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Pickling a Car - Long Term Storage

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Pickling a Car - Long Term Storage

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Old 8th Jun 2011, 07:48
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Thanks 'remoak' & 'tankengine' I didn't want to go too deep with all this but I think GG might now understand what we are trying to talk about here. Filling an engine completely with oil would take an extraordinary effort inc blocking off the exhaust system & the intake manifold/s:-) Just filling the engine 'till oil overflowed out of the filler point only means no more can drain down into the sump, the bores would be mostly M/T.


Wmk2
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Old 8th Jun 2011, 09:43
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Thanks 'remoak' & 'tankengine' I didn't want to go too deep with all this but I think GG might now understand what we are trying to talk about here. Filling an engine completely with oil would take an extraordinary effort inc blocking off the exhaust system & the intake manifold/s:-) Just filling the engine 'till oil overflowed out of the filler point only means no more can drain down into the sump, the bores would be mostly M/T.


Wmk2
The bores do fill with oil.

How do I know? Because I've done it plenty of times. Don't be an armchair expert until you have tried it.

When you remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over, oil pumps out of the spark plug holes with much enthusiasm.

Try it
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Old 8th Jun 2011, 11:28
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Fill the fuel tank too.

And fuel can go off as well, but not in three months.
I was reading somewhere (cant find the article now), that unleaded fuel now has a reduced shelf life of only 3 months or so..I imagine it would still be useable, but may run rough as hessian underpants.
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Old 8th Jun 2011, 11:49
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I own an early Buell with a high compression 1200cc sportser engine,store it full of fuel as it has a bladder fuel tank
Premium unleaded is flat after 3-4 months,won't fire at all, apparently the volatiles evaporate
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Old 8th Jun 2011, 12:30
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'GG' I'm not going to go head to head with you on this a few others in here have tried to explain it also. Some oil would have found it's way into the cylinders after a long period of time due seepage past the rings (& valve stem seals if the engine was in poor condition) if the block was indeed full of oil (which I might add would be a lot of oil) hence that's what ran out upon plug removal. As I said I'll give you the benefit of the doubt

Oh & btw I don't need to be an armchair expert as I am a qualified motor mech & have several years of A/C engineering under my belt in a previous life.

'aldee' yr quite right fuel does go stale & loses a lot of it's calorific value after time.


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Old 8th Jun 2011, 14:23
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Yep Wally is right (again). Not a mechanic myself, but have rebuilt lots of motors, and brought quite a few classics back to life.

You only have to think about it for a few seconds... how does the oil get above the pistons? Only two routes... past the rings or past the valve guide seals. The end gaps in the rings of modern engines are pretty tight if the engine is in good nick, so any seepage is going to be minimal. If you are getting a lot of seepage past the rings or valve guide seals, your motor is basically poked!

Petrol does indeed go "off" more quickly these days, although stuff that won't run my somewhat fussy bike, seems to work fine in the old Briggs and Stratton mower...
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Old 9th Jun 2011, 11:00
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filling engine and bores with oil where is she being parked on the bottom of the pacific
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Old 9th Jun 2011, 11:21
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All good advice....except for GG.
There is no need to drown the poor engine in oil unless it's parked at the bottom of the Pacific(like someone suggested).
If short term(up to 12 months) just disconnect battery, lock it up and walk away. It will be fine when you return, I have proved to myself many times over the years. For longer term, back off your rocker arms to close all valves so seal all cylinders, wrap up your carby or block throttle body to prevent dust or moisture entering intake and before starting again simply replace all fluids and you are right to go.
As for fuel going off there is a solution.
It's called STA-BIL. It is a fuel stabiliser that restores and refresh your fuel while in storage for up to 12 months at a time by simply adding one bottle (450 ml) to a full tank (65 Litres ) and it will keep away moisture and maintains octane rating while stored and ready to start. Google it!
It works. I use it all the time in my 426 Hemi Challenger that only gets started every 6 months.
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Old 10th Jun 2011, 01:33
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Leave it out of gear and chock the wheels with handbrake off, as I had a car's clutch seize on (rust) and had a lot of fun starting it in gear. Granted it was an old and knackered Cortina
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Old 10th Jun 2011, 13:39
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'oldpinger' the old Cortina would be worth something now. Funny how they where worthless after a few years use but now pretty much any car made in the 70's for Eg is worth coin!
Oh BTW I had the same stuck clutch problem with an old Honda SL100 motor bike, had to ride it like a mad man in first gear(once I got it started) whilst holding the clutch lever in. When the clutch finally let got the revs near went off the clock!:-)BTW just for the record leaving a car in neutral makes no diff to the clutches position The clutch plate will still be locked tight against the flywheel & the pressure plate regardless of whether the box is in neutral or in gear. The only way you can release the clutch plate is to depress the clutch pedal & hold it there for however long ya want to keep the car in storage. Go check the old Cortina now someone might still be in there with his foot locked on the clutch pedal after all these years!

God I'd had hoped I had 4gotten all that motor mech stuff by now..........

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Old 10th Jun 2011, 17:19
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sell it?

from what i remember of piston engine theory, the oil will come up, past the rings and through the ring gaps, might not be quick, but it will, the gaps cant be that close when its cold


or inhibit like a radial, change oil to inhibiting oil start it, get to temp, get er revin like a bastard and slowly start pourin inhibiting oil down the intake, take fuel out, continue the oil flow until engine stops,(this coats insides of intake and exhaust and cylinders with oil) walk away, comeback, clean plugs, change oil and fire it up



then she smokes like bastard thats how the firebombers in BC used to store em
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Old 11th Jun 2011, 03:37
  #32 (permalink)  
 
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GG. You are of course correct in that oil seeps past the rings, and it does it in a matter of minutes.

Cheers
BH
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Old 11th Jun 2011, 05:56
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nomorecatering, the showdown will be in Alice Springs at sunrise. It's about halfway between where Wally and the Goblin live. Bring your car. Its not as though you're going to be needing it for a few months anyway.

In the red corner, Captain Wally and his supporters who say it would take a very long time for oil to seep past the seals into the cylinders.

In the blue corner, The Green Goblin and his supporters, who say the cylinders will fill rapidly and easily.

This is clearly the only way to settle this discussion.


If I ever start a band, I think I'll call it Wally and the Goblins...
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Old 11th Jun 2011, 09:36
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Depends on the car you bring. From this discussion, it is quite clear that GG owns crappy old cars with stuffed rings, and Wally has quality vehicles with factory tolerances.

Just buy a diesel, that way it will preserve itself...
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