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Wife's HP laptop dead. Life won't be worth living.

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Old 8th Apr 2012, 21:34
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Wife's HP laptop dead. Life won't be worth living.

Please help, this HP laptop, variously described as an HP 6910us and on the bottom label, HP 6700, has gone TU.


G-son using it and he says it just quit, as though power pulled from it with no battery.

Attempting to start it gives the blue lights everywhere for less than a second. Then nothing.

Taking the battery out makes no difference. Blue lite around the plug lights up.

Any ideas?

Last edited by Loose rivets; 9th Apr 2012 at 15:40.
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Old 8th Apr 2012, 21:45
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Its knackerd
Its one of the HP machines with an nVidia graphics chip. They're held on with low-lead solder and the contacts go - and the machine dies. Thats probably the case here.
Its theoretically possible to fix them by reballing the solder contacts on the graphics chip. I know people who claim to be able to do this at reasonable cost - though I've never used them. PM me if you want their contact details.
But if you just Google "nVidia graphics laptop reball" you should find several who can do it
Word of warning - if anyone says they'll fix it by putting the board through a reflow oven, walk away. Just reheating the solder doesn't work long term. The solder has to be replaced through reballing.

Its a well know well documented problem common to ALL laptops with nVidia graphics - not just HP

Last edited by Milo Minderbinder; 8th Apr 2012 at 22:19.
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Old 8th Apr 2012, 21:56
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If it's not too old it's worth contacting HP.

I had the same problem with an HP dv5.

I contacted HP (laptop bought through Dixons/Currys who didn't want to know) pointing out that while the machine was more than a year old the problem was a well known and publicised manufacturing fault.

Also pointed out the EU regulations say the warranty period for such goods within the eu is 2yrs.

I specified that an acceptable resolution would be either a permanent repair or a replacement with a reliable similar machine.

HP accepted this and took the laptop back.

They replaced the motherboard and processor and fitted "upgraded" cooling.

It's worked like a dream since then.

I found that being polite but firm seemed to work ... first level support did not want to play but eventually they passed it upwards .. once they decided to accept responsibility the service was impressive and quick.

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Old 8th Apr 2012, 21:59
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The upgraded cooling was probably a BIOS flash which made the fan run semi-permanently rather than just occasionally. Tends to reduce the battery charge life


Its worth considering that this IS a well documented problem, and on SOME models HP unilaterally extended the warranty period, but I don't believe this is one of them
However, it does give you leverage against HP or Dixons -if you want to play hard - in that the machine was sold with a manufacturing fault and so they have a liability under EU law
Howver I've not yet met anyone who has had the persistence to take anyone to court over it. In this case it would have to be Dixons as they are who you have the sales contract with
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Old 8th Apr 2012, 22:15
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I've got some real solder, which I bought in the 1970s when I was a schoolboy and haven't used up yet.

Is this worth money then?
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Old 8th Apr 2012, 23:45
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Mmm . . . problem is, it was purchased in Texas, just after getting my Sony. It was a heck of a deal, so had to buy it, but shortly after I recall Keef saying something about overheated solder joints. Not such a good deal after all.

So, the video card/chip. But wouldn't that allow the unit to boot, but not display?

I'll have a bash at HP here, but we're in the 6month world - unless you pay for extended warranty. Failing that, I'll open it up and get the old jeweler's loop out. I can fabricate a fine soldering iron tip, but I really do need that Proper lead solder. I've got some, but it's in a HUGE box with all my old electronics gear 5,000 miles away.
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Old 8th Apr 2012, 23:52
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Tried a hard reset?
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 00:12
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Loose Rivets - no, it shorts out the whole board and stops it booting

Heres what you have to do. You need a fair amount of kit, including a desoldering gun and templates

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnkG...feature=relmfu
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 03:49
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Yep, tried the hard reset, thanks.


