The bits wot you have to take with you

[treadigraph]

Don't go for very fast shutter speeds if shooting prop driven aircraft - stationery props look a bit odd! Off hand think I use 1/250th...

[jumpseater]

Read the manual. I'd Play with it on Auto to start with to get the feel of it. Read the manual. To get shots like Alans you will need a lens of 300mm or more to fill the frame, so if you've got a short zoom of 18-55 or something like that don't be dissapointed with your initial results. Try shooting trains to start with, they move in a linear plane and are quite fast. You're not wasting film so you can afford to do this sort of stuff to get to know it. itll teach you anticipation and framing of a fast moving object. Cars are good on the motorway too. for props and helis' use about 125th of a second shutter speed, faster than that and you risk 'stopping the blades'. Read the manual. Oh and did I mention?, read the manual

[Conan the Librarian]

If you shoot jpg, then consider a touch of exposure compensation. About half a stop for starters... But better that that, shoot RAW if you can and fix it all afterwards in Photoshop or similar.

Shoot, shoot, shoot. The law of averages should send you home with a few keepers.

Look at your EXIF information and learn from it after the event.

Above all, enjoy yourself.


Conan

[eal401]

Thanks for the tips guys.

Now...where's that manual......

[PPRuNe Pop]

BUT......................remember to post pics at 640x480 please.

[PPRuNe Pop]

There seems to be a problem with one or two people who think that they should show their pictures at the largest size that suits them.

The problem we have with that is that a large picture will expand that page - and the dialogue - to an extreme that means you have scroll back and forth to see the pictures and the words. That frankly is a drag.

'Man on the Fence' has it down to a fine art and his pics are brilliantly displayed without expanding the page. 'Duxford Eagles' does the same.

This is a pic given to me by one of the Herc guys at Lyneham. The size is actually 768 x 512. It is marginally oversize but re-sizing to 750 x 500 fits the page.





This another with a size of 640x333



This can be adjusted up to 700 x 500 and all that is required.

If you want some advice on how to present your pics I suggest you contact either of the two gents I mentioned above. I hope I am sure that they will not mind giving you a tip or two. Go over to Aircraft History and Nostalgia for their contact details.

[visibility3miles]

Stunning photo PPRuNePop!

Try asking over at www.photo.net

With a digital camera, there is a delay between pressing the button and the camera taking the photo, so press the button part way to get the range (presumably the sky or any distant object will do) before the action that you want to capture occurs.

Many digital cameras have a multi-photo mode, so that may be best.

I'm also in the "where's the manual" mode of digital photgraphy.

P.S., photo.net asks a limit of 800 x 600 pixels max for the photos posted there, to avoid choking their computer servers.

[Conan the Librarian]

If you have lag, you have a piont and shoot. It is a travesty, but the manufacturers are after an easy "snapshot " market. I have spent a fortune finding by experience, that a salesman lies.

I now sit with a Nikon D70 DSLR and for the first time, get what I want.

Conan

[treadigraph]

For resizing and colour correction help, feel free to drop me a PM as well and aleviate my drab day time existance!

[captain cumulonimbus]

Cameras for spotting-advice

Hi all,

Am looking to get a relatively good digital camera for spotting,not TOO expensive but good with a decent zoom.What can you chaps recommend?

Thanks!

[Conan the Librarian]

All depends what you want and what you expect. Try this.

http://www.dpreview.com/


Conan

[flash8]

You could do far far worse than a Panasonic LUMIX FZ5 or other in the FZ series (FZ2, 10,20?)

The 5-Megapixel FZ5 has an optically stabilised fast (f2.8-3.3) optical 12X (420mm SLR equivalent) Zoom SUPERB for getting shots when you are some distance away.

The optical stabilisation feature is superb when shooting at the 420mm end... always gives you great SHARP shots

Autofocus is near SLR quality and the camera is ULTRA compact.

It isn't expensive either - around $350 in the states, not sure about elsewhere.

dpreview rated it as excellent, as does every other site.

I would go as far to say this camera is almost impossible to beat unless you have a few thousand bucks to spend on a DSLR and lens (and that would be at least 3 maybe much more in size and bulk).

I have been VERY happy with mine...


