Bridge Cameras
Thread Starter
Bridge Cameras
Having recently developed a tremble in my hands due to a health issue, I am finding it almost impossible to take any decent shots with my ancient SLR and 400 zoom lens.
As I only want to take static and slow moving aircraft could anyone please give me an opinion on Bridge cameras.Thanks.
As I only want to take static and slow moving aircraft could anyone please give me an opinion on Bridge cameras.Thanks.
As I only want to take static and slow moving aircraft could anyone please give me an opinion on Bridge cameras.
That they shouldn't have so many on the M25?
Sorry, Arthur. I couldn't resist, and I just hope that someone much better informed comes up with the right answer, both medically and photographically.
That they shouldn't have so many on the M25?
Sorry, Arthur. I couldn't resist, and I just hope that someone much better informed comes up with the right answer, both medically and photographically.
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Hi Arthur, it depends on what kind of price you want to pay, I have just moved from bridge camera's to DSLR, If you are looking for a decent cheap bridge camera I can recommend the Samsung WB100 for under £100, I used to have one until I bought my Canon DSLR, they are great cameras, if you want to pay a little more try the Panasonic Lumix DMC -LZ30E, As I say it depends on the price you want to pay and also things like optical zoom.
If I can be of any help please PM me, I have had several bridge cameras in the last few years.
If I can be of any help please PM me, I have had several bridge cameras in the last few years.
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Ive just bought a Fuji HS50 EXR- and so far have been really pleased with it.
Its got an amazing 42 x zoom and all sorts of other useful benefits -too long to go into here.
Have up to now used a Canon EOS 350d and 300 mm lens for aircraft photography and the new bridge camera is in my opinion much better so far-at least for my amateur needs?
Its got an amazing 42 x zoom and all sorts of other useful benefits -too long to go into here.
Have up to now used a Canon EOS 350d and 300 mm lens for aircraft photography and the new bridge camera is in my opinion much better so far-at least for my amateur needs?
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Arthur, just a separate thought, a monopod with a quick attach system for your camera might help with reducing your tremble. My camera kit regularly includes a monopod.
Last edited by srobarts; 15th Sep 2013 at 21:12. Reason: typo
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I lost my Nikon DSLR and lenses to my younger daughter in pursuance of her degree studies ...
That left me with just my Canon Powershot SX220HS compact which is without doubt an excellent camera, however it lacks a viewfinder which can be a limiting factor when taking pictures of aircraft (particularly if using/needing high levels of zoom and/or in very bright conditions).
Not being able to justify the cost of a replacement Nikon outfit I decided to try a Fuji Finepix 240SL, it has more optical zoom power and it has an electronic viewfinder; but I have to admit that overall it is not an adequate substitute for a decent DSLR ... The electronic view finder is 'nearly' OK to help with framing shots in long zoom and high sunlight environments, but over all the cameras program ability and image stabilization ability is not that good.
So the sad truth is there is no getting away from the value of a good DSLR with a long lens .... if I want decent pictures I know that's what I have to buy (again!)
That left me with just my Canon Powershot SX220HS compact which is without doubt an excellent camera, however it lacks a viewfinder which can be a limiting factor when taking pictures of aircraft (particularly if using/needing high levels of zoom and/or in very bright conditions).
Not being able to justify the cost of a replacement Nikon outfit I decided to try a Fuji Finepix 240SL, it has more optical zoom power and it has an electronic viewfinder; but I have to admit that overall it is not an adequate substitute for a decent DSLR ... The electronic view finder is 'nearly' OK to help with framing shots in long zoom and high sunlight environments, but over all the cameras program ability and image stabilization ability is not that good.
So the sad truth is there is no getting away from the value of a good DSLR with a long lens .... if I want decent pictures I know that's what I have to buy (again!)
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agreed...in order of importance i'd say modern dslr with image stabilisation (unless you can find a cheaper camera with a similar sized sensor)
mono/tripod
shorter/faster lenses
or super expensive long but still fast lenses.
a near bottom of the range modern dslr is still a fine piece of equipment and may be cheaper than a bridge camera.
a bridge camera will most likely have a small sensor (never a good thing) and the glass is unlikely to be fast.
however if you can find a decent sized sensor and a decent speed lens in a bridge camera thats probably also going to be a very nice camera.
mono/tripod
shorter/faster lenses
or super expensive long but still fast lenses.
a near bottom of the range modern dslr is still a fine piece of equipment and may be cheaper than a bridge camera.
a bridge camera will most likely have a small sensor (never a good thing) and the glass is unlikely to be fast.
however if you can find a decent sized sensor and a decent speed lens in a bridge camera thats probably also going to be a very nice camera.
