Things to look out for during R22 preflight?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 63
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From: UK
After you have checked that the paint stripes on the flex couplings are all present and correct, check that the flex plate is not developing any cracks by running the end of your finger nail along the edge of the flex plates as you slowly rotate the TR drive shaft. You will feel even a hairline crack before you see it and it's quite difficult to see round the reverse side of the flex plate anyway without using a mirror.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 28
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From: USA
Loads of people forget the fuel cap! It seems to me that the only thing a chain is good for is letting the fuel cap beat the crap out of the paint job.
I'm aware of R22, 206, 407, 76 drivers who are all guilty of taking off with the cap off/open. Anyway, point is:- Always do a walk around before you turn the key/ press the button.
Back on topic, I always checked the skid shoes, running landings and touch down auto's that look like running landings can wear them out pretty quickly.
I'm aware of R22, 206, 407, 76 drivers who are all guilty of taking off with the cap off/open. Anyway, point is:- Always do a walk around before you turn the key/ press the button.
Back on topic, I always checked the skid shoes, running landings and touch down auto's that look like running landings can wear them out pretty quickly.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,957
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From: Australia
You've picked up a bit on this thread ifresh, but the rest of the laggards are an example of how not to forget something important, really important.
That most important thing is, if you've read anything at all in the last few years, is to HAVE A DARN GOOD LOOK AT YOUR M/R BLADES. Especially the area on the end where the debonding problems are rife, an get yourself a US quarter for the tap test, but make sure you're instructor teaches you how to do one.
Apart from that always carry a ten-power, get them from a jeweller store, and check the 3C's. - Cracks-Chafing-Corrosion. That'll see you through most aircraft. Nearly all of them might be liable to devlop cracks in the same proximity on the T/R
an remember, clean oil, clean fuel, an clean air and plenty of each.
check the carby temp before reducing power on your take off.
That most important thing is, if you've read anything at all in the last few years, is to HAVE A DARN GOOD LOOK AT YOUR M/R BLADES. Especially the area on the end where the debonding problems are rife, an get yourself a US quarter for the tap test, but make sure you're instructor teaches you how to do one.
Apart from that always carry a ten-power, get them from a jeweller store, and check the 3C's. - Cracks-Chafing-Corrosion. That'll see you through most aircraft. Nearly all of them might be liable to devlop cracks in the same proximity on the T/R
an remember, clean oil, clean fuel, an clean air and plenty of each.
check the carby temp before reducing power on your take off.
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,957
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From: Australia
Try this mob, it costs a bit, but I believe but it is the only product certified as far as I know. someone else may know something else??
Airwolf Aerospace :: Home
tet
Airwolf Aerospace :: Home
tet
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,081
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From: Redding CA, or on a fire somewhere
Although this is specific to the 300CBi, there is a fair amount of information that is applicable to all aircraft or could be adapted to the R-22.
12 part Pre-Flight Video
You may even see "yours truly" in a couple of scenes and the closing credits.....of course that was in a former life......
12 part Pre-Flight Video
You may even see "yours truly" in a couple of scenes and the closing credits.....of course that was in a former life......
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 54
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From: Away out There
just remembered
ifresh, as well as my normal daily (extensive, blades and all) I used to pick on a particular area of the machine every day as opportunity permitted and look / feel very carefully at that spot for abnormalities. It really pays off to talk with others as you have done here. A few other points come to mind, such as lifting your collective right up and moving the cyclic so as to give you good access to the underside of the swashplate, get used to what is supposed to move and what isn't. The ball and slider hardware can become loose in the housing. Also another good check is to to put the collective in about the cruise position and frictions off move the cyclic around just aft of neutral and mix it around a bit gently, this can sometimes show if the ball is becoming worn or the teflon is wearing off the slider and you might feel the controls grab a bit and jamb up. Should this happen in flight dont continue to force it through but back off the control input and it will usually free up and then reintroduce the control inputs seperately and have a quiet word with your engineer. This usually just means changing the ball and slider. I hope you have been shown correctly but when checking nearly all components (rod ends a good example) make sure you place a finger across both items while you manipulate one section with your other hand so as to feel directly the movement.
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9
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From: Boonies
Has anyone ever heard of a R22 door departing in flight? If you have and your'e able to point me towards a link etc, it would be much appreciated.
Not interested in other heli doors, just the R22
Thanks in advance
Not interested in other heli doors, just the R22
Thanks in advance
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 614
Likes: 0
From: On the Rump of Pendle Hill Lancashi
Get onto ya back and wriggle underneath look up into the bottom of the engine, run your hand round the casing to see if any traces of Texas Tea can be seen , or bolts shaken loose or anything else loose, , most people dont do that, I did and found nuts finger tight and oil seeping from a engine casing joint, so better to see that on ya back before the flight , than on ya back in some far away backyard or field..eh
Peter R-B
Peter R-B
