Stuck bolt.
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Stuck bolt.
I have a stuck bolt on our aircraft, and need to get some penetrant oil such as Kroil or Liquid Wrench. It seems impossible to come by in the UK. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Loctite do a product called Freeze and Release, its number is 8040. I've used it and its very good. Web site is www.loctite.co.uk or phone number is 01442 418305. Guy by the name of Richard Hassle is a tech rep I think.
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wd40 or mouse milk. try adams aviation for the latter or LAS
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The bolt holds the noseleg to the engine frame and is in a very tight spot.
We do not have to use the bolt again, but it can not be cut / drilled / welded without taking the engine off.
I have tried Plus Gas with no effect, so Mouse Milk unlikely to help. It is so awkward to get at, that heating / cooling will be very tricky.
I have been advised to use a tapered fork / rod end splitter to lift the bolt out. Will try that next if I can get my hands on one.
We do not have to use the bolt again, but it can not be cut / drilled / welded without taking the engine off.
I have tried Plus Gas with no effect, so Mouse Milk unlikely to help. It is so awkward to get at, that heating / cooling will be very tricky.
I have been advised to use a tapered fork / rod end splitter to lift the bolt out. Will try that next if I can get my hands on one.
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I will add have you deflated the oleo? as a lot of these bolts hold the end caps in the strut so you may have pressure in the strut forcing the cap against the bolt.
You might try drifting it to see if it will move, BUT PUT A HEAVY WEIGHT on the other side of the mount to absorb the energy.. only do this if you know what you are doing....
another way if you can get it in is pop something like a bigger socket over the head and use something like a big c clamp to press it out into the socket...
Again as said what aircraft? so we can get a better idea to help you........
You might try drifting it to see if it will move, BUT PUT A HEAVY WEIGHT on the other side of the mount to absorb the energy.. only do this if you know what you are doing....
another way if you can get it in is pop something like a bigger socket over the head and use something like a big c clamp to press it out into the socket...
Again as said what aircraft? so we can get a better idea to help you........
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The aircraft is a vans RV9, so no complicated oleos etc.
The nut is off the bolt, but the bolt is still wedged in. The head is in good condition.
We have taken the weight of the noseleg but that does not help.
From a common sence point of view, either the tie rod end splitter method to lift it out or a c clamp to push it out have to be the best options at this point.
Further discussion and diagram here:
http://forums.flyer.co.uk/viewtopic....33965&start=15
The nut is off the bolt, but the bolt is still wedged in. The head is in good condition.
We have taken the weight of the noseleg but that does not help.
From a common sence point of view, either the tie rod end splitter method to lift it out or a c clamp to push it out have to be the best options at this point.
Further discussion and diagram here:
http://forums.flyer.co.uk/viewtopic....33965&start=15
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Brace the whole thing so it won't move. Take the weight.
Drill a hole through it, start with 1/16 and work your way up. Use an angle drill if no access.
Then start with a brass 1/4 drift (can be as long as you want) and hammer it out, and work your way up to a rivet gun.
Hint! grease the new bolt!
Drill a hole through it, start with 1/16 and work your way up. Use an angle drill if no access.
Then start with a brass 1/4 drift (can be as long as you want) and hammer it out, and work your way up to a rivet gun.
Hint! grease the new bolt!
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You say you have the nut off, which means you have some threaded portion sticking out. Is there any way you can get a bearing press on there? That's a good way to shift the fin or stabiliser attachment bolts on a large aeroplane.
A steady, sustained thrust is always better than just hammering away at the thing and there's less risk of slipping off and damaging something. ( As the actress said to the bishop
)
A steady, sustained thrust is always better than just hammering away at the thing and there's less risk of slipping off and damaging something. ( As the actress said to the bishop
)
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Could the thread inside the, clearly, tight hole be binding and gripping it in place? Will the bolt rotate and screw out on the thread. It will score the hole and need polishing out but it's likely to be scored anyway.
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The bolt will turn about 1/4 of a turn so is not completely seized.
To drill it out, we would have to take the engine off, in which case we could just hammer it out. The amin problem here is access. There is none, in line with the bolt.
Will let you know how the tie / rod end splitter works.
To drill it out, we would have to take the engine off, in which case we could just hammer it out. The amin problem here is access. There is none, in line with the bolt.