Last edited by s e t h; 16th Sep 2013 at 19:47.
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tri-pod, with a good pan/tilt head, even think about a remote/cable shutter release.
a 400mm lense will exagerate any movement when hand held, maybe a shorter lense.
You can also up the shutter speeds/iso that will help.
a 400mm lense will exagerate any movement when hand held, maybe a shorter lense.
You can also up the shutter speeds/iso that will help.
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Have a look at the Canon SX 30 /40 /50 and the SX 240HS.
The former are true bridge cameras with long lenses and the latter is a a compact with a long zoom.
The former are true bridge cameras with long lenses and the latter is a a compact with a long zoom.
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I don't hand-hold well below certain shutter speeds now, so I simply reprogrammed the camera not to go below them across the focal range. In practice, it means I'm shooting at higher ISOs. Not all cameras have this, but you can do something similar by shifting in Program mode.
Also, as others have said, tripod and remote release.
Also also, micro 4/3 stuff is way lighter.
And always image stabilization (remembering to turn off on a tripod, or choose a tripod-specific setting depending on your camera).
Also, as others have said, tripod and remote release.
Also also, micro 4/3 stuff is way lighter.
And always image stabilization (remembering to turn off on a tripod, or choose a tripod-specific setting depending on your camera).
Last edited by Bushfiva; 17th Sep 2013 at 13:15.
Thread Starter
Thankyou all very much for your help.I shall give the matter great consideration, although being notoriously tight with money that probably means the cheapest.
If I do buy one I will let you know my opinion.
If I do buy one I will let you know my opinion.
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There is another possible very cheap and simple solution: a long loop of cord or webbing with a tripod bolt set in it. Screw in bolt, put both feet through the loop, spread your legs and push the camera upwards to form a tight triangle of cord with the camera at the apex. If you get the length right (have adjustment!) then your camera and body are both held in position but can still follow action.
It does not work for all people or situations but always worth trying and keeping one in your bag ... very light and portable!
It does not work for all people or situations but always worth trying and keeping one in your bag ... very light and portable!
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Ihave several cameras. I have a Nikon D7000 with all the lenses....
I have a Nikon S400 compact....
and I have a Fujifilm HS10 bridge camera. It is a LOT lighter than the D7000 and at 10.3 megapixels it's not too bad.
Upside 30x zoom with a good I S
Downside is lack of [true] manual control. E g, you can't go to a slow shutter and small aperture for a waterfall, but with software, you can twiddle it.
Possibly a D40[ish] with a 18-55 lens may be a better option.
Good luck
I have a Nikon S400 compact....
and I have a Fujifilm HS10 bridge camera. It is a LOT lighter than the D7000 and at 10.3 megapixels it's not too bad.
Upside 30x zoom with a good I S
Downside is lack of [true] manual control. E g, you can't go to a slow shutter and small aperture for a waterfall, but with software, you can twiddle it.
Possibly a D40[ish] with a 18-55 lens may be a better option.
Good luck
A bit more help please.
A bit more help please.
For daughter who wants to take up photography as a hobby. She wants to move on from her current Canon Ixus 110 Compact, and her Samsung Galaxy S4 which has a decent camera included.
Opinions welcome on whether to go for a "starter" DSLR such as a Canon EOS 100D, or to start with a much better Compact, such as the Pana TZ 40.
What is the best way for her to find out if photography is the hobby for her??
She has rejected my OM1. (Don't blame her as she needs to practice lots and the OM1 came out in the time of the mangle)
For daughter who wants to take up photography as a hobby. She wants to move on from her current Canon Ixus 110 Compact, and her Samsung Galaxy S4 which has a decent camera included.
Opinions welcome on whether to go for a "starter" DSLR such as a Canon EOS 100D, or to start with a much better Compact, such as the Pana TZ 40.
