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Bathroom tile cutting

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Bathroom tile cutting

Old 22nd Aug 2021, 15:25
  #21 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: UK
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Did my Bathroom and separate downstairs loo successfully. Trick is to measure, measure and measure again for luck.
my tiles were 600 mm and a manual tile cutter went well, also bought 10 spare cutting wheels ...cheap as chips and no dust, changed after abouit every 15 tiles that needed cutting.
Bought a carbide tile saw was for the tiles that needed shaped cuts
and a 20mm Tile drill for the water pipes that protruded for the toilet and shower
All in all was well impressed with my job but as retired person time was not a issue
All in all tiles grout tools bath toilet basin taps floorong lights mirror came to £1200. Had estimates from 3 builders and that was c£5k
My job was not perfect but would pass muster unless a close inspection and took about 6 weeks on and off.
Oh and measure again ....
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Old 22nd Aug 2021, 19:01
  #22 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: U.K
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The cheap cutting tables really do a good job but are slow, Iíve always found hiring a professional one makes the job easier with better results.
if itís just a simple straight cut hiring a score and snap Rubi or equivalent does the job speedily.
Depends on type of tile you cutting though, right tool for job!
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Old 22nd Aug 2021, 20:12
  #23 (permalink)  
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regarding getting a professional in to do the job, that's where we started from. We had a couple of chaps come around to do quotes for doing a bathroom make over. They did, eye watering sums both of them. After reminding ourselves how the last tiling job I did turned out and my woodworking, plumbing, wiring and painting abilities we decided that I should have a go at rebuilding the small en-suite shower room. If that turns out well I will be tasked with doing the aformentioned bathroom. Being "without gainful employ" I am time rich and cash poor right now so I am cracking on with it.

Back to tile cutting and the posts above. I have a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder and recently bought a diamond cutting disc for it. The tool is a mains powered one and is of an age where nobody would have considered using it with water cooling/dust control....... Probably not a good idea.

Will the diamond cutting disc have a really short life if used dry?

On balance, I think the score and crack tile cutter may be the best way forwards. I can cut the necessary circular holes for the loo pipes by chain drilling and breaking between. Everything which needs odd shaped cuts is hidden behind something else, the wall mounted loo covers the tiles where the flush and sewer pipes come through and the flush plate (concealed cistern) hides the edges of the tiles where the flushing linkage enters the tank. The electric shower unit hides the holes where the power and water comes through the tiles inside the shower cubicle.

Rans6................
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Old 22nd Aug 2021, 20:38
  #24 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
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I would steer clear of chain drilling if you can, the first 6 holes done, the tile will always break on the penultimate hole!

Regarding your question, I often use an angle grinder for cutting shapes in tiles, if it is dry, then no problem apart from the dust.
The better blade to use is a diamond blade that is serrated and looks like it has about 15 teeth.
Not sure why they work better.

I regularly use a tile scribe on an overhead tile cutter even along the full length of a 600mm tile.
Works far quicker than my water tile cutting table.
The point that people always get wrong is that they really try to scratch a deep grove in the tile before breaking - this never gets a clean cut.
You should only mark it with 1-2 scores, there is less chance of a mistake and parallel lines, the tile will break accurately almost 100% of the time.

It would seem that I have remodelled a bathroom every year for the last 6 years! (Still have 3 to go and starting another tomorrow).
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Old 22nd Aug 2021, 21:27
  #25 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
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Can you rent a wet tile saw? Some flooring specialty stores will rent professional quality wet tile saws for a nominal sum - especially if you bought the tiles from them. That was the route I was planning to take when I re-did the bath in my old family home in Colorado about 10 years ago. But then my sister referred the guy that had done the tile in her bathroom, and the quote he gave me was so good it wasn't worth my time to do it myself (plus he did a better job than I ever good). Watching him use his wet tile saw was what convinced me that was the only way to go.
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Old 22nd Aug 2021, 22:01
  #26 (permalink)  
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Heh heh . . . define 'Awesome'.

It's all about liking what you're doing. The tiny en suite in the Texas house was far more difficult than the big rooms. Getting the old fibreglass shower with seat out necessitated buying a Bosch reciprocating saw. The big one. Built like a boat, I considered taking out the wall that surrounded it. Just making my ar$e fit while I was working was a serious challenge.

The Frinton bathroom was going okay. Pasting the tiles meant running up my little kitchen steppy-stool a million times, but was fit then. Paste paste paste, step step step, stick. Paste etc. CRASH. I was lying in a pile of stuff that seems to congregate everywhere I work. I don't have industrial accidents. I run along the ridges of untiled roofs in trainers that are so worn my bunions show. What the hell am I doing on the floor? Oh. It was over where the bath was going, and I'd drilled the floor with pipe holes. I'd put a leg of my trusty stool square over one of the holes.

