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Starter Motor Sticking

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Old 5th March 2006 | 14:34
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From: UK
Starter Motor Sticking

Hi,

A bit out of my depth here, but would like to understand the theory, so hence the question.

The starter on our syndicate 152 jammed yesterday. A turn of the prop re-engaged it and it has started fine since. I have heard about this happening before. What I'd like to know is the cause and if it should be treated as a major defect which grounds the aircrfat or a minor defect which can be looked at during the next 50 hr check.

Thanks for any advice.

Goose.
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Old 5th March 2006 | 14:50
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When you say jammed what do you mean?
mad_jock is offline  
Old 5th March 2006 | 17:01
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From: Scotland
If it is the share I think it is, then I was the one behind the yoke at the time... Basically, when I went to start up, I would energise the starter motor, and as that occurred, the prop would be shunted about one inch and then stop. I then returned the key left to both mags, and then went to start again, the same thing happened, the prop got shunted slightly. With everything off, turning the prop resulted in an unhealthy rattly sound. One of the guys who came to help push our stricken craft up the hill, turned the prop anticlockwise slightly and said he heard a click. He said to attempted starting again, and I did so, no problems whatsoever. The aircraft flew today and had no problems. I do not understand why the starter would have disconnected or whatever, but it occurred after a failed initial start, where the engine caught slightly then died. When I went to try again after another prime, the starter was not engaging properly. It was as if the teeth were not connecting between the starter and the crankshaft disc.

I am not very knowledgeable about the technicalities of how the starter operates, but I understand that energising the starter motor connects the starter disc with a disc on the crankshaft using interconnecting teeth and thus the engine is rotated. As far as I know, the teeth were not connecting together.

Ridgerunner
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Old 5th March 2006 | 17:12
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From: Norfolk UK
On many engines of most makes, the starter is engaged with a Bendix gear which pushes to engage the crank gear as the starter is energised.
Sometimes the Bendix gear sticks,and rocking the crank back and forwards will release the gear,sounds like this is what happened with you but I may be wrong.
you don't want this happenenig as it is a nuisance,and possibly dangerous if you need an engine re-start in the air ,so it would probably be wise to have it checked to see if there is some dirt on the starter shaft.
lister
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Old 5th March 2006 | 17:59
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Like all Lycoming engines the starter and the Bendix drive is open to all the rain wind snow and anything else that might come in the front cowling.
The Bendix drive needs bringing forward and cleaning and relubricating.
DO NOT USE OIL.
There is a special silicon based spray to stop this problem. Check with your maintenance oraginisation.

Cheers
L
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Old 5th March 2006 | 18:09
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From: north of barlu
L-Band has the answer, for more details of the correct lubricants read Lycoming SI 1278.
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Old 5th March 2006 | 21:40
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Unfortunately, I occassionaly have to fly an aeroplane where the Bendix sticks, it is not mine! It really is more nuisance than anything else - you've primed it properly, by the time the prop is eventually coaxed into life, it requires re-priming!


Lister, old chum, tell me when you'd expect to engage the starter in the air?

Stik
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Old 6th March 2006 | 07:28
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Many thanks for the information guys. Another one of the joys of aircraft ownership We'll get the Bendix drive cleaned and lubricated at the next check. It's only ever happened once, so hopefully it won't become too much of a nuisance for us.

Goose.
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Old 6th March 2006 | 07:52
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Make sure the maintenance bods clean it and don't try to talk you into fitting a new one. The last time I bought one (for a C-150 with an O-200 engine in 1995ish) it cost me the thick end of £350 + VAT for a part that would have cost £30 if it was fitted to a Ford
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Old 6th March 2006 | 09:30
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From: UK
Originally Posted by LowNSlow
Make sure the maintenance bods clean it and don't try to talk you into fitting a new one. The last time I bought one (for a C-150 with an O-200 engine in 1995ish) it cost me the thick end of £350 + VAT for a part that would have cost £30 if it was fitted to a Ford
Thanks for that. We have some issues with our maitenance costs just now, so it helps greatly knowing exactly what's wrong and what's needed to fix it. I'm sure they would be only too pleased to convince us we needed a new unit

Goose.
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Old 6th March 2006 | 09:59
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From: Norfolk UK
Originally Posted by stiknruda
Lister, old chum, tell me when you'd expect to engage the starter in the air?
Stik
Stik, old esteemed bean,
I was talking from my car experiences,several of which have been airborne!
Seriously though,does the prop always windmill on power failure?
Lister
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Old 6th March 2006 | 11:01
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From: Norfolk
Lister,

Generally the prop windmills - I've only ever had one stop on me but that was doing competition aerobatics at Sandtoft a few years ago. IIRC I wrote an account for Pprune.

http://www.pprune.org/forums/showthr...=prop%2C+music

The stopped prop was a very lightweight wooden one bolted to a hi compression IO360.

I've shut down a couple (well, half a dozen) whilst flying twins and it is quite disconcerting looking out the side at stationary feathered blades!!

Obviously 'cos they are feathered the starter is needed to turn them over.

Stik

Last edited by stiknruda; 6th March 2006 at 11:14.
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Old 6th March 2006 | 11:13
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From: TL487591
Obviously 'cos they are feathered the starter is needed to turn them over.
Unless like many, they are fitted with unfeathering accumulators. One of those gotchas that everybody should ask before taking a twin into the air.
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Old 6th March 2006 | 11:33
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A sticking starter motor? Isn't that what hammers were invented for?
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Old 6th March 2006 | 12:50
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Gizajob
 
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Adjusting hammers are for hitting Tiger Moth mags with to free sticky impulse units I think
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