Bell 206: JetRanger and LongRanger
buying Bell 206a with C18
I am looking at buying a 206A (low skid) normal cat, with a C18, other than the obvious fact that these are lower powered than the 20b how do they preform with 4 people and full fuel in Australian conditions? If I replace the engine with a 20b do I need to replace tail rotor or anything else? Do I have to replace the whole eng or just the compressor to get more hp. Thanks in advance
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Buying a Bell 206A with C18
as350nut: First of all, there's no such thing as 'low skids', this is a common misconception since they're always compared to 'high skids'. The correct term is 'standard skid gear'.
"...4 people and full fuel in Australian conditions..." might not be achievable under some (most?) conditions. Plus, have you determined if the 250-C18 is still supported in your area?
If you eventually decided to replace the -C18 with a -C20 the work will (should) be performed in accordance with a Bell SI (Service Instruction) but before commiting yourself ensure that a parts kit is available from BHT - this is a VERY old conversion. If I remember correctly, the principal parts requirement is, in addition to a -C20 engine, a) a new torque indicator, b) a replacement collective contiol tube (on the transmission deck) and, c) new engine mounts.
I'm not sure how the -C18 is, or can be, converted to a -C20 in the field.
Finally, if you do manage to get the conversion done don't forget to amend the Flight Manual, and remember, you don't now have a 206B (another misconception), what you have is a 206A flown in accordance with a 206B Flight Manual.
"...4 people and full fuel in Australian conditions..." might not be achievable under some (most?) conditions. Plus, have you determined if the 250-C18 is still supported in your area?
If you eventually decided to replace the -C18 with a -C20 the work will (should) be performed in accordance with a Bell SI (Service Instruction) but before commiting yourself ensure that a parts kit is available from BHT - this is a VERY old conversion. If I remember correctly, the principal parts requirement is, in addition to a -C20 engine, a) a new torque indicator, b) a replacement collective contiol tube (on the transmission deck) and, c) new engine mounts.
I'm not sure how the -C18 is, or can be, converted to a -C20 in the field.
Finally, if you do manage to get the conversion done don't forget to amend the Flight Manual, and remember, you don't now have a 206B (another misconception), what you have is a 206A flown in accordance with a 206B Flight Manual.
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Performance would depend on the size of the people.... The smaller variety would be fine, but after a few years and a few tinnies, might get tough in the summer...
You shouldn't need to change the tail rotor, just keep it into wind, and moving if loaded.
You may need to upgrade transmission from 3 to 4 stage. 206A to B xmsn, I think... Most people on here will tell you that there are no 3 stage xmsns around anymore, but there are still a few, very few.
"A" model with C20B is a great machine, and with the 4stage xmsn will out perform the latest 206. It's the lightest airframe, with good eng, and xmsn, has to be a winner. If it's really early A model it was made by Beech, pre 600, I think and they are even lighter.
In NZ we call the conversion the 206 A/B, not sure if that's an official title, or just our way of keeping track of things, back when there were lots of A's here.
You shouldn't need to change the tail rotor, just keep it into wind, and moving if loaded.
You may need to upgrade transmission from 3 to 4 stage. 206A to B xmsn, I think... Most people on here will tell you that there are no 3 stage xmsns around anymore, but there are still a few, very few.
"A" model with C20B is a great machine, and with the 4stage xmsn will out perform the latest 206. It's the lightest airframe, with good eng, and xmsn, has to be a winner. If it's really early A model it was made by Beech, pre 600, I think and they are even lighter.
In NZ we call the conversion the 206 A/B, not sure if that's an official title, or just our way of keeping track of things, back when there were lots of A's here.
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I looked at an A model a couple of years ago. For the most part, C18 aren't supported very well, if at all here in the states so you can plan on having even less support else where. When you do the C20 mod, you will have to disconnect the tail rotor boost. The A was the only one to have it.
About the only advantage of the C18 is that it has no cycle items in the engine, unlike the later versions, which is why the ride folks like the engine.
About the only advantage of the C18 is that it has no cycle items in the engine, unlike the later versions, which is why the ride folks like the engine.
Drinks less gas though. A c-18 ship would be great for a private owner who wants to jolly around in a turbine for the least cost. Just don't carry more than 2 fat-ass pax.
When you do the C20 mod, you will have to disconnect the tail rotor boost. The A was the only one to have it.
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Bell 206 Spare Parts
Greetings
Can anyone shed some light on the cost and availability of spare parts for the 206 given that production of this machine ceased in 2010..? Is the Bell 206 still a viable option, given the history of the Bell 47..?
Can anyone shed some light on the cost and availability of spare parts for the 206 given that production of this machine ceased in 2010..? Is the Bell 206 still a viable option, given the history of the Bell 47..?
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Skids
I have a 206 with floats, I want to take them off and replace them with high skids, and then sell the float skids..
Anyone know of any skids for sale?
Anyone need a set of floats?
If so, please drop me a PM.
Thanks..
Fly safe..
Anyone know of any skids for sale?
Anyone need a set of floats?
If so, please drop me a PM.
Thanks..
Fly safe..
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Bell 206 Spare Parts
Greetings
So no one is particularly worried about cost of spares in the future...? Can anyone tell me what will happen when main rotor blades time out and need replacing..? Is there an after market solution for this..?
