Flightsim-pilot questions (Merged)
"Just a pilot"
The flag may, or may not, drop in the event of a attitude indicator failure. Failures have occurred where the instrument's failure wasn't "flagged". I've seen them "wander" from proper orientation, gradually increasing diversion from proper orientation without a flag. Crosscheck!
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Wouldn't it be pretty unusual NOT to see one in a helicopter? Any sort of instrument flying (including getting out of a cloud that crept up and pounced on you) would be pretty difficult without an AH...
The gyro seems to wander a lot as it spins up or down (due to the acceleration causing unbalanced forces, I guess), so being able to center it in some way before taking off is rather useful.
The gyro seems to wander a lot as it spins up or down (due to the acceleration causing unbalanced forces, I guess), so being able to center it in some way before taking off is rather useful.
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Buttons on the collective
I notice that there are some buttons on the cyclic, and wonder what they are typically there to do.
I am guessing that one would be the transmit button, and a hat would be to move a light or camera. Often there is a red button, in addition to a transmit button. Have no clue what that might be.
Patrick
I am guessing that one would be the transmit button, and a hat would be to move a light or camera. Often there is a red button, in addition to a transmit button. Have no clue what that might be.
Patrick
Different aircraft have different setups Patrick.
A stock UH-1 Huey would have five switches on the cyclic grip.
A two stage intercom/radio transmit switch that looks like a trigger on the front side of the grip generally operated by your index finger. A push button switch on the top left edge of the grip for the Force Trim release and operated by your thumb. A push button switch on the left side midway on the grip which had no function, also operated by your thumb. A push button switch at the lower left side front of the grip which operated the external cargo hook release, operated by you Little finger. The last switch was the "coolie hat" which operated the rescue hoist as a backup to the crewman's hoist control in the cabin.
The Huey collective lever had six switches. Engine start trigger under the throttle, engine idle detent switch on top of the collective. Two landing light switches, searchlight switch, a coolie hat for steering the search light, and a Nr RPM control switch. The landing light switch turned the light on and a second switch moved it from pointing straight down to slightly above horizontal, the searchlight switch turned the searchlight on/off and retracted it.
Modern helicopters have an altogether different array of switches.
A stock UH-1 Huey would have five switches on the cyclic grip.
A two stage intercom/radio transmit switch that looks like a trigger on the front side of the grip generally operated by your index finger. A push button switch on the top left edge of the grip for the Force Trim release and operated by your thumb. A push button switch on the left side midway on the grip which had no function, also operated by your thumb. A push button switch at the lower left side front of the grip which operated the external cargo hook release, operated by you Little finger. The last switch was the "coolie hat" which operated the rescue hoist as a backup to the crewman's hoist control in the cabin.
The Huey collective lever had six switches. Engine start trigger under the throttle, engine idle detent switch on top of the collective. Two landing light switches, searchlight switch, a coolie hat for steering the search light, and a Nr RPM control switch. The landing light switch turned the light on and a second switch moved it from pointing straight down to slightly above horizontal, the searchlight switch turned the searchlight on/off and retracted it.
Modern helicopters have an altogether different array of switches.
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In most electromechanical instruments, the flag is little more than a confirmation of power.
Actually we've been seeing a lot recently of what Devil has been describing. It's often caused by a resonnance that sets up that sets up on the biasing mechanism (i.e. the mercury starts bouncing around in the switch at exactly the right frequency) and the horizon starts to slowly roll or pitch. It's usually tied to a particular gyro unit and a praticular aircraft configuration (High skids, low skids, FLIR hanging out the front, etc.) And it's usually triggered at a certain speed. We've seen it change with different manufacturing lots on the same model of gyro: You have a model that's worked in the helo for years, then you get a new one and it rolls off. Replace it two or three times and it still rolls off. Swap the gyro into a different aircraft and it works fine. I think part of it has to do with parts obsolescence or changes in manufacture that have come in as the number of electro-mechanical instrument manufacturers dwindles.
