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Old 9th Aug 2003, 19:54
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More tales from PNG

Time: 1400 Local time.
Position: Aircraft parking area Safia.
Me: I’m daydreaming about an afternoon beer until a shotgun is pointed at me. @#$%&*! That’s the second time this week.


Earlier…

Earth tremors from the active volcano Mt Lamington, 20km south of Popondetta, were felt all through town this morning. The Gods seem troubled. I suspect this is not going to be a good week.


After a year away from Popondetta I can’t say I’m overly thrilled to be back. I’m currently filling in for The Slange who is on holidays and due back at the end of the week. Nothing has really changed. Certainly not the schedule, as 0800 Monday morning has me departing Girua (the airport at Popondetta) for all stations to Port Moresby.

First stop: Itokama, a relatively innocuous airstrip up at 2300ft. Next stop Tetebedi. Situated at 3300ft AMSL it can sometimes prove troublesome in the afternoon when rain showers reduce visibility in the narrow valley. Trouble, however, is brewing early. Some village people from Emo River (my next stop) have walked up to Tetebedi to warn me of a planned hold-up this morning by a raskol gang (bad guys). OK. I think I’ll steer clear of Emo River for a few days.

Departing Tetebedi, I set heading for Kokoda. Forgetting, as usual, to radio ahead I land at Kokoda to find the booked load now exceeds the seating capacity by 50 %. It’s just a small matter of creative manifest calculations, a quick check of the nose oleo to see if the Islander is in balance and it’s off to Port Moresby. Exiting the runway at Port Moresby, I notice a DASH 7 nose down, tail up and half swallowed by the storm water drainage trench. The local engineers must be practising their towing again.

After completing the day’s paperwork with the traffic officer in the terminal at Girua, it’s time to leave. But, then again, maybe not. A shotgun is pointing straight at me. We are well and truly out numbered. There are five shotguns and a rather nasty looking knife versus my Leatherman. They want our day’s takings plus anything else of value including my trusty DC-10 headset. Absolutely, take it all. In fact I have 20 kina in my back pocket, would you like that, too? The guy with the knife jabs it dangerously close to my stomach. He wants my shoes. Sure, no problem. You can have my socks as well. As they leave I politely enquire, in a rare show of bravado, if I can have my headset back. The gang leader slowly turns his gun towards me, thinks for a moment then throws my headset to the ground. He says I can have it back, but only because a wantok (relative) is flying to Safia tomorrow. I stand there shoeless, sockless and 20K down. Did I mention they took my lucky pen?



Since the weather is fine this morning I choose the scenic mountainous route to Safia. It could be my imagination, but passing Mt Lamington I could have sworn I saw a plume of smoke coming from the crater. Overflying Namudi I remember my first experience of this airstrip. Having been in PNG only two days I was not prepared for the sight of fifty village people wearing grass skirts carrying spears, bows and arrows and bush knives. I was sure they were going to kill me and great courage was required to get out of the aircraft. On landing at Safia, the trickiest part is avoiding the cowpats since the airstrip also doubles as a cow paddock.

Government charters come in many guises. During the week I will deliver ballot boxes to all the airstrips in Oro Province for the Electoral Commission. The reason being is that PNG is due for an election next month. Competition is fierce to get one’s snout in the trough and campaigning has begun in earnest. Roadblocks are set up in many areas with drivers asked to “contribute” or else. These donations provide a slush fund for the candidate’s expenditure on transport, payoffs, bribes and other skulduggery. Truckloads of beer are common inducements used to procure votes in surrounding villages. The losing parties can usually be relied upon to rampage through town when the results are announced.

A charter to Tetebedi finishes off the day. On landing, the Islander does its best to run off the left side of the airstrip. This is a big problem as hundreds of people are lined up on this side watching me. Upon investigation I find the left brake calliper unit firmly wedged between the wheel and oleo. The bolts holding the calliper have sheared. With no way of repairing it or removing the unit from the disc, all I can do is de-wedge it with a few good kicks. Leaving the brake unit to float on the disc I taxi around to determine if one more take-off and landing is possible. Due to good management or good fortune I make it back to Girua unscathed. I send an SOS to the company. They advise help will arrive tomorrow morning.



Irreconcilable differences between two families over disputed land claims at the airport have come to a head. The aggrieved family is now threatening to burn the Islander unless some form of compensation is paid to them. As we approach the airport it appears the Islander is still in one piece. Drat. Looks like I’m stuck here for a few more days. In fact there are two Islanders on the ground when we arrive. One of our pilots has flown to Girua with the engineer who has almost fixed my brake problem.

