it that out of all the parts, the bearings inside that would become damaged?
Does anyone have an idea of why exactly it is that the spindle bearings are damaged due to high RPM? Why is it that out of all the parts, the bearings inside that would become damaged?
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Ok I'll try to help you in your picture the lower right image that looks like an axle off the front of your motor car and it works in exactly the same way. you will see there is a hole through it which allows it to be connected to the head, rigid in the lateral plane. It has a thread on the end, that there device is the SPINDLE.
It is a spindle cos everything else spins around it OK?
fitted over that is two bearings and a seal, the white bit in the bottom picture, and on the end is a nut, which has a locking device on it to stop it coming off.
Those bearings are the spindle bearings, the outer race of them are fit snugly inside the blade root (the belled out section) in such a manner that the outer race stays fixed firmly to the blade which turns with the blade when the pitch horn is pushed up or down.
Inside the bearing is a set of small balls which act as rollers and run in a grooved race and allow the turning up or down movement of the usual pitch change.
Those bearings are rated to carry a heavy load dependent on the weight and rotational speed of the particular helicopter blades, as when the blades rotate they generate centrifugal force.
If the blades spin too fast the force will be greater than the load rating of those particular bearings and they abrade heavily against the outer race causing indentations. That is a loose description of what a brinelled bearing will look like, one with indents around the outer race and the balls bounce over them when the blade is rotated up or down by hand.
Or they will be be stuck in them when it is running and thus not allowing the free movement which causes much more wear than if they were allowed to move freely.
that will cause the bearing to wear out quickly and allow for looser uncontrolled movements of the blades which will put them out of alignment at random times thus causing all sorts of nasty bounces.
If unchecked the bearing would eventually collapse and one or other of the blades might fly off. That would really bring tears to your eyes and almost certainly pop the wax outa yer ears just prior to your departure onward to the pearly gates.
howzat, comprez?
tet
It is a spindle cos everything else spins around it OK?
fitted over that is two bearings and a seal, the white bit in the bottom picture, and on the end is a nut, which has a locking device on it to stop it coming off.
Those bearings are the spindle bearings, the outer race of them are fit snugly inside the blade root (the belled out section) in such a manner that the outer race stays fixed firmly to the blade which turns with the blade when the pitch horn is pushed up or down.
Inside the bearing is a set of small balls which act as rollers and run in a grooved race and allow the turning up or down movement of the usual pitch change.
Those bearings are rated to carry a heavy load dependent on the weight and rotational speed of the particular helicopter blades, as when the blades rotate they generate centrifugal force.
If the blades spin too fast the force will be greater than the load rating of those particular bearings and they abrade heavily against the outer race causing indentations. That is a loose description of what a brinelled bearing will look like, one with indents around the outer race and the balls bounce over them when the blade is rotated up or down by hand.
Or they will be be stuck in them when it is running and thus not allowing the free movement which causes much more wear than if they were allowed to move freely.
that will cause the bearing to wear out quickly and allow for looser uncontrolled movements of the blades which will put them out of alignment at random times thus causing all sorts of nasty bounces.
If unchecked the bearing would eventually collapse and one or other of the blades might fly off. That would really bring tears to your eyes and almost certainly pop the wax outa yer ears just prior to your departure onward to the pearly gates.
howzat, comprez?
tet
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Thank you for the really good in depth description topend.
So the bearings are the only thing connecting the blade to the rest of the rotor head? I figured that the bearings weren't actually holding the blade against the centrifugal force to keep them from flying away, just allowing them to rotate.
So what signs would there be before catastrophic failure(R22)? Would you be able to feel it when you to the cyclic and collective checks(moving the collective and cyclic around before start). Any inflight signs etc.
So the bearings are the only thing connecting the blade to the rest of the rotor head? I figured that the bearings weren't actually holding the blade against the centrifugal force to keep them from flying away, just allowing them to rotate.
So what signs would there be before catastrophic failure(R22)? Would you be able to feel it when you to the cyclic and collective checks(moving the collective and cyclic around before start). Any inflight signs etc.
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you wouldn't notice it in the cyclic but the collective may well be much heavier than usual.
You can feel it when you do your daily inspection. an exaggerated feeling would be like rolling under your hand a six sided pencil across a smooth table top.
It may be unusual for a pilot training facility to have a set of brinelled bearings as a teaching aide for demonstration purposes, but they should have.
alternatively you could go down to your local friendly motor car repair station and ask for a set of worn out front stub axle bearings. They might be roller bearings instead of ball bearings, but the same principle applies and they are easy to dissasemble and then you will see the small indentations on both the inner and outer races, and sometimes the same on the rollers, and in extreme cases under a ten power magnifying glass you can easily see where small slivers of steel have departed the bearing surfaces of all three components.
Put a very light coating of light oil on the bearing surfaces, hold them together firmly and rotate them against each other and you will easily feel the brinelling action.
Those tiny slivers of steel is one of the things that you look for to indicate wear in any bearings and other parts of your engine when you cut open your oil filter and examine the contents.
you should also have a ten power glass in you kit at all times to check other suspicious looking marks which may be cracks.