Anyway, if you've recently changed out a unit or had some new gear glued to the outside of your helo, or to your instrument panel, watch for it.
Avnx EO
Actually we've been seeing a lot recently of what Devil has been describing. It's often caused by a resonnance that sets up that sets up on the biasing mechanism (i.e. the mercury starts bouncing around in the switch at exactly the right frequency) and the horizon starts to slowly roll or pitch. It's usually tied to a particular gyro unit and a praticular aircraft configuration (High skids, low skids, FLIR hanging out the front, etc.) And it's usually triggered at a certain speed. We've seen it change with different manufacturing lots on the same model of gyro: You have a model that's worked in the helo for years, then you get a new one and it rolls off. Replace it two or three times and it still rolls off. Swap the gyro into a different aircraft and it works fine. I think part of it has to do with parts obsolescence or changes in manufacture that have come in as the number of electro-mechanical instrument manufacturers dwindles.
Anyway, if you've recently changed out a unit or had some new gear glued to the outside of your helo, or to your instrument panel, watch for it.
Avnx EO
Patrick,
I look forward to the questions when you start your S-92 sim project; that should keep us busy for a while!!!
Seriously, a harmless joke and I admire your ingenuity with what you are achieving so far, well done
I look forward to the questions when you start your S-92 sim project; that should keep us busy for a while!!!
Seriously, a harmless joke and I admire your ingenuity with what you are achieving so far, well done
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SASLess, thanks for the info. It was the force trim release I was forgeting that was driving me crazy.
I am guessing that a "two-stage" intercom/radio transmit switch would work by depressing it to the first point to activate the intercom and fully to activate the radio (or the other way around).
212Man, thanks for your humor and praise. If you like you can always check on the latest at my site: http://picasaweb.google.com/benchmark.avionics where I post public pictures of gauges and the model as I finish them. Right now as I'm working on the instruments, the gauges are what are getting updated everyday.
This project has taken on a life of it's own as I've learned more about a helicopter that I've never flown, or even been in, than I ever imagined. When I was in the Army I was ferried around on and jumped from many of them, but never imagined the fun of flying them. Guess I was having fun just riding on them.
It has been a joy learning so much about them, and one day I hope to actually learn to fly a real one. I do appreciate you all putting up with my unending questions.
As I learn more, the next project will be easier.
Patrick
I am guessing that a "two-stage" intercom/radio transmit switch would work by depressing it to the first point to activate the intercom and fully to activate the radio (or the other way around).
212Man, thanks for your humor and praise. If you like you can always check on the latest at my site: http://picasaweb.google.com/benchmark.avionics where I post public pictures of gauges and the model as I finish them. Right now as I'm working on the instruments, the gauges are what are getting updated everyday.
This project has taken on a life of it's own as I've learned more about a helicopter that I've never flown, or even been in, than I ever imagined. When I was in the Army I was ferried around on and jumped from many of them, but never imagined the fun of flying them. Guess I was having fun just riding on them.
It has been a joy learning so much about them, and one day I hope to actually learn to fly a real one. I do appreciate you all putting up with my unending questions.
As I learn more, the next project will be easier.
Patrick
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Which buttons are you inquiring about - on the collective or cyclic? The title says one, your question another. 
As others have said, it depends entirely on the model of helicopter. Bells usually work as you said, pull to the first detent for intercom, to the second for radio. But Sikorsky (at least on the S76) does it differently - push up for intercom, down for radio. This is better, but does take some getting used to after 10,000 hours or so in Bells.
Offshore-equipped models will generally have a float inflation switch on the cyclic, and may have a float arming switch on the collective. They can be almost anywhere in reality.
You really have to learn the layout for each model, and think before you start pushing buttons.
As others have said, it depends entirely on the model of helicopter. Bells usually work as you said, pull to the first detent for intercom, to the second for radio. But Sikorsky (at least on the S76) does it differently - push up for intercom, down for radio. This is better, but does take some getting used to after 10,000 hours or so in Bells.