Greetings exchanged, I am told the story of one of our pilots who recently had a partial engine failure in a C-206 shortly after take-off at Tsewi. Initially, the pilot tried to reduce drag by raising the flap. Meanwhile, the back seat passenger had ideas of his own and was attempting to open the cargo doors in the misguided belief that jumping out was now the safest option. Of course, partially opening the forward cargo door released the flap microswitch, disabling flap operation. The pilot was now trying to fly the C-206 while at the same time yelling to the passenger to shut the door. Eventually the pilot had to reach back, push the passenger away from the door and close it himself. Quite a remarkable feat, since all the while hills flashed past perilously close.

After completing the regular Gulf run, a charter to the coastal village of Tufi awaits. Spectacular when viewed from the air, the village is situated on the side of an active volcano. Evidence of the last eruption (over 100 years ago) is shown by lava tentacles radiating in a 180 degree arc towards the sea. These rocky fingers have since been covered in rainforest and patches of reef can be found off the tips. On take-off at Tufi, naughty pilots have been known to dive bomb the local fishermen in their canoes. The challenge is to get the fishermen to jump out of their canoes for fear of their lives. No mean feat since they don’t scare easily.



Continued next post.

My first trip today is to pick up the local teacher and his family from Gora so they can go home to Popondetta for the school holidays. One way, level and only 410m long, it is severely weight restrictive as I found out last year while heading for two rather tall trees immediately after take-off. The training pilot had assured me our current load of six passengers plus baggage would pose no problem for our departure. Using every inch of the airstrip I lined up, still somewhat dubious, gave the Islander full charge and released the brakes. Two thirds of the way down the airstrip it was patently obvious an early lift off was the only way to avoid flying into the jungle now rapidly filling up the windscreen. Barely flying, let alone climbing, at 55kts and hemmed in by a hill hard up against the left wing, my next problem was negotiating two much taller trees about to make contact with the right wing. Quickly banking left I lifted the right wing tip over the treetops and once clear immediately levelled the wings. Nothing was said for a few minutes until the training pilot admitted mistaking the airstrip for a longer one with a similar name. I think somebody owes me a beer.

Giddy up cowboy, I’m off to Safia! During a quick pit stop at Asapa, I notice the village people have finally cut the grass covering the whole airstrip. When I was here two days ago, a narrow tunnel of grass had been cut to give a two foot clearance either side of the wings. All well and good normally, except the grass was as high as the tail. The approach to Asapa is through a dip in a 200ft hill on short finals. The correct profile gives a five foot wheel clearance from the hill, then a 30 degree left turn at 50ft properly executed will have the wings level on touchdown. Yee ha!

I can almost taste that SP brown bottle (local beer) as the Islander touches down on a cowpat for my final stop today at Safia. Daydreaming about a second SP, I am snapped back to reality when a shotgun is pointed at me. Am I having a good week or what??? I’ll bet it’s the wantok of the raskol who held me up at Girua on Monday. The family resemblance is uncanny. Brown face, dark curly hair, shotgun in hand. Yeah, yeah, I know the drill. As the company profits take another hit I think to myself, “ At least they don’t want my shoes this time.” Or my socks.



Multiple layers of low level cloud makes for a challenging start to the day. Kokoda is all but fogged in and requires an imaginative approach to land from. It’s bound to be better on the other side of the Owen Stanley Ranges I predict. But no, there’s 8/8ths of stratus as far as the eye can see in the direction of Port Moresby. Not surprisingly the TAFOR’s on Girua and Port Moresby bear no resemblance to the actual weather this morning. PNG weather forecasting has been refined down to a fine art. Tomorrow’s forecast, for example, will be based entirely on today’s actual weather at an airport.
.
Back in Girua, a carnival type atmosphere is unfolding with a hundred or so locals in traditional dress, dancing and singing. Something big is afoot. The toilets in the terminal are even being cleaned. In fact the Australian Prime Minister is dropping by en-route to Kokoda where he will pay special tribute to the ‘Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels’ for their contributions to the war effort during World War Two. One of the PM’s minders wants me to delay my departure for Wanigela by thirty minutes to allow the PM’s Air Force Hercules a traffic free arrival into Girua. Dream on you officious little twerp, I think to myself. Some people have real work to do. I start the engines and taxi out before he can call for reinforcements

PNG’s version of the Tactical Response Group (TRG) are waiting for me when I return to Girua. No, I’m not in trouble from the Australian Government. I’m to fly the TRG team covertly to Uroubi. Their mission is to sneak into Safia during the night (about a 15km walk from Uroubi) and round up the raskols who held me up and have been causing trouble in general for the last three days. 10nm before Uroubi I go into stealth mode by dropping down to 100ft AGL. Landing straight in from low level catches the village people walking on the airstrip somewhat by surprise and they scatter in all directions just moments before I land. The TRG leader says they will call to be extracted from Safia when the mission is complete.