Will let you know how the tie / rod end splitter works.
I'm inclined to think the bolt is bent, as you say you can turn it a little. It it were me, I'd remove the engine and drill the bolt out in steps. An AN5 bolt is only 5/16" diameter: start off with a 1/8" pilot drill and work your way up - 5/32", 3/16", 9/64" etc, keeping the speed down as the drills get bigger.
I really wouldn't hammer it out... damage could be expensive to rectify.
I really wouldn't hammer it out... damage could be expensive to rectify.
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as it's a tapered bolt, is the hole it goes in tapered?
if so as the bolt has been fitted upside down, then I would suggest both the fitting and the bolt are (technically speaking) knackered.
if not then ignore me and I'll go away.
Once had to remove a tapered bolt from a 747 wing to spar joint in no2 main tank (fitted the right way round) I think it took us 2 days to get it out. 10x rivet gun wouldn't shift it. In the end drilled it down the middle so that it collapsed inwards when using the rivet gun, or was it a cattle stunner as boeing suggested!
if so as the bolt has been fitted upside down, then I would suggest both the fitting and the bolt are (technically speaking) knackered.
if not then ignore me and I'll go away.
Once had to remove a tapered bolt from a 747 wing to spar joint in no2 main tank (fitted the right way round) I think it took us 2 days to get it out. 10x rivet gun wouldn't shift it. In the end drilled it down the middle so that it collapsed inwards when using the rivet gun, or was it a cattle stunner as boeing suggested!
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Hello justinmg.
Had the same problem a few weeks ago, repairing a friends RV9A. His bolt was fitted the correct way i.e. bolt head down. Problem was, the bolt would only turn about 1/4 turn in situ. Didn't want to move other than that. Engine out (only about 1 hour) gave the best access. The bolt was unreal. It was a pukka AN bolt, correct size. Problem was, it was Z shaped, hence the jam. Going by what you are saying, it might be a bit of a common problem. Perhaps the amplified side loads the nosewheel transmits up to the mount bolt are too much for the rather small bolt to accept in sheer.
We got this one out with hammer and copper drift. But, as I said earlier, it was fitted the correct way. You may have to pull the engine, cut the head off the bolt, and drift it through.
Good luck and please post your end result, perhaps with a picture.
camlobe
Had the same problem a few weeks ago, repairing a friends RV9A. His bolt was fitted the correct way i.e. bolt head down. Problem was, the bolt would only turn about 1/4 turn in situ. Didn't want to move other than that. Engine out (only about 1 hour) gave the best access. The bolt was unreal. It was a pukka AN bolt, correct size. Problem was, it was Z shaped, hence the jam. Going by what you are saying, it might be a bit of a common problem. Perhaps the amplified side loads the nosewheel transmits up to the mount bolt are too much for the rather small bolt to accept in sheer.
We got this one out with hammer and copper drift. But, as I said earlier, it was fitted the correct way. You may have to pull the engine, cut the head off the bolt, and drift it through.
Good luck and please post your end result, perhaps with a picture.
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Looking at your sketch the structure looks a bit delicate for the heavy removal methods, especially if the bolt is bent, time spent in preparation is not wasted, as if you wreck the tube its engine out anyway.
Suggest removing the engine and carefully drilling the centre out the bolt going up 1/16 at a time as previously recomended, heat is a good trick, use a heat gun for a long time to give a good soak, and a sharp tap should do it, if the bolt is bent then don't use too much force as you may crack the tube at the hole area, if you have access then you could use a series of expanding reamers to ensure that you remove the bolt shank material without damaging the tube hole, as always with these tricky jobs, take your time, if it takes all day to get it out and you haven't caused further damage then its a good job,
good luck,
om15
Suggest removing the engine and carefully drilling the centre out the bolt going up 1/16 at a time as previously recomended, heat is a good trick, use a heat gun for a long time to give a good soak, and a sharp tap should do it, if the bolt is bent then don't use too much force as you may crack the tube at the hole area, if you have access then you could use a series of expanding reamers to ensure that you remove the bolt shank material without damaging the tube hole, as always with these tricky jobs, take your time, if it takes all day to get it out and you haven't caused further damage then its a good job,
good luck,
om15
