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Right to repair

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Right to repair

Old 21st Mar 2021, 12:08
  #101 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Reading, UK
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Originally Posted by tdracer View Post
I had a Maytag washing machine that I really liked, but it started acting up - occasionally it would simply stop mid-load, and with a tub full of water I couldn't move it to access it to work on it. But if I unplugged it and waited overnight it would come back to life. I eventually traced the problem to a small printed circuit board - I could remove and clean the board and it's contacts, and it would work for a few weeks, but then start acting up again. I was able to find a replacement circuit board on-line, but it cost nearly as much as a new washer (over $300) - with no guarantee that the problem wouldn't come back.
So I broke down and bought a new washing machine - it works OK but I hate it. The new machines are all 'energy and water efficient' and won't let you set the water level manually - worse, for 'safety', the lid locks as soon as it starts - you can't open the lid to add more clothes without doing a full cycle reset (which drains the tub) - PITA!
So it's not true about the Maytag Repair Man ... ?
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Old 21st Mar 2021, 13:10
  #102 (permalink)  

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Our washing machine is less than 9 months old but a week ago it suddenly refused to spin and the drain pump kept on running. My suspicion was that the water level sensor was faulty and the "brain" continually thought that the drum had water in it. Rather than wait weeks for a warranty repair man to come out (by which time I'd have severe earache and no clean clothes), I decided I'd better have a look. Opening the casing is like solving a puzzle - a moulding at the rear of the top has to be partly dismantled, by removing a combination of screws and hidden clips and then the top board (plastic faced chipboard), with some effort, slides out rearwards of the side mouldings, despite it all looking like one piece.

I easily found the sensor (sitting right at the top front of the casing), recognised because it has a clear plastic pipe and a triple wire plug connected to it. I removed it, blew and sucked the pipe connector stub, hoping to free up the innards. Put it all back together - success. I've gone from zero to hero, especially as I've spent the last couple of days getting through the washing pile.
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Old 21st Mar 2021, 13:17
  #103 (permalink)  
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What's your call out rate?
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Old 21st Mar 2021, 14:32
  #104 (permalink)  

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I’ve just decided to retire from the trade.....
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Old 22nd Mar 2021, 02:38
  #105 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
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I learned the hard way that it's not worth bothering to try to fix washing machines and the like. After a $150 or so call-out charge, SOP was to replace the most expensive part - typically the pump - even though this had nothing to do with the problem. After another visit they would dclare it unfixable. Easier and cheaper just to buy a new one without even trying to fix it. Really annoying but life is short...

I had a Panasonic pocket camera that became unusable because the zoom lever became intermittent. I found dismantling instructions online and tried to fix it, but in the end the switch is inaccessible. It was impossible to reassemble, the factory must have a bunch of jigs which of course I didn't. In particular there are connectors which are just the end of a ribbon cable that slides into a "socket" - the bigger ones can't be plugged in with normal tools. I spent a couple of hours, say $200 at normal technician rates, before giving up and spending $300 on a new camera. A perfectly good Zeiss lens gone to waste, but what can you do?

I sold my much-loved 2004 Audi TT VR6 before leaving the US. It was developing a bunch of minor faults - e.g. the remote locking stopped working - which the garage (a good, trustworthy outfit) told me was due to old-age decay of the central instrument cluster. Audi don't make them any more, so when it finally died the car would become scrap. I was very happy to get a few $1000s for it.
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Old 22nd Mar 2021, 05:16
  #106 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Asia
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There's a noticeable difference in outlook between the older and younger generations regarding repairs. For the older lot, stuff was expensive and built to last back in our day. If something went wrong it was usually repairable, however colour TVs were so expensive and unreliable that people hired them and simply called Radio Rentals when they went wrong, and go wrong they did as the advice was to unplug them at night incase they caught fire.