You can feel it when you do your daily inspection. an exaggerated feeling would be like rolling under your hand a six sided pencil across a smooth table top.
It may be unusual for a pilot training facility to have a set of brinelled bearings as a teaching aide for demonstration purposes, but they should have.
alternatively you could go down to your local friendly motor car repair station and ask for a set of worn out front stub axle bearings. They might be roller bearings instead of ball bearings, but the same principle applies and they are easy to dissasemble and then you will see the small indentations on both the inner and outer races, and sometimes the same on the rollers, and in extreme cases under a ten power magnifying glass you can easily see where small slivers of steel have departed the bearing surfaces of all three components.
Put a very light coating of light oil on the bearing surfaces, hold them together firmly and rotate them against each other and you will easily feel the brinelling action.
Those tiny slivers of steel is one of the things that you look for to indicate wear in any bearings and other parts of your engine when you cut open your oil filter and examine the contents.
you should also have a ten power glass in you kit at all times to check other suspicious looking marks which may be cracks.
Normally apparent after the Robinson phenomena of "kicking a goal"
Thats when them 2 little white RPM needles do their best impression of a couple of goal posts!
I'll get my coat.
Thats when them 2 little white RPM needles do their best impression of a couple of goal posts!
I'll get my coat.
ifresh21, I think that T-E-T has given a great explanation,especially with the analogy to the car.Many components/driveshafts /gearboxes can be related to autos in operation ,although they may look somewhat different. Remember also that the t/rotor also has similar bearings,and a failure /impending problem can sometimes be felt thru` the yaw pedals....however,it needs `sympathetic` feet/hands to feel a `brinelling` bearing,but if you are ever in doubt,get an engineer to check.If you look at the thread `A haven for rotary nostalgia,p 26, #518, you will also see the results/analysis of a `Jesus nut ` that had not been inspected properly/used repeatedly possibly ,with the loss of pilot and aircraft. I` ve also had a t/r failure when the t/r blade spindle had not been `rolled` properly in manufacture,allowing it to fatigue,crack ,and then fail,taking the blade with it,followed very shortly after by the rest of the t/r and gearbox...
Personally,I`ve only flown a few hours in an R22,and whilst it`is not my `cup of tea`,I just hate the E/RRPM gauge,as it smacks of `cheap &cheerful`, for perhaps the most important gauge in the cockpit,given the rotor properties of the helo...It should be big ,and round,easy to read,so that one can relate RRPM to the soundof the engine/rotors ,very precisely..(end of little rant !)
Learn all you can about the systems in any/every helo,especially when they are `undressed` in the hangar.....enjoy your flying..
Personally,I`ve only flown a few hours in an R22,and whilst it`is not my `cup of tea`,I just hate the E/RRPM gauge,as it smacks of `cheap &cheerful`, for perhaps the most important gauge in the cockpit,given the rotor properties of the helo...It should be big ,and round,easy to read,so that one can relate RRPM to the soundof the engine/rotors ,very precisely..(end of little rant !)
Learn all you can about the systems in any/every helo,especially when they are `undressed` in the hangar.....enjoy your flying..
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Thank you very much guys.
Thanks topend
Just to confirm, when you say there would be an exaggerated feel - you mean during the preflight(engine off) check where you move the collective around, right?
I'm gonna order the magnifying glass now. Good idea.
Btw that is really mean RVDT lol
Thanks topend
Just to confirm, when you say there would be an exaggerated feel - you mean during the preflight(engine off) check where you move the collective around, right? I'm gonna order the magnifying glass now. Good idea.
Btw that is really mean RVDT lol
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Someone else moved the collective and you held your hand on the blade root. When I said, 'exaggerated' I meant that the pencil would bounce up and down much more than your hand would feel in the blade, but a bump is a bump, is a bump. It's much easier to feel the condition on a brinelled '47.
An engineer testing the blade might disconnect the pitch horns and feel each blade separately. He would also check for oil leaking out of the boot as well.
May I reassure you but not gaurantee that it would be very difficult to fly the aircraft until a major failure. It's been our experience that a not very worn out bearing created a major upheavel in the smoothness of the rotor disc to the point where it really couldn't be flown and was frightening.
It seems that the indentations plus wear might be there and as the balls in the bearing move around, as the blades flex from loaded to unloaded say, they occasionally they will line up to give really bad vibes.
Just keep your eye on the RPM don't trust a silly governor, they are mechanical / electrical so they are fallacious.
An engineer testing the blade might disconnect the pitch horns and feel each blade separately. He would also check for oil leaking out of the boot as well.
May I reassure you but not gaurantee that it would be very difficult to fly the aircraft until a major failure. It's been our experience that a not very worn out bearing created a major upheavel in the smoothness of the rotor disc to the point where it really couldn't be flown and was frightening.
It seems that the indentations plus wear might be there and as the balls in the bearing move around, as the blades flex from loaded to unloaded say, they occasionally they will line up to give really bad vibes.
Just keep your eye on the RPM don't trust a silly governor, they are mechanical / electrical so they are fallacious.