Buying an Auster
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From: Deepest Warwickshire
Buying an Auster
Chap I know is thinking of buying an Auster J-series for his first aeroplane. This is is likely to have the Gyp Major rather than the Blackburn Cirrus engine.
He, like I, is not flushed with cash so the Auster is an attractive buy given the low initial purchase price and low variable running costs.
Would anyone care to pass on any Auster-specific buying tips? What are the likely running costs and expenses one could run into? Comments welcome on the ownership experience.
Cheers
BR
He, like I, is not flushed with cash so the Auster is an attractive buy given the low initial purchase price and low variable running costs.
Would anyone care to pass on any Auster-specific buying tips? What are the likely running costs and expenses one could run into? Comments welcome on the ownership experience.
Cheers
BR
Last edited by BlueRobin; 3rd April 2003 at 22:29.
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,681
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From: Just South of the last ice sheet
Good choice but then I am biased!
Firstly, don't dismiss the Cirrus engined versions, they are considerably more economical to operate than the Gipsy engined ones (4.5 gph v 6.5 gph). However, they do lift less of a load and they have an 800 hour TBO after which they have to run "on condition". I'm not sure what the Gipsy TBO is but I don't think it's a whole lot more, maybe 1,200 hours??
Whatever the engine, check for oil leaks especially around the magnetos, pushrod tubes and valve covers. They all leak oil (just like a British motorbike of the era) but some do it more than others.
Don't be put off by dented leading edges (as long as they aren't cratered!) as the D section forward of the main spar that forms the leading edge is made of very light gauge ally. Dents are endemic to the breed especially the starboard wing as it catches the crud thrown up by the prop first.
As in all fabric covered steel tube taildraggers, beware of corrosion in the rear, lower fuselage tubes. Banging them with the handle of a screwdriver should result in a solid thud. If not, they are REALLY bad!
Make sure the airframe is covered in a plethora of zips and / or inspection rings. I've just cut 30 holes in mine as the previous owners / inspectors had covered everything up and I wanted to see what the main spar etc really looked like, up close and personal. All was good thankfully
Make sure the windscreen is good, they are £450 + VAT etc each. Also the rear roof transparency as that is a lovely curved blow moulding and rare as hen's teeth. Check the engine mounting bolts have been inspected and / or changed as to replace the top pair is a fuel tank out job if there is a forward fuel tank. Not a problem on the models with wing tanks only obviously.
Check the condition of the undercarriage bungees by removing the aluminium pressing in front of the seats. They aren't a problem to replace but it'll cost you around £200 to do it once you have located someone with a bungee fitting tool..... (I know someone who has one in the Herts area).
As with all aircraft with control cables, check them for fraying or polishing (the stage just before they start to fray) where they travel through guides or over pulleys.
Apart from the above, virtually all of which applies to any fabric covered taildragger and most ally covered aeroplanes, they are a simple, cheap (in aviation terms) to maintain and run, fun to fly aeroplane. I prefer mine to the L4 Cub I had before it.
Hope I didn't take up too much bandwidth there BRL
Firstly, don't dismiss the Cirrus engined versions, they are considerably more economical to operate than the Gipsy engined ones (4.5 gph v 6.5 gph). However, they do lift less of a load and they have an 800 hour TBO after which they have to run "on condition". I'm not sure what the Gipsy TBO is but I don't think it's a whole lot more, maybe 1,200 hours??
Whatever the engine, check for oil leaks especially around the magnetos, pushrod tubes and valve covers. They all leak oil (just like a British motorbike of the era) but some do it more than others.
Don't be put off by dented leading edges (as long as they aren't cratered!) as the D section forward of the main spar that forms the leading edge is made of very light gauge ally. Dents are endemic to the breed especially the starboard wing as it catches the crud thrown up by the prop first.
As in all fabric covered steel tube taildraggers, beware of corrosion in the rear, lower fuselage tubes. Banging them with the handle of a screwdriver should result in a solid thud. If not, they are REALLY bad!
Make sure the airframe is covered in a plethora of zips and / or inspection rings. I've just cut 30 holes in mine as the previous owners / inspectors had covered everything up and I wanted to see what the main spar etc really looked like, up close and personal. All was good thankfully
Make sure the windscreen is good, they are £450 + VAT etc each. Also the rear roof transparency as that is a lovely curved blow moulding and rare as hen's teeth. Check the engine mounting bolts have been inspected and / or changed as to replace the top pair is a fuel tank out job if there is a forward fuel tank. Not a problem on the models with wing tanks only obviously.
Check the condition of the undercarriage bungees by removing the aluminium pressing in front of the seats. They aren't a problem to replace but it'll cost you around £200 to do it once you have located someone with a bungee fitting tool..... (I know someone who has one in the Herts area).
As with all aircraft with control cables, check them for fraying or polishing (the stage just before they start to fray) where they travel through guides or over pulleys.
Apart from the above, virtually all of which applies to any fabric covered taildragger and most ally covered aeroplanes, they are a simple, cheap (in aviation terms) to maintain and run, fun to fly aeroplane. I prefer mine to the L4 Cub I had before it.
Hope I didn't take up too much bandwidth there BRL
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: New South Wales
Why don't you join the International Auster Club? They're very helpful.