The younger lot have grown up with disposable consumer products, a mobile phone will go about three years and a laptop slightly longer. If a flat screen TV goes wrong, unless it's something simple such as the power supply, it's junked and a replacement bought. I remember seeing my first flat screen in a shop in Tottenham Court Road in the early 1990s, it cost £30 000, yes thirty thousand pounds. Now I can easily buy a vastly better one for 2-3% of what the first generation cost.

Small items such as irons, toasters and kettles are either impossible to repair or uneconomic as their value is so low in relation to a service technician's time. Larger items may be worth repairing if fairly new and the fault is relatively minor, however you can soon end up throwing good money after bad with a major fault on an older appliance.
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Old 22nd Mar 2021, 08:40
  #107 (permalink)  
 
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@ tdracer, get yourself one of these, (below): If a sock or a something forgot to get in to the wash after it has started, you press the start button: the machine pauses and displays 'yes' and unlocks the door. Or simply turn the program knob to OFF : the machine will stop and reset without doing anything - it will not drain the water, and after a few seconds, will unlock the door*. You put in the errant sock, turn the program dial to where it was, and press START again. The machine will have a think about it, realise that the drum is already full and recommence the wash from where it left off.

*It uses so little water that the level is well below the door seal for normal washes, so you normally don't need to pump out before opening the door.

@ cattletruck, the same machine pictured allows you to turn the program switch to OFF at any time, so you can cut short a spin cycle if you wish.

As I have said and ShyTorque shows; usually it is an electrical interconnection or an electromechanical component that goes wrong or jams, and if one is an engineer you can fix it. Very rarely is it the actual electronics - unless the board has been covered in water or dust or fluff. A few hours of my time is preferable to getting a white van man in who will no doubt tell you that the master board or the pump will need replacing because it is the most expensive part and he gets a nice profit margin in selling you a new one - whereas, the actual fault will be a bad connection or a blocked valve, costing a few quid.

@ n5296s You might try the WD40 electrical contact cleaner spray - NOT standard WD40 spray; they now do a range of other sprays. Squirt a tiny bit onto the connector with the thin pipe they supply - even if you can't separate the joint. Then wiggle the joint as much as you can, (but gently, not violently !). Some of the spray should get into the electrical connections and might restore the circuit. Worth a try.

I am seriously considering starting up as a handyman engineer, until the airline industry recovers.



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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 09:40
  #108 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
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Edit to add: It's called Reload:

Never miss an item again. Reload by Bosch.

A missed sock or towel? Nevermind. When was the last time, you loaded the washing machine, started the wash cycle and then realised that something important had been missed out? The Reload function lets you simply add missed items or remove clothes during a wash cycle*. Just pause the running cycle and open the door, to simply reload the missed items into the drum and continue the wash.
(*For safety, reloading is only possible when the water temperature is no higher than 50°C or when the water level is not too high.)
You can also modify the spin speed from 400 to 1400 rpm for any wash, including a no spin, drain only option.

A good bit of kit (I don't work for Bosch).
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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 10:39
  #109 (permalink)  
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I can usually pause my Hotpoint within about 20 or 30 seconds of pressing start to add a reluctant sock - after that it has to wait for the next load...
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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 11:39
  #110 (permalink)  

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All the recent machines we've owned have allowed the door to be opened after a time delay holding circuit has operated. I feel certain that the lock has to do this if the machine is switched off - otherwise how would you rescue over-adventurous kittens and small children without putting them through an entire wash and spin cycle? (Why bother some will no doubt ask... ).
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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 11:40
  #111 (permalink)  
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I'd rescue a kitten...
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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 12:56
  #112 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
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The old Hoover Keymatic was one of the first washing machines in widespread use. Eight mechanical programmes on the card but no dryer. The main problem was that the sloping drum meant that the drum bearing was below the water level. When the seal leaked the bearing would fail.
Easy enough to replace.





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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 13:21
  #113 (permalink)  
 
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I have a very nice brass tide clock, probably from Nauticalia. It's stopped working i.e the second hand rotates but the others don't. Probably wear in the little plastic wheels inside the works.

Replacement at the cheapest is £99.00 and the same model is about £150.00..