Offshore-equipped models will generally have a float inflation switch on the cyclic, and may have a float arming switch on the collective. They can be almost anywhere in reality.
You really have to learn the layout for each model, and think before you start pushing buttons.
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Originally Posted by Gomer Pylot
Which buttons are you inquiring about - on the collective or cyclic? The title says one, your question another.
As others have said, it depends entirely on the model of helicopter. Bells usually work as you said, pull to the first detent for intercom, to the second for radio. But Sikorsky (at least on the S76) does it differently - push up for intercom, down for radio. This is better, but does take some getting used to after 10,000 hours or so in Bells.
Offshore-equipped models will generally have a float inflation switch on the cyclic, and may have a float arming switch on the collective. They can be almost anywhere in reality.
You really have to learn the layout for each model, and think before you start pushing buttons.
As others have said, it depends entirely on the model of helicopter. Bells usually work as you said, pull to the first detent for intercom, to the second for radio. But Sikorsky (at least on the S76) does it differently - push up for intercom, down for radio. This is better, but does take some getting used to after 10,000 hours or so in Bells.
Offshore-equipped models will generally have a float inflation switch on the cyclic, and may have a float arming switch on the collective. They can be almost anywhere in reality.
You really have to learn the layout for each model, and think before you start pushing buttons.
Patrick
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Patrick, as others have pointed out there are many type of cyclic grips/configurations out there. In a "standard" Bell 206, the little red button on the top of the cyclic grip is *usually* the intercom button. Radio transmit function is handled by the trigger in front.
Patrick,
On your website you have two different cyclics on two cockpit shots: maybe you should link what cyclic you intend using, and then someone would be able to give a definitive answer
On your website you have two different cyclics on two cockpit shots: maybe you should link what cyclic you intend using, and then someone would be able to give a definitive answer
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Originally Posted by John Eacott
Patrick,
On your website you have two different cyclics on two cockpit shots: maybe you should link what cyclic you intend using, and then someone would be able to give a definitive answer
On your website you have two different cyclics on two cockpit shots: maybe you should link what cyclic you intend using, and then someone would be able to give a definitive answer
Good point. However, without knowing what's strapped on the outside that might be a challenge on the one stick.
I'll likely sim a couple of versions, with functions that can be assigned to different joystick functions as the user requires. I'll likely go with the simpler stick in the base model, and the one on steroids for the versions with tv cameras, flir, or search lights etc., to allow those to be controlled.
Good idea though. If someone wants to take a stab at it, go for it.
Patrick
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PW
something that's been reported by many media magazines of repute over the years, Stern was one for example, but probably not public knowledges was the configuration of the OZ mustering bell 47's cyclic buttons.
Intercom used be the red one on top like the 206, but was always unreliable so was disused and separate PTT buttons would be located around the cab with a hot mike switch on the console.
In front of the grip was the normal red radio Transmit trigger, and usually two pull toggles mounted on a frame attached to the cyclic below the hand grip, one for Hook release the other for the Siren, which had a mode selector on the siren itself, (six modes and voice select also) which was located behind your feet in front of the seat.
The old unreliable intercom buttom used to be connected to a jigger, the same as an electric cattle prod, arrangement that was used to prod particularly slow cattle via a long probe that stuck out in front from under the chin of the cabin.
Many had tape decks which were tapped into the intercom circuit so's one could listen to your favorite music during the long days.
One dude had his tape deck hot wired to his siren speaker and often played 'Ride of the Valkaries', much to the amusement of assembled horsemen.
something that's been reported by many media magazines of repute over the years, Stern was one for example, but probably not public knowledges was the configuration of the OZ mustering bell 47's cyclic buttons.
Intercom used be the red one on top like the 206, but was always unreliable so was disused and separate PTT buttons would be located around the cab with a hot mike switch on the console.
In front of the grip was the normal red radio Transmit trigger, and usually two pull toggles mounted on a frame attached to the cyclic below the hand grip, one for Hook release the other for the Siren, which had a mode selector on the siren itself, (six modes and voice select also) which was located behind your feet in front of the seat.