An awful lot of people are milling around the airport this morning. Hmmm, there seems to be something odd-looking about the terminal. Oh, I see, the roof is missing. In fact the back half of the terminal is now a burnt shell, courtesy of a fire started under mysterious circumstances.

However, the show must go on and loading the Islander progresses steadily until suddenly the nose rises into the air. Many’s the time a C-206 would assume a tail dragger attitude until the pilot got in and started the engine, but I’ve never seen an Islander sitting on its tail before. Where’s my camera? Damn, it’s in my bag under the front seat, which is now ten feet in the air. Acting quickly before the loaders make a bad situation worse, I sit on the tail to prevent the nose wheel from crashing down. Judicious weight transfers allow a soft landing.

My last flight from Popondetta is to pick up the TRG guys from Safia. It appears good has triumphed over evil. Two of the raskols look like they have gone ten rounds with Mike Tyson. The one who was holding the shotgun is lying on a stretcher with a bullet wound to his leg. That’s right buddy. Don’t mess with an Islander pilot, I think to myself. (Despite his obvious discomfort, he remains remarkably calm. Suitably impressed, I surmise that any race of people who can wear an over size gumnut on their willy are tough in my book.)

There’s a spring in my step now. The Slange is due back imminently as I can see a DASH 7 in the distance. After he rolls off the plane, he tells me the latest breaking news of an Islander crash during a single engine take-off. Unable to get one engine started on the ground, the pilot tried to air start the engine with a high-speed taxi. On reaching the single engine climb speed (65kts) he decided he might as well take-off. So far, so good. Upon raising the flaps the Islander started to sink. No problem. Put the flaps back to the take-off position. Unfortunately, on this Islander, a dicky flap position switch allowed inadvertent flap extension all the way to the landing position. Single engine + full flap = one result. The only casualty is the Islander. Strangely enough, management quietly applauds the pilot’s ingenuity. Unfortunately, as the outcome is less than desirable, the pilot is given his marching orders.

Working in PNG is more than a job. It’s an experience remembered for life. For those prepared (lucky enough) to take up the challenge, remember to take lots of pictures and keep a diary. Normal people won’t believe you otherwise.

As usual, a small amount of poetic licence was used in this tale. However, all stories are based on true events.
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Old 9th Aug 2003, 23:53
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Brilliant

Great! Keep 'em coming!
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Old 10th Aug 2003, 10:47
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Talking

Sounds alot like the work around here and to the east of me a bit. Keep em comming, its these sorts of stories that got me flying in the first place.
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Old 10th Aug 2003, 13:52
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Cow Bay you got me diving into my photo albums and log books, great memories, I ONLY spent 3 months based in "Pop" every friday I'd shout the cargo boys and airport manager beers and videos back at my place, this was my insurance of personal safety back then as everybody was a wantok......keep the yarns coming. ps catch ya later for a beer
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Old 10th Aug 2003, 15:06
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Tee hee...this was all a few years ago then...I used to fly Dash 7s for PX and they don't gotem anymore....and I knew the idiot who tried the se takeoff from Kiriwina too...tool...but as you say even the BASI fellas said "If he'd just done so and such he would have got away with it".

At the time I wonder how he figured an engine would airstart when he'd burned a starter motor out trying the normal way?

Not only was he sacked but had his PNG CPL revoked but still snuck in and out a few times on ferry flights!

Wild days....

Chuck

PS. I even managed to get a chap to get out of his boat while a big Hammerhead circled nearby...but then a twin otter at 2'/140kts will do that
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Old 10th Aug 2003, 20:56
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Cool

I tried both and I can guarantee that a Twin Otter will get someone out of a canoe much quicker than an Islander!