So no one is particularly worried about cost of spares in the future...? Can anyone tell me what will happen when main rotor blades time out and need replacing..? Is there an after market solution for this..?
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If you're looking for skids or want to sell the floats, try Airplanes & Aircraft Parts For Sale - Free Classified Ads - Ultralights to Airliners - Used Aircraft and Helicopter Sales and Classifieds including Cessna, Beechcraft, Piper, de Havilland, Boeing, Airbus and Lockheed planes
Just having some Airwolf straps fitted to my 206, will be released to service next week.
I'm looking forward to a smoother flight, a 3 year change cycle (as and when approved) and world peace. All with a cheaper strap! Hurrah!
Let's be honest: Bell have been milking the strap situation for way too long already. There was no incentive for them to change anything. About time somebody did something about it.
I'm looking forward to a smoother flight, a 3 year change cycle (as and when approved) and world peace. All with a cheaper strap! Hurrah!
Let's be honest: Bell have been milking the strap situation for way too long already. There was no incentive for them to change anything. About time somebody did something about it.
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I've been flying an IFR equipped 206L-1 with the SFENA autopilot/ministab/FCS kit for the past few days. Looking for a little system knowledge...
Could anyone explain the individual roles of the 3 main stabilisation parts: Ministab, Force Trim (and auto trim), and Autopilot, and the relationship of how they interlink?
One thing that is very noticeable is that if the auto pilot is engaged but the force-trim is not indicated as central in pitch and roll (2 axis autopilot) then the autopilot often doesn't capture the intended heading or attitude, and one must depress the force trim release, centre the indications, and then try again. I'm trying to get my head around the role of each unit individually and how they interconnect, to avoid mishaps when engaging the autopilot (which seems to happen most following a manual instrument approach, having utilised the force trim release quite a lot, and when going around in cloud with enough to be doing without incorrect headings and attitudes). Is it simply the case that you must check the force trim is centred manually (with the release button and cyclic inputs) each time before engaging the autopilot?
Thanks
Could anyone explain the individual roles of the 3 main stabilisation parts: Ministab, Force Trim (and auto trim), and Autopilot, and the relationship of how they interlink?
One thing that is very noticeable is that if the auto pilot is engaged but the force-trim is not indicated as central in pitch and roll (2 axis autopilot) then the autopilot often doesn't capture the intended heading or attitude, and one must depress the force trim release, centre the indications, and then try again. I'm trying to get my head around the role of each unit individually and how they interconnect, to avoid mishaps when engaging the autopilot (which seems to happen most following a manual instrument approach, having utilised the force trim release quite a lot, and when going around in cloud with enough to be doing without incorrect headings and attitudes). Is it simply the case that you must check the force trim is centred manually (with the release button and cyclic inputs) each time before engaging the autopilot?
Thanks
We use the Van Horn tail rotor blades on almost all our ships and love them. 5000 hour life limit vs 2500 for the bell blades for a few thousand dollars more. Only issue we have found was one blade had a feathering bearing worn past limits at around 2500 hours TIS. Great support from van horn they sold us the bearing and loaned us the tooling to change the bearing and in about an hour we were back in the air making money.
Last edited by helofixer; 23rd Oct 2012 at 15:23.
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Bell 206 Jet Ranger Silver Filigree Display Model
Home of Chaparral Systems
Please take a look at the picture on my home page at the link above.
I flew OH-58A,C & D during my career in the Army and have recently come across this silver filigree presentation model of what appears to be a 206B that may have been made (the model) in Turkey.
I have no clue to its original but wondered if any of you might have ever seen it or may know anything about it?
Thanks,
mike
Please take a look at the picture on my home page at the link above.
I flew OH-58A,C & D during my career in the Army and have recently come across this silver filigree presentation model of what appears to be a 206B that may have been made (the model) in Turkey.
I have no clue to its original but wondered if any of you might have ever seen it or may know anything about it?
Thanks,
mike
Starter motor on shutdown Bell 206
Just a quick question regarding use of starter on shutdown of 206. I know in the emergency procedure section of the flight manual it states that in the event of an engine hot start/shutdown the throttle should be closed, fuel valve off and crank the starter until TOT stabilizes at a normal temp. Now my question is what are the implications for the engine, if any, if you do use the starter, if needed or inadvertently, on shutdown? As in you close the throttle but you notice the TOT rises again so you shut off fuel valve and crank starter. Does the cranking of the starter do any damage to the engine itself when used in this capacity? Thanks.
RP
RP
the answer to your question, in a word, is no. Using the starter to continue the airflow through the engine does not damage the engine. I suppose if it was necessary to keep it going for an unusual amount of time you might overheat the starter/generator but that would be a bit of a stretch.
After shutdown, the TOT goes down to about 300 degrees, but once the N1 reaches zero, the temperature goes up again - there is no cooling airflow, so the hot metal heats up the air in the turbine area. It will slowly rise above 400 again.
This is normal.
It is only if there is a rise above about 450 or the rise is very rapid that you would do a cooling run. Remember to pull the igniter C/B to save some strain on the battery, and it also stops ignition of any residual fuel in the can.
This is normal.
It is only if there is a rise above about 450 or the rise is very rapid that you would do a cooling run. Remember to pull the igniter C/B to save some strain on the battery, and it also stops ignition of any residual fuel in the can.