F-Wyg,
Yes, 5 hours training. No written paper or skills test.
It's a qualification, not a rating, and therefore no revalidation (although you must have performed one take-off and landing after dark in the previous 90 days to carry passengers).
Although no legal revalidation requirement, school may require check ride if renting.
As for landing after dark at home airfield without lighting, don't do it. Hopefully, during your night training you will see that to try as much would be pretty stupid unless an emergency. Our home field has indemnity/waiver scheme for local aircraft but explicitly excludes landing after dark when closed.
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