Binocs
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Binocs
I'd like to buy a good quality set of binoculars to use from the flightdeck en-route.
I know only the basics when it comes to binoculars so some advise as to what I should be on the look out for would be appreciated.
Note to moderator: If this belongs somewhere else please put it in the right place - thanks.
I know only the basics when it comes to binoculars so some advise as to what I should be on the look out for would be appreciated.
Note to moderator: If this belongs somewhere else please put it in the right place - thanks.
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Leica make a great small pair Ultravid ?
They do struggle a bit in low light . But you have to go to larger heavier binos to get good low light performance . Bigger lenses let in more light .
Swarovski have some great models .
They do struggle a bit in low light . But you have to go to larger heavier binos to get good low light performance . Bigger lenses let in more light .
Swarovski have some great models .
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check yr pm's from last night, lotsa nerdy bino details sent.
And yes you can see the wall!
Throw in some AOB to lessen the slant angle through the windows and its even clearer.
And yes you can see the wall!
Throw in some AOB to lessen the slant angle through the windows and its even clearer.
If you do purchase binoculars, test them out first in low light. Any pair will perform relatively well in good light, it's the low light that tests them.
I have a pair of Carl Zeiss 8x42 FL's, a bit pricey - but you get what you pay for. In lvery low light conditions they are one of the best.
Sturdy build, no chromatic aberration (check them against a high contrast object).
When you are looking at the high end of the market, it comes down to personal choice, how the bins feel in your hand, are they comfortable, etc. There isn't that much difference in quality between the Zeiss, Leica, Swarovski, etc.
I also purchased the Zeiss Diascope 85 FL, the only down side is the weight but the FOV and brightness far outweigh any weight issues. But I digress...
I have a pair of Carl Zeiss 8x42 FL's, a bit pricey - but you get what you pay for. In lvery low light conditions they are one of the best.
Sturdy build, no chromatic aberration (check them against a high contrast object).
When you are looking at the high end of the market, it comes down to personal choice, how the bins feel in your hand, are they comfortable, etc. There isn't that much difference in quality between the Zeiss, Leica, Swarovski, etc.
I also purchased the Zeiss Diascope 85 FL, the only down side is the weight but the FOV and brightness far outweigh any weight issues. But I digress...
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Gents,
Thank you for all the good information. You blokes are better than google!
As soon as TT gives me a few days off I'll go out and track some of your recommendations down.
Kung Hei Fat Choi.
Thank you for all the good information. You blokes are better than google!
As soon as TT gives me a few days off I'll go out and track some of your recommendations down.
Kung Hei Fat Choi.
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Under dark conditions, the eye's pupil dilates to around 7 mm. So to maximize the amount of light a pair of binocs can stuff into your eyes, you need an exit pupil also around 7 mm. You can work this out for binocs by dividing the object lens diameter by the magnification. So in the case of 8 x 42 (above), the exit pupil is 5.25 mm. A pair of 6 x 42 binocs (if they existed) would give you a 77% brighter image. The calculation works consistently across all magnifications and apertures. So 7 x 50 would have the same brightness, as would 3 x 24. Any exit pupil bigger that 7 mm is wasting gathered light, because it doesn't get into the eye.
All things not being equal, right now you should always compare the binocs you lust after with image-stabilized Canons: the stabilization makes a huge difference in the perceived performance because the image isn't jiggling around, and they're good value. My guess is they add around 30% to the apparent brightness for a given aperture (say 2 stops if you're a camera person) since the eye integrates light quite well. I'm not saying "buy Canon", I'm saying use them as the yardstick and see if you can beat them at a price point you're happy with.
Also consider eye relief if you wear glasses: it's the plane the image is formed on. Binocs with extended eye relief will work better through spectacles than those with short eye relief, though short eye relief can give a more "immersive" experience, where you appear to be able to look around inside the image without moving the binocs.
All things not being equal, right now you should always compare the binocs you lust after with image-stabilized Canons: the stabilization makes a huge difference in the perceived performance because the image isn't jiggling around, and they're good value. My guess is they add around 30% to the apparent brightness for a given aperture (say 2 stops if you're a camera person) since the eye integrates light quite well. I'm not saying "buy Canon", I'm saying use them as the yardstick and see if you can beat them at a price point you're happy with.
Also consider eye relief if you wear glasses: it's the plane the image is formed on. Binocs with extended eye relief will work better through spectacles than those with short eye relief, though short eye relief can give a more "immersive" experience, where you appear to be able to look around inside the image without moving the binocs.
We're not all blokes! We of the fairer sex are also known to use bins on occasion...
The image doesn't jiggle around unless very high magnification. I've tried the Canon IS, and although the IS feature is fine with Canon DSLR's (I use the 100-400 IS lens on a 7D, and it's great for the photography I do, to be honest my personal opinion is that the IS certainly isn't a make or break feature in a pair of bins.
Having said that, of course, it's each to their own, and depending on what you will be using the bins for, personal consideration is given to various features in bins/cameras, and I guess IS is one of them too.
The image doesn't jiggle around unless very high magnification. I've tried the Canon IS, and although the IS feature is fine with Canon DSLR's (I use the 100-400 IS lens on a 7D, and it's great for the photography I do, to be honest my personal opinion is that the IS certainly isn't a make or break feature in a pair of bins.
Having said that, of course, it's each to their own, and depending on what you will be using the bins for, personal consideration is given to various features in bins/cameras, and I guess IS is one of them too.
Last edited by Helol; 5th Feb 2011 at 16:20.
I have had the stabilized Canon IS for about 6 years. When I first got them I thought they were the ant's pants. They are particularly good if the platform you are on is jumping around..a speed boat is a very good example where they really shine over non-stabs. But, I found that if you are stable that the stabilizing function actually slightly degrades the image (probable tiny vibration associated with imperfect rotating bits and bearings).
My current favourites are a second hand pair of basic Steiner Military/Marine rugged 7 x 10 with huge lens and don't require any focusing after you set the diopter corrections for your eyes. Beautiful clear and bright optics and are an absolute pleasure to use. They are short and fat, strong as buggery but would be rather heavy to transport in a nav bag!
Check them on ebay.
My current favourites are a second hand pair of basic Steiner Military/Marine rugged 7 x 10 with huge lens and don't require any focusing after you set the diopter corrections for your eyes. Beautiful clear and bright optics and are an absolute pleasure to use. They are short and fat, strong as buggery but would be rather heavy to transport in a nav bag!
Check them on ebay.
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And wot's more
I worked out that if it takes a yard and a half of elephants foreskin to make a Gladstone Bag it takes 22ft of red and white ribbon to make a barbers pole,,smashing stuff eh wot!!