What is the best way for her to find out if photography is the hobby for her??
She has rejected my OM1. (Don't blame her as she needs to practice lots and the OM1 came out in the time of the mangle)
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Fine camera, the OM-1. She was right to reject it as it's an antique from an obsolete photo technology.
I'd suggest a micro 4/3 camera such as an E-M1 (if it has to look like a DSLR), Pen EP-5 or similar: compact, good quality, flexibility. Panasonic also has outstanding kit. You don't need to cover a vast zoom range: a good photographer can take a good photo with whatever's to hand.
And with respect to the latter, the best camera is the one that is always with you. No point in buying something that is too heavy to carry fully-configured, and too heavy to use.
The reason I'd choose a micro 4/3 over some of the really good superzooms right now, is that a micro 4/3 with a pancake lens will still just about fit in a pocket. A superzoom won't.
I have a stupid amount of kit, but these days I just take a body and a single lens, and that dictates the style of the day's photos. They all come out fine, whichever lens I use. As I said, a good photographer will always get a shot, but not if the camera isn't with them.
The only caveat I would add is: if your daughter is into still life, commercial photography etc., then it's down to good tripods, good lighting, good remote triggers etc. Plus software to de-brand anything she takes a pic of.
Edited to add: for breaking news, the snobbery has gone and iPhone & friends are perfectly acceptable.
Edited edited: I'm a sucker for the small Ricohs. Just lovely. but my cash comes from Nikon (but only because that's what I have).
I'd suggest a micro 4/3 camera such as an E-M1 (if it has to look like a DSLR), Pen EP-5 or similar: compact, good quality, flexibility. Panasonic also has outstanding kit. You don't need to cover a vast zoom range: a good photographer can take a good photo with whatever's to hand.
And with respect to the latter, the best camera is the one that is always with you. No point in buying something that is too heavy to carry fully-configured, and too heavy to use.
The reason I'd choose a micro 4/3 over some of the really good superzooms right now, is that a micro 4/3 with a pancake lens will still just about fit in a pocket. A superzoom won't.
I have a stupid amount of kit, but these days I just take a body and a single lens, and that dictates the style of the day's photos. They all come out fine, whichever lens I use. As I said, a good photographer will always get a shot, but not if the camera isn't with them.
The only caveat I would add is: if your daughter is into still life, commercial photography etc., then it's down to good tripods, good lighting, good remote triggers etc. Plus software to de-brand anything she takes a pic of.
Edited to add: for breaking news, the snobbery has gone and iPhone & friends are perfectly acceptable.
Edited edited: I'm a sucker for the small Ricohs. Just lovely. but my cash comes from Nikon (but only because that's what I have).
Last edited by Bushfiva; 9th Oct 2013 at 11:57.
Thanks. Your point about needing a camera that is always with you is a great point.
Plus, as it is something of an experiment, I'll try to keep her ambitions down to circa £500, rather than 1,000 or more!
Plus, as it is something of an experiment, I'll try to keep her ambitions down to circa £500, rather than 1,000 or more!
Last edited by Ancient Observer; 9th Oct 2013 at 13:22.
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I went from a Bridge Camera to a DSLR as the continuous frame speed on the Bridge was too slow (1 FPS).
Recently bought a new later model DSLR (Canon 600D) after gaining experiance with a 1000D (Ancient, that's for sale with lenses etc if your daughter wants a cheap start)
Would I go back? I doubt it owing to the number of accesories I have for the DSLRs
Alsp though the DSLR is nevr far away I always carry a compact (Canon A1300) in the car, useful to put in my pocket for events as well. Chose this one as it has an optical view finder which I prefer
Recently bought a new later model DSLR (Canon 600D) after gaining experiance with a 1000D (Ancient, that's for sale with lenses etc if your daughter wants a cheap start)
Would I go back? I doubt it owing to the number of accesories I have for the DSLRs
Alsp though the DSLR is nevr far away I always carry a compact (Canon A1300) in the car, useful to put in my pocket for events as well. Chose this one as it has an optical view finder which I prefer
Last edited by west lakes; 9th Oct 2013 at 13:31.
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AO, people get great pics with cameras costing almost nothing. Don't let anyone persuade you there's a minimum entry point. The eye is everything, the camera is simply an enabling technology.