Aircraft and automotive crossover question.
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Aircraft and automotive crossover question.
Hi,
My field is classic cars, but you gentleman - and ladies - deal with making mechanisms in a high vibration and difficult environments work reliably.
So if you could help, I have two questions:
1) A lot of my fasteners are "wired" for security, but for those that are not, could you recommend any kind of "Loctite" type product that can secure the fastener reliably? Hopefully, Loctite is not a dirty word!
The reason for the question is that sometimes originality issues mean a part is not wired, but nonetheless vibration on some cars can be awful, causing items to work free.
2) What types of stainless steel do you use?
Thanks for your time.
My field is classic cars, but you gentleman - and ladies - deal with making mechanisms in a high vibration and difficult environments work reliably.
So if you could help, I have two questions:
1) A lot of my fasteners are "wired" for security, but for those that are not, could you recommend any kind of "Loctite" type product that can secure the fastener reliably? Hopefully, Loctite is not a dirty word!
The reason for the question is that sometimes originality issues mean a part is not wired, but nonetheless vibration on some cars can be awful, causing items to work free.
2) What types of stainless steel do you use?
Thanks for your time.
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Hi Whitney, sorry for the delay and short reply, yes we use loctite products as well as locknuts, I will sort out you some links and details tomorrow if I have time at work 
If you want positive locking, spring (split) washers are very effective. Locknuts are commonly available in all thread types too. Google should point you in the right direction for suppliers.
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Loctite flavors, yellow death, gorilla snot
(Note my browser refuses to make proper paragraphs on Pprune, hence the run-on block of copy . . . ) Loctite comes in several "flavors", red, blue, some removable, some permanent, so don't just ask for "Loctite" without specifying which one you want. Alternatively, you can use a dot of 3M #801 weatherstrippng cement on fasteners, as with Loctite, the fasteners have to be clean first. This is available in two colors, yellow and black, known as "yellow death" and "gorilla snot" respectively. You can also use nylock nuts, but these get expensive and you'll need a wide selection of sizes, and are not "original". Best Regards, Echo Mike
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I've used Loctite 330, I think it was that anyway, it was blue! on my Impreza gearbox. On the layshaft to hold the 5th gear locknut. Once it sets though, you'll have big trouble getting it back off again!!
As for metals, where I work it tends to different thicknesses of Alclad(aluminium alloy clad with duralum I think) or titanium. Never really seen stainless steel kicking about or many parts manufactured from it.
Hope that helps.
As for metals, where I work it tends to different thicknesses of Alclad(aluminium alloy clad with duralum I think) or titanium. Never really seen stainless steel kicking about or many parts manufactured from it.
Hope that helps.
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I'd like to add that "clean" means wash with spraygun "gunwash" or, at a pinch, Meths or petrol. the average Motor Trade technique of a wipe with an oily rag, will not do!
thread-lockers like these, are Anaerobic (they set in the ABSENCE of air.
If the threads of BOTH the fastener AND the nut are scrupulously cleaned, a couple of drops (or enough to fill 1 or 2 threads) where the nut will eventually sit, is enough.
IIRC, purple is non-permanent, Red is permanent (though lots of heat can soften it and IIRC Acetone dissolves it (eventually)
Stainless is often used in automotive restorations,but commonly available grades tend to be weaker than their High Tensile Steel counterparts.........fine for mounting bodywork/accessories but not to be recommended for anything highly-stressed.
thread-lockers like these, are Anaerobic (they set in the ABSENCE of air.
If the threads of BOTH the fastener AND the nut are scrupulously cleaned, a couple of drops (or enough to fill 1 or 2 threads) where the nut will eventually sit, is enough.
IIRC, purple is non-permanent, Red is permanent (though lots of heat can soften it and IIRC Acetone dissolves it (eventually)
Stainless is often used in automotive restorations,but commonly available grades tend to be weaker than their High Tensile Steel counterparts.........fine for mounting bodywork/accessories but not to be recommended for anything highly-stressed.
