Solid Rivet removal
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Solid Rivet removal
Hi all,
I would like to know what methods you guys (riggers/mech techs) use to remove aircraft solid rivets and whether you think there is any scope to improve the practice that you currently use.
Many thanks.
Kel
I would like to know what methods you guys (riggers/mech techs) use to remove aircraft solid rivets and whether you think there is any scope to improve the practice that you currently use.
Many thanks.
Kel
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Perrin
Very carefully drill out rivet after head is off it could be punched out with punch.
Be sure not to drill to far if you are sure whats on the other side of the A/C skin as many old timers will tell you stories of drilling in wiring, pipework etc.
True story coming up, a fitter drilled out rivet, made a mess of it, to cut a long story short ended up as a 6" by 6" insert repair.
The best advice is to be carefull when drilling it out.
Be sure not to drill to far if you are sure whats on the other side of the A/C skin as many old timers will tell you stories of drilling in wiring, pipework etc.
True story coming up, a fitter drilled out rivet, made a mess of it, to cut a long story short ended up as a 6" by 6" insert repair.
The best advice is to be carefull when drilling it out.
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There’s plenty of info out there about this if you’re looking for it; proven and aviation industry approved methods.
Take a look at:
FAA Advisory Circular AC43.13-1b
Standard Aircraft Handbook for mechs and techs
ISBN 0-07-134836-0
Aviation Mechanic Handbook
ISBN 978-1-56027-591-6
Understanding Aircraft Structures
ISBN 978-1-4051-2032-6
Take a look at:
FAA Advisory Circular AC43.13-1b
Standard Aircraft Handbook for mechs and techs
ISBN 0-07-134836-0
Aviation Mechanic Handbook
ISBN 978-1-56027-591-6
Understanding Aircraft Structures
ISBN 978-1-4051-2032-6
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Avoid these idiots.......
Manufacturers repair team turned up to renew a skin damaged (by the airline MX) after the aircraft skewed during jacking. The damaged section (about 22 feet by 6) was attached top and bottom by lap joints and butt joint either end. This "team" (probably an assortment of connies and old hands) proceeded to abrapad all traces of paint and protection from said joints in order to reveal the rivet and hyloc heads.
A few things:
1. some of the burnish marks looked about 10 to 15 thou deep !! seriously impairing damage tolerance
2. steel fasteners attacked in this way leave microscopic residue embeded in the alumimium which causes corrosion
3. the countersinks need re-making as the rivets will stand proud - this risks knife edge stress.
4. 2024 has a 2 thou layer of pure ally as a protective coating - now rendered useless.
Always paint strip or media blast to reveal rivet heads.
I was there to oversee the insurance job - needless to say I reported this to the manufacturer, insurance co, owner etc and was ignored. Money changed hands, a 8110 (equiv) issued and off she flew. Fussy Brit I guess. If I'd done that when I was an apprentice I'd have been out the door.
A few things:
1. some of the burnish marks looked about 10 to 15 thou deep !! seriously impairing damage tolerance
2. steel fasteners attacked in this way leave microscopic residue embeded in the alumimium which causes corrosion
3. the countersinks need re-making as the rivets will stand proud - this risks knife edge stress.
4. 2024 has a 2 thou layer of pure ally as a protective coating - now rendered useless.
Always paint strip or media blast to reveal rivet heads.
I was there to oversee the insurance job - needless to say I reported this to the manufacturer, insurance co, owner etc and was ignored. Money changed hands, a 8110 (equiv) issued and off she flew. Fussy Brit I guess. If I'd done that when I was an apprentice I'd have been out the door.
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Good practice for universal head rivets is to file a flat carefully on the head then centre mark it for your drill starting point. Carefully drill the head so it can be removed, then carefully drill the shank until deep enough to remove the majority of the rivet material in the hole, without preicing the tail. If the rivet is a large diameter, I will drill at a slighty smaller diameter. Punching out the remains also involves supporting the joint from behind with a bucking bar if possible. Stringers and skins don't get cracked or distorted then!
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Being an old sheety I would recommend the following.