I've fixed (and built from scratch) electric clocks in the past and the innards are available from loads of places and only a couple of quid, which is about what I want to spend as I don't need the big chunk of bras replacing. But can I find a 1.5 V AA battery tide clock mechanism anywhere ?
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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 15:09
  #114 (permalink)  
 
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Amazon Amazon

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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 16:34
  #115 (permalink)  
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I bought a watch from an estate sale for a dollar

I knew it didn't work, but I though it might be fun to play around with, to try to get it to work as it was a Casio that read the broadcast time from Fort Collins so allegedly never needed resetting

The first thing I did for my one dollar watch was to buy a five dollar battery, but it did get it working

But then I realised it had previously been owned by a gorilla so I had to buy a thing to adjust the watchband ... another six dollars

I'm not too fussed about the price escalating twelve fold as it still wasn't much and it was an interesting project, AND it eventually worked. No the thing that bothers me is that I don't wear a watch
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Old 23rd Mar 2021, 16:43
  #116 (permalink)  
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I've had those 24 inch Bosch washers and dryers for ages now and love them. I'm on my third set, not because I needed to change, but because you can pick them up fairly cheaply on craigslist from time to time

The first set I replaced the brushes in the motor and got it working, but eventually the dryer just got rally loud. I palmed those off on craigslist and bought another set, for about the same price

That one was fine and a little newer, but I think that someone had picked up the washer by the open door as it was slightly off and leaked a little, but oddly, not for long. The dryer was a condensation one, which is ok, but I prefer the 'normal' type and have a vent close by

I happened to look on craigslist again and saw a set at a great price, negotiated it, then went to pick them up, only to find that they didn't just stack, but also included a little pull out table between the units to fold clothes on. They were also slightly newer and much better than my set #2, which of course went on craigslist and sold fairly quickly

There was also another very new dryer that I picked up and later sold because the wife preferred the older one . . .

. . . so if you do the maths, my washer and dryer were actually free!


btw, they use an FD number for the serial number and if you go online you can find how to decode that into the manufacturing date (add 20 to the first two digits for YY and use the second two for MM, so FD 9203 xxxxx would have been made in March 2012)
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Old 25th Mar 2021, 13:50
  #117 (permalink)  
 
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Thanks IBMJunkman but that's where I started. I need a 4 hand driver to fix one of these ... Brass 'Bridge' Tide Clock at Nauticalia - Shop Online. preferably for about £175 less than a new one.
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Old 25th Mar 2021, 14:02
  #118 (permalink)  

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Originally Posted by ZFT View Post
I unfortunately own a Samsung 65 inch all singing and dancing bloody expensive TV less than 5 years old.

Nothing wrong with the TV but the One Connect box that links this TV to the outside world is stuffed. Samsung can't fix it or replace it.

Last Samsung product I will buy and hope others take note.
We have a Samsung so called “Smart” TV. Again, ours needs a Wi-fi connection to become smart. A full reset sometimes results in it coming out of “Dumb” mode but never for longer than about twenty minutes, when it point blank fails to connect, even if in use at the time...it just locks up. Similar problem I think.
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Old 25th Mar 2021, 14:23
  #119 (permalink)  
 
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Originally Posted by ShyTorque View Post
We have a Samsung so called “Smart” TV. Again, ours needs a Wi-fi connection to become smart. A full reset sometimes results in it coming out of “Dumb” mode but never for longer than about twenty minutes, when it point blank fails to connect, even if in use at the time...it just locks up. Similar problem I think.
Same here with our Samsung dumb TV.
Amazon fire TVs seem to be working fine for a longer period of time, they only need a complete re-start every fortnight or so...
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Old 27th Mar 2021, 09:20
  #120 (permalink)  
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Years ago I had a Riello (oil) boiler. If anything went wrong, quick trip
to the repairman, who usually would refuse to attend, and instead sell me the part.
Now I have a modern boiler, also Riello. Burner looks the same. If anything goes wrong
it needs a lengthy reset procedure involving allan keys.
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