Great stuff, cow bay kid! Almost makes me want to go back and beg Guts for another go!
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Old 13th Aug 2003, 14:57
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anyone read

this

probably not as colourful without a restricted classification...but any good yarns?

now guts could write a best seller i reckon
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Old 13th Aug 2003, 20:29
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Lurch , many stories but wether they are restricted to the kiddie channels or not remain to be seen. I had a ball in my 7 or so years, and whether my present drinking mates like it or not I probably bore the crap out of them. Mate at 35k over png. I REALLY bore the sh t, out of my offsider.My life in png. will never be forgotten.......
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Old 16th Aug 2003, 08:54
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Man Bilong Balus long PNG
 
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Thumbs up

Cow Bay Kid; Loved the story! Almost makes me wish that I was back there myself!
However when I was there very few pilots ever had the unpleasant experience of someone pointing a shotgun at them. Fact is I don't remember anyone reporting such an unfortunate event. Criminals (My then Boss Richard Rowe said many times; 'they're not raskols, they're criminals!) tended to leave pilots mostly alone.
Keep the posts coming!!

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you're born. Once when
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Old 16th Aug 2003, 11:19
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I had guns pointed at me three times while in PNG in the mid to late nineties. Twice at 2 mile driving into town from Jackson’s and once in my house. After the third time I decided it was time to leave PNG.
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Old 16th Aug 2003, 18:02
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A mate of mine was flying in PNG about 3 years ago. He was wondering if anyone had any information regarding a C-206 accident in the Bundi Gap area 25 September 1987. Rego was
P2-FRB
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Old 17th Aug 2003, 14:45
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Kokoda Gap/Mt Lamington Flying

Great stuff! Brings back mems of the 'taim bipoa'

Spent 1967-1970 flying C185 and C180 out of Moresby into the strips up around the Gap. Remember Manumu, Efogi, Kagi and Naoro very well, as one would after 3-4 flights per day. Had an EFATO off Naoro in a 185 - just managed to scrape back into there - luckily was empty. Oil filter full of bearing metal! Rig up a block and tackle and help the LAME's drop another one in, fly it out next day. Always made sure the 'signing' LAME flew with me in the RHS after major engine work - it sharpened up their diligence no end!

If I remember correctly, I took the first 'commercial' flight into Tetebedi in about early '69 in a STOL 185. MAF had been in there several times in their PY based 185, and reckoned it was OK - so, what the heck! It was bloody rough, and slippery too. Must have been fixed up a lot to get an Islander in there?

In those days we were just getting a lot of people up to look at the trail, and we used to pick up and drop off at several points. There used to be several wrecked Ford Trimotors or Junkers 52 up on the edge of the strip at Myola - right at the top of the gap. Found out that the Army used to fly into there in a smaller Cub or Stinson - it must have been really tight, because that's about 6500 up, and with very changeable winds too.

Some of the guys used to fly their scenics down inside Mt Lamington too - you could get inside the outer rim of peaks. In my day it was steaming away quite merrily, and POP was very much shakey city! You could still see where the ash cloud of '53 cooked everything down the N side of the mountain - auli was back in residence nearly before it cooled I heard.

In the 60's Safia was a mission and we were not able to do charter into there.

Keep writing, we oldies will never lose interest in PNG - probably the best flying we ever did. Can't say we envy your living conditions though - it was just so 'easy' when we were there.

cheers
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Old 17th Aug 2003, 15:31
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Flyer 682

I think I can help with that one....just pulled out my No-1 Logbook and the entry for Sept 25 1987 reads;

C-185/BAF/Chm-BDI-MKI-SAR(FRB)-GKA 2.0

The 26th reads C185/BAF/GKA-CHM .3

What happened between those two flights is burned deep in the memory banks.

Chuck
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Old 17th Aug 2003, 15:42
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AAh happy days,well probably happier for me as l was flying a commander 840 out of cairns,mostly to karumba but on the odd occasion ti moresby and plenty of times to yorke island.Prawn spotting was the way to build up the hours.If you want soare bits for your islander give us a shout and l will fly to bembridge isle of wight and pick them up!Am sitting hanging around for 5 hours waiting to fly to new york now,no cabin crew but noone told me as l got up at 3 am, so you see kicking your heels doesnt just apply to GA
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Old 19th Aug 2003, 09:53
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Man Bilong Balus long PNG
 
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Question

OK Chuck; Now you've made me curious.
Just what did happen between those two flights? Wouldst thou care to elucidate?

You only live twice. Once when
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you've looked death in the face.
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Old 19th Aug 2003, 11:26
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RV6-VNE. That was Guinea Airways Ford 5-AT-C Trimotor VH-UBI/A45-1 at Myola. Shot up by the Japanese in the war, now recovered and at the war museum in Port Moresby.