Hope this helps.

PS. The 12X Zoom really gets those babys close!

[EIDW Spotter]

Spotting Equipment

Im Planning this year to update the current binoculars I currently use to note down registration etc, what would people advise? Make model

Any assistance appreciated.

[HEATHROW DIRECTOR]

How much are you prepared to spend? Binoculars are like cameras, hi-fi, TV, motor cars, etc. Pay small cash and you get junk. All my life I have preferred powerful glasses - I started with Krauss 16x50 in 1961 and they lasted me until the mid-90s and travelled around the world several times. I then replaced them with Zeiss 15x60 and they too have travelled the world. Quite simply, they are superb. I use bins for bird-watching, aircraft spotting and general observation and would never accept anything smaller for general use. My wife and I also have Opticron 10x50 for close-in bird and butterfly watching, but they are not in the same league as my Zeiss. You can get 12x Opticrons and this might be a good option. We also have Minolta 10x25 mini-binoculars, which are outstanding but not really suitable for long-distance work. Lastly we also use telescopes for birding and aircraft spotting - I have a 40x Optolyth and my wife has a 60x Svarowski. Do remember thast ideally the object glass should be at least 4x the magnification for best light transmission. Eg 10x50 would be fine but 20x40 would be rubbish.
If you can afford it, go for Zeiss or Leica. If you can't go for Opticron..

[ABZSpotter]

As LHR Director says, it depends on how much you want to spend. I recently bought a pair of Canon 18x50 binoculars with Image Stabilisation (IS). They are not cheap, but they are fantastic, especially when trying to get that awkward one at a distance or at an angle. They dramatically reduce the shake that you can get when holding binos for a time

Depending on where you purchase, the price varies between about £600-1100. They use two AA batteries and are a bit battery hungry if you use the IS all the time. However, even without the IS on, the binoculars are very good. I wouldn't go on a spotting trip without them now.

It's worth doing an internet search to check out the other models as well which may be more suitable to you.

However, I still have my Nikon mini-zoom binos for use when I am flying anywhere, as using big binos may not be acceptable at some airport terminals around the world.

[superspotter]

Have to agree with ABZ here the Canon IS 18X50's are pretty good, had mine for about two years now and have kept Duracell in business!! The only downside to them are the fact they are as unwieldy and about as heavy as a house brick but the optics are pretty good however I have hankered after a pair of Swarovski 10X40 EL binoculars for ages and I was playing with a pair today and I MUST buy a pair!! They are simply superb, as good as Leica and a little cheaper at £899 Question is, do I part exchange my Canons or keep both of them?? what a dilemma............

[skiddyiom]

That is a LOT of money to splash out for a pair of Binoculars! I'll stick to my old Hilkinson Pancratic 'pole! 38yrs old and still going strong! Besides, I spend enough on camera equipment without the added expense!

Still, it would be nice to get a decent pair one day - need a lottery win at that sort of price though!

skiddy

[Mogget]

The equipment that I have my own eyes on at the moment is the Panasonic NVGS500B MiniDV camcorder, and that optical image stabilisation is the most important aspect. It must be considerably better than the Steady Shot feature of my current Sony DCR-TRV230E.

[Raymond Ginardon]

Cockpit shots - what camera?

Ladies/Gents,

Apologies for perhaps a slightly 'off topic' intrusion into your forum, but I rather get the impression that there may be those amongst you who are very well versed in photography (indeed I receive many superb photos from your general direction and am grateful for them).

My question is this: I am searching for a compact (as small as possible due to 'fitting' limitations), digital camera that has (or has the option for) a wireless remote control to activate the shutter. My quest has been met by "uh?" type stares at most of the camera shops - wondered if anyone might have some info or be able to point me in a sensible direction?

Kind regards,

Ray :-)

[chiglet]

Hi Ray,
What type of shot do you want? "Full" cockpit, LHS Panel, RHS Panel? With or without FDC? Do you have access to the Flight Deck? Why a "remote" shutter release?
Let's be honest...YOU go towards the FD with a "Remote Activated Device".. I hope you like Hospital/Prison food
Most a/c manufacturers have cockpit photos on their websites
watp,iktch