1. Make sure you expose the rivet head (especially csk) remove paint.
2. If RH file a flat on the head.
3. Centre punch the rivet head, pref with dolly behind rivet tail.
4. Use 3/32 start drill.
5. Then use a drill slightly smaller than original rivet dia.
6. Drill head off
7. Use rivet dolly next to rivet tail and punch rivet tail out.
Obviously if you have thousands of rivets to remove it can be exhaustive, if you are removing the skin you can usually skip steps 1-4. Based on experience this does allow you to occasionally move off the rivet, I personally support the drill with my hand on the skin or member and slowly start the drill with the drill in step 5 as it doesn't matter if you damage any skin material or part that will be scrapped.
To avoid the drill running right through the skin and possibly damaging parts or cables behind the skin when drilling blind. I used to wrap solder around the drill bit from the chuck to the tip exposing just about 5-10 mm of the drill tip. The solder would prevent the drill going straight through the skin and the solder was soft enough not to cause any damage.
I miss the sheet metal work side of things and spent hours in my apprenticeship drilling rivets
Hope this helps, but practice makes perfect
1. Make sure you expose the rivet head (especially csk) remove paint.
2. If RH file a flat on the head.
3. Centre punch the rivet head, pref with dolly behind rivet tail.
4. Use 3/32 start drill.
5. Then use a drill slightly smaller than original rivet dia.
6. Drill head off
7. Use rivet dolly next to rivet tail and punch rivet tail out.
Obviously if you have thousands of rivets to remove it can be exhaustive, if you are removing the skin you can usually skip steps 1-4. Based on experience this does allow you to occasionally move off the rivet, I personally support the drill with my hand on the skin or member and slowly start the drill with the drill in step 5 as it doesn't matter if you damage any skin material or part that will be scrapped.
To avoid the drill running right through the skin and possibly damaging parts or cables behind the skin when drilling blind. I used to wrap solder around the drill bit from the chuck to the tip exposing just about 5-10 mm of the drill tip. The solder would prevent the drill going straight through the skin and the solder was soft enough not to cause any damage.
I miss the sheet metal work side of things and spent hours in my apprenticeship drilling rivets
Hope this helps, but practice makes perfect
I used to use a 1/8th thick Steel strip, approx 4" x 3/4", bent to about 30 degrees with a hole in the end to place on the rivet head - the right size (e.g 1/8" for 1/8", etc - or metric for the new boys) it was rounded and smooth around the edges so as not to scratch.
Lay it on the top of round/uni heads and drill away - centers almost automatically without filing the flats - tends to wear after a bit but you got used to it. Can't remember many mishaps - but then, we were removing skins all the time!
Ex-431MU AEF trick
Lay it on the top of round/uni heads and drill away - centers almost automatically without filing the flats - tends to wear after a bit but you got used to it. Can't remember many mishaps - but then, we were removing skins all the time!
Ex-431MU AEF trick
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Anyone seen the film of kapton wire burning because of swarf contamination?
IMHO all sheeties should be made to see it.
Cover all looms before drilling and have a good hoover out afterwards.
& no I'm not a fussy B2,I'm B1 & used to be a sheetie years ago.
IMHO all sheeties should be made to see it.
Cover all looms before drilling and have a good hoover out afterwards.
& no I'm not a fussy B2,I'm B1 & used to be a sheetie years ago.
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Yeah, mask off those areas where swarf is going to spoil your day when you come round to clean up.. That also includes control cables and pulleys, in fact everything you can. Fine collectors of debris all. It amazes me when you take up cargo liners, floors etc, how much ****e some sheeties leave behind after a job!! Then again, you don't get the 431 MU AEF / RSS QA inspector ripping your job apart on his final check!
Totally off on a tangent!!
Funniest thing I saw with one of those inspectors.. "That rivet head is mis shaped!" "No, Geoff.. Its a ladybird!"
Totally off on a tangent!!
Funniest thing I saw with one of those inspectors.. "That rivet head is mis shaped!" "No, Geoff.. Its a ladybird!"