"Ex G-ABHO and NC401H. Registered VH-UBI 26/10/35 to 06/02/42. Impressed into RAAF service from Guinea Airways on 06/02/42. At 24 Sqn 16/02/42. To Guinea Airways for overhaul 17/03/42. Being converted to Air Ambulance 24/07/42. To 1AD 11/10/42. To 36 Sqn 31/10/42. At 33 Sqn 16/11/42. Crashed at Myola on 24/11/42. To 15 RSU 30/11/42. Approved for conversion to componants 17/02/43. located in England-National Museum, Papua New Guinea."

The only remaining JU52 (of Gibbes Sepik Airways) is at Baiyer River. Other two were cut up at Madang I think.

You worked for Ron Firns/STOL? My, how the years pass.......

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Old 21st Aug 2003, 08:13
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Copy of a PM I sent Flyer. I have restrained myself from some negative comment so hope he won't mind feeding your collective curiousity.


I departed Moki enroute Goroka in C185/BAF on that Friday and was asked by Madang FS to check the area just east of Bundi Gap for a missing 206. While it was very cloudy I was able to monitor his ELT and by flying back and forth listening to the signal fade/strengthen and drop out I narrowed his position down to a small area. I then flew to Goroka and dropped into Pacific Helicopters to ask what was going on. DCA Port Moresby had alerted them to the 'possibility' of a downed aircraft but told then to standby. I told Mal Smith, the owner of Pacific Helicopters, that they were definately down and about where....after a while he said "stuff DCA' and launched a chopper with me and a pilot who's name escapes me to go look. The weather had cleared when we reached the area and after a short search I spotted a flash of colour in the trees...we circled back and there they were...fuselage inverted/nose down/wings ripped off and two people, a man and a women, waving madly.

After assuring them that we had seen them we flew back to Goroka to put together some sort of rescue plan. A Pac Helicopters Bell 212 with a winch was parked outside but no pilots available. We rang DCA and, from memory, they suggested we use the PNG Defence FARCE to rescue your mate. We put together some heliboxes with extra blankets and stuff (which destroyed their CofG causing them to tumble instead of spin down gently, and a chainsaw/fuel and flew back to the crash site. I lowered the chainsaw down on a rope and dropped the heliboxes....your mate then went berserk with the chainsaw as if we could pick him up immediately if he denuded enough of the mountain in the next 3 minutes

By this time it was probably 1700 and too late to effect a rescue that day. The Defence Farce 'Strategic Recon Unit' was going to come up the next day...we asked for them at dawn but they reconed mid morning...as I knew their Australian Commanding Officer I put in a call and he assured me they would be at Goroka at first light....they arrived mid morning.

First a C47 and then a Arava overflew Goroka and headed up towards the crash site....as if there was ANY chance of spotting them from a large fixed wing aircraft without knowing the exact spot to look...idiots. They then returned to GKA and went for a wander around town buying stuff before most got back on board one of the aircraft and left.

The remaining idiots were then briefed by myself and we dropped them into a small clearing we had found 1nm south of the crash site two at a time.

This was no small feat a it was a VERY small Kunai sink hole with a large tree covering most of it...to get in we had to hover in under the tree and then put down in head high kunai grass. On each trip I got out and led them, crawling, to a spot in front of the chopper and outside the rotor disk. The last two in were the CO and his 2nd IC. As we got to the 'safe' spot' I said "Right 1nm on a heading of 350deg magnetic, OK?"

"UGH Nogat map and nogat compass!!"

"F**CKING WHAT???"

We then flew back to Goroka and found a suitable map and compass and flew it back in...as I crawled through the kunai to deliver said items they were brewing up and looked like they were settling in for a long stay...no sign of any desire to head north.

This was late Saturday and my direct involvement finished but I kept in touch with Mal Smith over the next few days. Everyday the chopper had to go out and find the recon team, who was lost, and give them a new track and distance to the crash site. They were finally rescued on the Wednesday!!!

Chuck.
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Old 21st Aug 2003, 08:46
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another tale from the 'only in PNG' file
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Old 21st Aug 2003, 09:42
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Man Bilong Balus long PNG
 
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Thanks Chuck. Certainly made interesting reading!
Definitely the 'Only in PNG' saga that one.
BTW what'cha up to? Send me a pm sometime can ya?


You only live twice. Once when
you're born. Once when
you've looked death in the face.
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Old 23rd Aug 2003, 09:00
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HaHa

PNG never seems to suprise me. Gee I cant even remember his name, but that theory of everything going wrong at the worst possible time was probably made if that dude was ever in PNG.

I used to remember that phrase at the top of my head everyday and also his name too. But I guess I been away from PNG too long to even care. Ohh hah MURPHY"S LAW. Thats it. I think the Papua in PNG is MURPHY. One smart F*&ker!!!
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