Checking the soldering, and I've had some success with discrete legs on early LSI, but buggah, that looks hard. No poking around legs that look like centipede legs then? Who ever came up with .6mm balls? Oh, buggah!

One will look at it again in the morning. Not that that it will make much difference. I can't even see how the HD comes out, and it doesn't get much more basic than that.

I've downloaded the manual, and will chat up HP on Tues. Don't hold out much hope though.

The Rivetess is off to the UK in two weeks, so my feeling is it will be a new laptop simply to get over our disastrous logistics at the moment. Should have put in for a new board when Keef posted, but too honest. Wish I wasn't.
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 04:57
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Exclamation

Lenovo was victimised by the same nVidia GPU.I inherited my wife's T-61 because of it. The good will repair offer expired in October of 2011, so I missed out.That's when I inherited it. Word on the boards is the issue is internal to the chip. The leads from the pins to the actual chip are the culprit.
I have obtained a MoBo that contains one of the rare nVidia GPUs that were released to address the concern.But as long as the GPU/CPU temp is kept at 180 F or higher, it works. Too cold, it dies.I revived it by baking it with its own heat until thermal shut down occurred.Until it croaks totally it does what i need it to do, and the parts to repair it are here.
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 10:53
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Was given a dead HP 6000. Dismantled, baked mobo in a 200 degrees C oven for 20 mins. Left to cool - still working 6mths later. So sometimes it does work.
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 12:11
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Who ever came up with .6mm balls?
Its surface mount packaging, usually all done by precise automated processes, hence tight criteria.

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Old 9th Apr 2012, 15:39
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Thanks for posting that. Fascinating. Can't understand why the rear plugs needed a human.

Corrected mistake in the OP, should be 6700 on the bottom label.


Can't believe any deal ran out in October! Mind you, this one is about 4 years old, the Rivetess informs me. Seemed like yesterday.


Do laptop HDs use a common connector? ie are they interchangeable between makes?

Can I put one in a USB converter to extract the data? Indeed, can I use this drive as the bootable drive in a PC? I only have the restore discs that came with the HP. It's only Vista, so no great loss, just the principle of not letting the buggahs win.
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 15:52
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Can't understand why the rear plugs needed a human.
Have done a bit of digging around, it seems that nonstandard, odd-formed or odd-shaped components cannot be inserted by automated lines, hence requiring manual insertion. However manual insertion can slow down a line by up to 80% (generic figure, not Fujitsu specific)... hence as part of the design process a detailed cost analysis is done and its the stage where manual insertion tends to be minimised to the max by the beancounters.

Do laptop HDs use a common connector? ie are they interchangeable between makes?
Yes. Largely all SATA these days, or IDE if you're an older generation.

Can I put one in a USB converter to extract the data?
Shouldn't be a problem. Its what the forensics guys do, although their USB converter is known as a "forensic bridge" because it's hardware limited to be read-only

Last edited by mixture; 9th Apr 2012 at 16:13.
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 16:02
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Laptop hard drives are standard - either SATA or IDE depending on age.
SATA conenctors are the same as in a desktop, IDE connectors are a smaller form factor than used in a desktop though you can get adaptors.
Sometimes you will find an interface plug adaptor attached to the drive - these just pull off
Best bet is - as you suggest - to use a USB adaptor to transfer the data.
Don't go down the route of trying to use the old drive in a new machine, not worth the problems with drivers, unmatched operating system, windows activation, older drive anyway...etc.etc.etc
Just copy the files across. There's one gotcha though - if the old machine had XP on it and the new one Vista or Win7 you may get file access problems which will need you to change the security permissions on the user profiles on the old drive
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 16:08
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Can I put one in a USB converter to extract the data? Indeed, can I use this drive as the bootable drive in a PC? I only have the restore discs that came with the HP. It's only Vista, so no great loss, just the principle of not letting the buggahs win.
Yes, you can buy an empty enclosure to turn it into a portable usb drive, they only cost around £10. Stick the drive in the box, plug in the USB cable, away you go.
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Old 9th Apr 2012, 18:14
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Thanks for the info chaps. Tomorrow I'll know if it's a potential dead loss and then get out the electric paint stripper and a woodworkers G clamp.