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This Is The Basics!
There are so many chancers now in the industry, non apprenticeship trained people! Calling themselves Aircraft technicians! This was one of the very first things I learnt to do in my 4 year apprenticeship back in the early eighties! I have drilled out thousands of fasteners ( thats another word for rivets, bolts, hi-locks etc in case you didnt know) It astounds me that someone is coming on here asking this question!!
My advice is get someone to show you otherwise you will fek something up and you will look a dick!!!
My advice is get someone to show you otherwise you will fek something up and you will look a dick!!!
.
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Firstly,
Thankyou to all the guys that have responded to my post with a constructive reply.
The reason I started this thread is due to the fact I am in the process of designing and manufacturing a tool to aid in the removal of A/C rivets to improve the process. I have carried out this task frequently and thought of an idea to make the process more accurate and more efficient. I therefore canvassed for current practices used by the professionals that use this forum (excluding "itsallbollox")
Just to finish, "itsallbollox" (apt name) if you have nothing constructive to add to this thread kindly go elswhere and annoy someone else with your pointless boring posts that are about as intelligent as your screen name.....
Thankyou to all the guys that have responded to my post with a constructive reply.
The reason I started this thread is due to the fact I am in the process of designing and manufacturing a tool to aid in the removal of A/C rivets to improve the process. I have carried out this task frequently and thought of an idea to make the process more accurate and more efficient. I therefore canvassed for current practices used by the professionals that use this forum (excluding "itsallbollox")
Just to finish, "itsallbollox" (apt name) if you have nothing constructive to add to this thread kindly go elswhere and annoy someone else with your pointless boring posts that are about as intelligent as your screen name.....
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I miss the sheet metal work side of things and spent hours in my apprenticeship drilling rivets.
Hope this helps, but practice makes perfect
Hope this helps, but practice makes perfect
Some years ago I was visiting Marshall Aerospace, when I was asked to look at an Air Transat L-1011 that was in for a C-Check. There appeared to be numerous loose rivets on the upper fuselage, corresponding with an area of beef up done for the L-1011-150 modification. The mod had been accomplished my an other maintenance provider several years earlier. To make a long story short. They had to drill out 30,000 rivets because they were install without sealent. About a year later the second TS TriStar modified by the same company had to have 20,000 rivets drilled out and replaced in the same area.
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glhcarl,
30k rivets!!! So do you think there is a requirement for a tool to improve the removal process?, judging by the high ammount you mentioned using a center punch and a drill would take forever!
30k rivets!!! So do you think there is a requirement for a tool to improve the removal process?, judging by the high ammount you mentioned using a center punch and a drill would take forever!
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Several aircraft tool companies in the USA manufacture a rivet removal tool which has interchangable nose pieces for 3/32", 1/8", 5/32" and 3/16" to suit AN470 universal head rivets. It takes a 1/4"-28 threaded drill bit and has a 1/4 " shank. The better quality ones run the spindle in bronze bushings. If you are in the UK, I may have a link for a UK company..............
Air Drills, Boelube & Accessories - USATCO Rivet Removal Tool - Aerospace and Engineering Tools Limited
This looks like one of the better ones. And another UK co.............
Bardolph Aircraft Tools but their site ...........
That's why I like physical catalogs !
Air Drills, Boelube & Accessories - USATCO Rivet Removal Tool - Aerospace and Engineering Tools Limited
This looks like one of the better ones. And another UK co.............
Bardolph Aircraft Tools but their site ...........
That's why I like physical catalogs !
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You will not get any quicker than using a popper, drill, a stopper, block and care brought about by experience and good training.
Especially for countersunk fasteners.
Several companies produce some wonderful Carlos Fandango drilling jigs for removing large close tolerance fasteners, and they can prove their worth in some applications. However they were never quick to use and for a lot of jobs, they were unusable.
Especially for countersunk fasteners.
Several companies produce some wonderful Carlos Fandango drilling jigs for removing large close tolerance fasteners, and they can prove their worth in some applications. However they were never quick to use and for a lot of jobs, they were unusable.