The old unreliable intercom buttom used to be connected to a jigger, the same as an electric cattle prod, arrangement that was used to prod particularly slow cattle via a long probe that stuck out in front from under the chin of the cabin.
Many had tape decks which were tapped into the intercom circuit so's one could listen to your favorite music during the long days.
One dude had his tape deck hot wired to his siren speaker and often played 'Ride of the Valkaries', much to the amusement of assembled horsemen.
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FlightSim Questions (Merged)
With BAT ON, at the beginning of the day, I would expect that the TOT would read below the 1 (minimum mark representing 100 degC) unless you are flying in Hell.
During flight it would read what, about 520 degC?
Then, lets say you land and shut down and come back in 30 minutes. When you turn on the battery, what will it now read?
Basically, I'm trying to sim this, and need some idea of about how fast it will cool off.
How long does it take to cool completely?
Thanks,
Patrick
During flight it would read what, about 520 degC?
Then, lets say you land and shut down and come back in 30 minutes. When you turn on the battery, what will it now read?
Basically, I'm trying to sim this, and need some idea of about how fast it will cool off.
How long does it take to cool completely?
Thanks,
Patrick
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Question about the Basics of Torque
I'm trying to wrap my head around what torque is in a turbine helicopter.
I get that in a helicopter like the B206, the N1 turbine drives the turbine compressors, and that it's output flow drives N2 turbine without a mechanical connection.
From here I get fuzzy. I am thinking that the N2 turbine drives the rotor via the transmission and mechanical connections.
So, given the above, I get what N1, N2, and Nr are measuring, but not Torque.
Thanks for the help,
Patrick
I get that in a helicopter like the B206, the N1 turbine drives the turbine compressors, and that it's output flow drives N2 turbine without a mechanical connection.
From here I get fuzzy. I am thinking that the N2 turbine drives the rotor via the transmission and mechanical connections.
So, given the above, I get what N1, N2, and Nr are measuring, but not Torque.
Thanks for the help,
Patrick
When cool, it should read ambient temperature (eg 30 or so).
In flight with max continuous power set, about 650 - 690 deg - lower power settings, lower TOT.
On shutdown, down to about 250, then creeping back up to about 350 or so as the cooling airflow goes away.
After 30 minutes shut down, would be back to under 150 easily.
If you want to start up after only a few minutes shut down, cranking the engine without introducing fuel cools it down quickly, so the procedure there is (from temp about 300, say):
1. Crank, watch TOT. It will drop quite quickly and smoothly (say 5 seconds to get below 150)
2. When TOT below 150, 'crack' the throttle and continue start as normal.
In flight with max continuous power set, about 650 - 690 deg - lower power settings, lower TOT.
On shutdown, down to about 250, then creeping back up to about 350 or so as the cooling airflow goes away.
After 30 minutes shut down, would be back to under 150 easily.
If you want to start up after only a few minutes shut down, cranking the engine without introducing fuel cools it down quickly, so the procedure there is (from temp about 300, say):
1. Crank, watch TOT. It will drop quite quickly and smoothly (say 5 seconds to get below 150)
2. When TOT below 150, 'crack' the throttle and continue start as normal.
Shame he did not ask about "Torque" in helicopter pilots.
That "torque" occurs when you get up in the morning and head for the Loo....and when you push down on yer willy to wee....your feet fly out from under you.
That "torque" occurs when you get up in the morning and head for the Loo....and when you push down on yer willy to wee....your feet fly out from under you.
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Originally Posted by tomstheword
the gauge itself reads oil pressure in percent of the transmission horsepower limits, But it gets the reading from the engine
So, basically it is the horsepower being used. So, the amount of power required to drive the rotors and other loads on the engine. It shows me what percent of available power being used. How hard the engine is working to do what I am asking.
What then do torques over 100% mean? (besides a new career and a worn engine, haha).