O five sparrow's this AM, I'm lying in bed thinking of ways to keep the chip cool while attacking the surrounding daughter board. The G-clamp might do the trick, but have to be a quick release one.

I've wasted months of my life doing things like this. Resetting the tabs on video recorder heads - an inordinately difficult task according to some - but that's why I had to do it. My first Vaio was an insurance/Sony write off. A bit of micro surgery on the MB, and I used it for years. So, I know I won't be able to resist a bash at this.

If we can use the drive that would be a major step. I'd recently mentioned to her that she should download her entire disc to the Seagate BlackAmor network drive. But she just huffed something about being silly, and it didn't get done. Serves her right, but now I feel sorry for her.
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Old 10th Apr 2012, 04:21
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I've looked through the 26 pages/photos of how to disassemble the 6700. A lot of work just to look inside. I've removed the goodies, (the HD just wanted pulling hard.) and powered up each time in the hope one item was crow-baring the power. Just the same.

How to take apart HP Pavilion dv6000 laptop >> Inside my laptop

Tomorrow, when blood is undiluted, I'll sneak a look inside. No chance of HP doing anything by the sound of it. Nvidia have brought their compensation period to a close - as stated above, in 2011.

Now, here's a clever young chap. He may well have hit the nail on the head.


Gado Student

Re: DV6700 Overheating
Options

10-02-2011

I had the same problem for almost 3 years. I was just about giving up on this computer when I decided to give it a shot at tearing this thing completely apart. I followed a good procedure on this web site http://www.insidemylaptop.com/disass...books/

It was about 95% accurate for dv6700. I removed the fan/heatsink assembly and cleaned it. The laptop got quite a bit cooler and the time to total-meltdown went from about 1 hour to more than 3 hours. But it still eventually "froze" (how ironic). The center of the keyboard and the touchpad still got extremely hot.

Unsatisfied, I attempted a second repair. This time I found the real culprit. Due to either a design flaw or manufacturing mistake, somehow, the GPU dose not touch the fan/heatsink contact plate. Instead, there is a piece of flexible plastic spacer in place. No wonder the center of the unit gets so hot. Luckily, the solution is simple. I used a dime, which happens to be about the same thickness, to replace the spacer. Of course, you need to use thermal grease to improve contact. Now my dv6700 runs very cool. The center feels warm but not hot. If you put your hand at the fan exhaust it actually feels cool! It's amazing what a dime can do in this economy.

I'm really puzzled that HP could not find the cause and therefore a solution for such a widespread problem. I think HP truly owes all dv6700 customers a big refund.
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Old 10th Apr 2012, 16:51
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Sleeves rolled up, and rarin' to go, but I thought I'd just give HP a quick call. They'd want real money to talk technical, but they did say this serial number was not one listed with an Nvidia issue!

I was already keeping my mind open to other issues, but can this mean a real diversion away from the chip-fail logic?

It's as though the power line somewhere is being crow-bared. Blue lights come on and go off well within a second.

I'll take out the wi-fi unit and the blue tooth (didn't know it had got that.) Not much left to take out of the equation.
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Old 10th Apr 2012, 17:33
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I've taken apart a few of those machines - be careful, the flex cable that connects the speakers to the main board is very easy to break. The machine is a royal pain in the a$$ to take apart, one of the worst IMHO. Lots of hidden flex connectors and screw lengths. Next time I'd suggest a Dell. I picked up a Dell E6400 on ebay (in the US) for $212 including shipping. For future reference, unless you are an avid gamer, avoid dedicated graphics and go for integrated.

Most modern(ish) machines will exhibit the failure modes you describe, if some major subsystem doesn't check out, the machine's power control cct will shut the machine down.
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