And there'll be all the Austers in Britain to inspect at Kemble on the 2nd weekend in May, I suspect. Make sure you bring a bottle green jumper and have oil-stained hands and grease-embedded fingernails. You'll fit in fine, then. ;-)
QDM
And there'll be all the Austers in Britain to inspect at Kemble on the 2nd weekend in May, I suspect. Make sure you bring a bottle green jumper and have oil-stained hands and grease-embedded fingernails. You'll fit in fine, then. ;-)
QDM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 30
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From: Great White North
Canadian Auster 6
I came across the following advertisement:
"1948 Beagle Auster A61 ex RCAF Auster VI. Airframe: 1430 hrs TT, rebuilt 1987. Engine: Gypsy Major Mk. 10, 690 hrs TT (117 hrs STOH). Propeller: Faiey Reed (metal), 427 hrs. Skis: Northwest Industries (wood), tail ski metal".
Any feedback appreciated. Specific questions: How difficult is it to get parts for airframe and engine? Is the Mk. 10 a decent engine?
Thanks!
"1948 Beagle Auster A61 ex RCAF Auster VI. Airframe: 1430 hrs TT, rebuilt 1987. Engine: Gypsy Major Mk. 10, 690 hrs TT (117 hrs STOH). Propeller: Faiey Reed (metal), 427 hrs. Skis: Northwest Industries (wood), tail ski metal".
Any feedback appreciated. Specific questions: How difficult is it to get parts for airframe and engine? Is the Mk. 10 a decent engine?
Thanks!
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,077
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From: Oop North, UK
BlueRobin- Has your Chap flown the Auster? Though loved by some it is not an aircraft that everyone adores.
Canadian Luscombe - I think you will find the Mk10 is the engine normally fitted to the Chippie so should be ok for spares.
Canadian Luscombe - I think you will find the Mk10 is the engine normally fitted to the Chippie so should be ok for spares.
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Niort
The best clue on whether to buy a particular Auster is probably the stock of spare parts that comes with it!
The last ADs were issued donkey's years ago (apart from inspection of fabric aircraft a latter generic D on all fabric machines). Most of these old ADs should have been dealt with moons ago - but it leads on to the spares.
Brake backplates, particularly the starboard one, are hard to get hold of, anyone who really flies and looks after their machine will have spares, ditto rocker box gaskets, seals for the pushrods, brake shoes.
The metal props are a bit coarse for strip performance but offer good cruising, the belly tank is a near essential unless you live in the south or do not travel any real distance.
The aircraft is very simple and built like an outhouse. There are noisy but honest sort of machines. Try a couple before you buy.
Make sure the Gypsy has had the 'ring conversion' which dramatically reduces oil consumption (for future reference make sure you know which conversion - getting the right replacement rings is a nightmare otherwise).
Remember you'll spend at least as much time re-tightening and claning things as you will flying!!!
Happy landings
The last ADs were issued donkey's years ago (apart from inspection of fabric aircraft a latter generic D on all fabric machines). Most of these old ADs should have been dealt with moons ago - but it leads on to the spares.
Brake backplates, particularly the starboard one, are hard to get hold of, anyone who really flies and looks after their machine will have spares, ditto rocker box gaskets, seals for the pushrods, brake shoes.
The metal props are a bit coarse for strip performance but offer good cruising, the belly tank is a near essential unless you live in the south or do not travel any real distance.
The aircraft is very simple and built like an outhouse. There are noisy but honest sort of machines. Try a couple before you buy.
Make sure the Gypsy has had the 'ring conversion' which dramatically reduces oil consumption (for future reference make sure you know which conversion - getting the right replacement rings is a nightmare otherwise).
Remember you'll spend at least as much time re-tightening and claning things as you will flying!!!
Happy landings
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,681
Likes: 10
From: Just South of the last ice sheet
Canadian Luscombe is that the lovely looking yellow Auster on the Auster Club website? If so, it sounds (and looks) like a good machine.
BlueRobin is your pal a member of the PFA? If he is then getting a tame PFA Inspector to give any prospective purchase a once over is a good idea even if the Auster concerned isn't on a PFA Permit. I'd be more than happy to have a look at an Auster if your mate wants to but it would only be in an advisory capacity as my engineering qualifications don't extend to airyplanes
If the prospective purchase doesn't have the "oil ring mod" fully documented and preferably carried out by one of the "names" (Vintec, Norvic etc), steer well clear as incorporating the mod can get expensive......
Dam sperling......
BlueRobin is your pal a member of the PFA? If he is then getting a tame PFA Inspector to give any prospective purchase a once over is a good idea even if the Auster concerned isn't on a PFA Permit. I'd be more than happy to have a look at an Auster if your mate wants to but it would only be in an advisory capacity as my engineering qualifications don't extend to airyplanes
If the prospective purchase doesn't have the "oil ring mod" fully documented and preferably carried out by one of the "names" (Vintec, Norvic etc), steer well clear as incorporating the mod can get expensive......
Dam sperling......
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 30
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From: Great White North
Canadian Luscombe, is that the lovely looking yellow Auster on the Auster Club website?
If so, it sounds (and looks) like a good machine.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Deepest Warwickshire
Bit worry is parts and engines spares. With DHC and past English colobaroration, in theory it's less of a problem. For example, How many aircraft, e.g. Chipmunks, still run on Gispsies in CA?
Although I believe Auster can be converted to Lycoming or RR O-200.
Although I believe Auster can be converted to Lycoming or RR O-200.