I put a loo and washbasin in near the front door. I built the half height extension with extraordinary care. When I came to tile it, getting it accurate was a breeze. I'm going to boast now. But I'm old, so I'll excuse myself. A rep stopped and looked at the 100% tiled little room. He said he'd done a full C&G in the trade and couldn't have done better. Problem is, I take far more time than a professional.

Vertical lines are obvious, but sticking to them is another issue. I recall getting a zig zag once and pulling the tiles and washing them. Most general DIY work is to half a mil, but really, tiles have to be this at worst - and quickly corrected.

One day I found an excuse to ring on my old doorbell. I stood at the door talking to the purchaser and managed to suppress a gasp as I noticed the tiles were gone. Just a blue wash finish. I hadn't even got over the ripping out of my oak panelling. My small den had taken a thousand quid's worth of American and Chinese oak and six weeks work. The Rivetess told me one day that she'd passed the house and there was a pile of broken oak on the front drive. I walked by pretending not to look, and sure enough, the walls were bare.



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Old 23rd Aug 2021, 00:32
  #27 (permalink)  

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Originally Posted by rans6andrew View Post
On balance, I think the score and crack tile cutter may be the best way forwards.
yes.
Work out the layout and find a pro tool rental shop.

Then take your tiles to the shop with you, as they will be only 5-7 to cut longitudinally. Bring a box of nice coffee and pack of smokes along.

Show one of the tiles at the facility, asking for advice which tool to pick and eventually admitting you'll be returning it pronto as you brought all the tiles and it is a handful of cuts anyway. Carrying the whole bench home and doing the second car trip just makes no sense.

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afterwards say polite goodbye, handover the presents and make sure to post a nice review on Google maps and Trust pilot.
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Old 23rd Aug 2021, 01:51
  #28 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
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In no particular order..

[email protected] level. Fantastic gear for tiling.

I much prefer the integrated leveling/spacing devices, rather than a seperate spacer and separate leveler.
they generally have a little plate that sits behind the tile (can be edge, T or 4-corner) with a little spindle that screws into them. The plate behind sets the gap as there are purpose built ridges in it, and a spindle tightens down on the tile, pulling on the plate thus leveling the edges/corners (as appropriate to where you placed them).
they can be a bit more fiddly, especially with hands covered in tile adhesive but a nearby bucket of water and old rags solves that.

score and snap works well. Get a reasonable cutter, it’ll save heartache. Done up to 600x600mm on those, not hard.

plan, plan, plan your job. Even sketch it out in scale form. Know how you want to lay them out, and how they’ll work with features such as pipes etc before you start laying them down.

start at the centre of the walls/floors and tile towards the edge.

bring the vertical tile onto the horizontal tile. Ie put the floor out to the edge, and bring the wall tile down onto it, rather than tiling the wall to floor level first then bringing the floor tile against the wall tile. I presume this reduces the chances of any pooled water getting through the join where the wall/floor meets.

watch LOTS and LOTS of YouTube on tiling, grouting and siliconing. Plenty of basics there; differing opinions sometimes yes, but it’ll give you a bunch of different ideas and techniques to start with.

Buy extra tiles. 10% more than you need isn’t a bad starting point. You will have breakage at some point. The ones you don’t use can be kept as spares in case one gets damaged later in life.

on your first attempt just keep it simple, go for about a 300x300 or 400x400. Working with bigger will be a challenge. Working with small tiles will be a challenge too.
Bigger tiles also mean less grouting, a job which isn’t the easiest for a first timer either- well, to get nice and smooth and uniform anyway.

do just a square pattern, rather than subway style or herringbone. Once again, simple. Maybe not as fancy but simple and easier. If you want to fancy it up you can get feature tiles that come in strips on a mesh backing, or use a different style/colour tile for a wall.

id highly recommend doing your best to line up the grout lines between the wall and floor. This is where the planning comes in a bit. seeing an offset between the wall and floor grout lines when they could have been so easily aligned is just ugh....

don’t be afraid to rip out the silicone or grout if your not happy with how you’ve done it before it sets. Practice and patience is key with these parts of the job.
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Old 23rd Aug 2021, 06:30
  #29 (permalink)  
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Will the diamond cutting disc have a really short life if used dry?
Not really a problem, I tiled the pantry floor recently, about 30 cuts of 400mm square tiles, blade still going strong at the end, and it had already been used cutting bricks. As mentioned above the ones with gaps in the perimeter seem a little better at cutting than the solid rims. Good going for something that costs less than a tenner.
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