GoPro Camera Housings

[Steevo25]

Hi All,

I have just purchased a GoPro Hero 3+ Black Edition. All is good with the camera and I have a place where I am going to mount it. But I want to put permanent aircraft power to it and am intending to buy the NFlightCam kit which allows it to connect to the audio system and provides an aviator lens to minimise prop distortion.

But looking at it, all the mounting kits require the waterproof housing that comes with it. I cannot seem to see a way that I can mount it using the supplied accessories and also get in to the side of it so that cables can be connected. I have looked around for other mounts and they all seem to rely on the fact that you will be using the waterproof housing.

Three questions really, how do you mount it without using the waterproof housing, is the aviator lens kit any good and do all the accessories for the HERO3 fit the HERO3+ as most specify for the HERO3 not the plus?

Many thanks in advance.

[localflighteast]

I had to get a skeleton case for my go pro 2 ,
this fits exactly the same as the waterproof but has the sides cut out

other option is a dremel and a steady hand

[BackPacker]

You'll need to buy the "skeleton" housing. This is the same as the waterproof housing, with the same two-prong connector underneath. But it's got cutouts at strategic places so that you can access the A/V in/out ports.

And obviously it's not waterproof...

http://gopro.com/camera-accessories/...eleton-housing
HERO3 Skeleton Housing

The aviator lens kit is essentially a Neutral Density filter. This removes a certain % of all visible light and that forces the GoPro to use a longer shutter speed to get the same exposure. The result of that is that the prop becomes blurred instead of distorted.

I have not tried the Nflightcam Aviator Lens Kit, but in general, results with an ND filter are quite good, provided you have the right filter for the light conditions. However, it seems to me you should be able to get sheets of ND filter material, so you can cut them to size and insert them between the GoPro and the housing, for far less than 80 dollars.

[flydive1]

Get the Frame

GoPro Frame Mount | The smallest, lightest way to mount your HERO3

[BackPacker]

I wonder if that frame is strong and stiff enough to be used in a moving vehicle without rattling. It looks pretty flimsy. Personally I'd spend the extra money and get the skeleton housing.

Then again, I've never used it so it might just work OK.

[Zulu Alpha]

Try getting some neutral density filter and putting some externally in front of the lens. I found you need about 5% transmission ie cutting out 95% of the light to blur the prop. It works best on a bright day.

This is the modified housing that allows the cables to be plugged in through the case

Protective Housing Case & Suction Cup Mount & Car Charger for Gopro HD Hero 3 | eBay

I purchased this GoPro mount. Holds it much more rigid than the GoPro plastic arm so you don't get the wobbly jelly effect.
Aluminum tripod mount+Knob+Tool+HotShoe Mount Adapter(Blue) GoPro Hero3 Hero2 | eBay


There are a few other useful GoPro bits

GoPro Frame Mount Tripod Cradle for Gopro HD Hero 3 Series Cameras l | eBay

Metal Aluminium GoPro HERO 3 Housing Case Frame Tripod Mount DSLR Rig | eBay

[riverrock83]

The obvious solution is to go for:
Nflightcam GoPro Cockpit Kit
which includes a mounting stand (so no skeleton kit needed), av cables and ND filter in one box.

Is it any good? No idea - don't own one!

[BWBI]

Doe's any of this stuff fit with the earlier HD Hero series?

[Steevo25]

Thank you very much everyone.

I didn't realise there was so much around for them. There is definitely a solution there for me.

[Fitter2]

With a sheet of photochromatic material of the right characteristic, it would self adjust to any lighting condition; unfortunately I don't have the time to do the experiments.

Before someone patents the idea, I published it here first.....

[F4TCT]

I use a suction mount (new type) and have the thing just above the dash on a PA28.

However, i have the camera in its bare form with no case, however ive noticed a horrendous overheating issue as soon as the sun shines on it.

Anyone else had this issue and what are the solutions?

Thought about wrapping it in foil shiny side out to reflect the rays - obviously a bad idea as its no doubt going to affect my vision.

Dan

[riverrock83]

Originally Posted by Fitter2

With a sheet of photochromatic material of the right characteristic, it would self adjust to any lighting condition; unfortunately I don't have the time to do the experiments.

Before someone patents the idea, I published it here first.....

If photochromatic glasses are anything to go by, plexiglass absort UV rays and so they don't change properly when in the cockpit, so probably not an option.

And no - the cases changed between hero 2 and hero 3 so you need to get gear that is specific to your model.

[Odai]

To be honest, I wouldn't even bother buying the overpriced skeleton housing.

Just do what I did with mine - take the standard waterproof housing and drill/dremel holes in the side to be able to access the appropriate ports. I knew I'd never need to take my camera into an environment where the waterproof case would be remotely useful - and if I ever do change my mind I can just buy a new waterproof case for the same price it would have cost me to get a skeleton one.

Just remember - measure twice, cut once. Something I learned the hard way!

[ktcy152]

GoPro Frame mount

I have used it in a C 172 with no issues.( Gopro frame mount) you can also get a skeleton frame pretty expensive. You do need a ND filter to stop the jello effect and blur of the prop.

[Steevo25]

Thank you all for your replies.

In the end I did purchase a few bits but unfortunately, the bits for the HERO3 do not seem to fit the HERO3+.

The skeleton housing that I got did not line up with the lens hole no matter how much I tried so had to be returned. The NFlightCam aviation lenses also did not fit. I did keep them but I have to use Blue-tack to hold them on as they are slightly bigger than the HERO3+ lens housing so don't clip on.

I have also ordered the cockpit set which contains the audio cable and lens but that is out of stock until mid-December so I will see if that fits when it comes.

[liam548]

Originally Posted by riverrock83

The obvious solution is to go for:
Nflightcam GoPro Cockpit Kit
which includes a mounting stand (so no skeleton kit needed), av cables and ND filter in one box.

Is it any good? No idea - don't own one!

This is what I went for, no case but you can connect it to standard mounts with this and get full access.


Anyone know of any leads that I could buy to enable charging and audio input at the same time on the go pro 3+ black? Is there such a thing as this kind of splitter?


Liam

[letpmar]

Go Pro

Please have a good look at the stock go pro housings before you buy and take almost all advise so far with a pinch of salt. Non of the standard. Doors or cases allow access to any of the connectors on the camera. Some of the e bay generic ones have holes in the side to allow this. You can do a lot with a dremel though as has been said. I don't know anything about the non standard mounts that have been mentioned aimed at pilots or whoever but again make sure that if you want to access is possible to the connectors. I make specialist leads for the GoPro as part of my business so have looked at this a lot. Most people could knock something up just check before you spend money.

Ps
One slight lie. The new housings that just rap around the sides of the camera do allow access to the 30 pin connector in the back. If you can solder I can give you the pin out diagram.

[YODI]

Is the waterproof case it comes with, coupled with a suction mount ok external mounting on a plane?

[GK430]

Does anyone seriously use the suction pad externally on an aircraft in flight?
I met a guy in the Caribbean who did once. Very successful for the first half of the flight, however it was not present on landing

I have a Hero 2, bought the original 3 which was a nightmare and returned two to the supplier, however I had bought a battery Bac pack.
Now have a Black 3+ which is excellent in all respects, however I need a new case back as the one supplied does not close with the additional battery pack.

The original 3 used to seriously overheat in warm ambient temps, but the 3+ copes much better.

[Lone_Ranger]

On thing to be aware of regarding the ND filter...if you are mounting in cockpit and you have a tinted screen, there is a fair chance you dont need a filter anyway.

I get perfect results shooting through my screen with no filter (prop blurs)