Jodel advice please

[dah dah]

My friend and I have just bought a Jodel 120A Special, 100hp O-200, Ken Fern Prop (70 X 50). As neither of us has any real Jodel experience or knowledge (we have plenty of tail wheel time), we would welcome and tips or tricks on flying and maintaining this type.

Thanks in advance. . .

M and M

[Potter1]

If you haven't done so already, might I suggest that you join these guys and ask the question there?



http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jodel


P...

[Flyin'Dutch']

Well done!

Am sure you will have lot of fun with your new mount.

They are excellent performers on the relative small hp engines they usually have. The jodel list is indeed a great way to find a lot of information on how to maintain them.

You probably already know that the wooden props don't like flying in the rain.

See that you are not a million miles from the center of the universe ;) so may well bump into you at some point (in a metaphorical way of course!)


FD

[Airbedane]

As a fellow D120 owner (G-AVYV), I've found the Jodel Club an excellent source of knowledge and data. You could also try your local PFA Coach if you need a type conversion.

PM me if you need more info.

Airbedane

[Sir George Cayley]

The Wassmer built 120's if I recall have one fuel tank under the rear parcel shelf. If yours is like this (unlike the SAN built 117's with 2) watch the weight and balance if touring and camping. They can easily get a bit tail heavy.

Also check the trailing edge of the wing. There are drain holes that easily get blocked if operating off wet grass.
In extreme cases rot can occur and I've seen delamination and worse on some.

Does the -A signify airbrakes.? These help with controlling the approach but speak to an instructor about the difference between them and more usual flaps. I've seen a novice get very out of shape on the approach as a result of not understanding their effect on lift.

I'm sure there's more but its late and it was a long time ago. The main thing to remember is that the design is fantastic and will give many hours of pleasure in the air.

Don't though do what I did. Sell it. You'll regret it


Sir George Cayley

[dah dah]

Flyin’D - No I don’t know anything about the prop in he rain. What’s that all about?

Sir G - Thanks for the feedback. Yes it’s single tank. I will have a closer look at the WAB. The trailing edge looks OK but I will check the drain holes.

AIRBRAKES: We have had a bit of a play with the airbrakes. They just seem to reduce speed by 10kts and increase the rate of descent. My assumption was that in most cases they would not be needed – I’d rather keep in practice side slipping. I’d be interested to hear other pilots comments on their use.

[shortstripper]

I (along with a couple of others on here) fly a Falconar F11 which is just a prettier looking version of a 120 ;)

Only just getting used to it now so I'm no expert but I can tell you it's a joy to fly and performs extremely well on it's 90hp. Ours is flapless and has no airbrakes which is a pity as there's no way it will get into my home strip as it is. I can get her down in about 350-400 yards now ... but my strip is 350 yards hedge to hedge :ugh:

From gliding and motorgliding I can shed some light on airbrake use -- Flaps increase drag and lift ... airbrakes have no effect on lift but create drag. Use airbrakes a bit like you'd use a throttle for best results... ie open to increase (pull out) to increase descent rate and close (push in) to reduce it. You can either juggle brake and throttle or as I prefer, leave just a little power on and then use just brakes to control descent (along with slipping if req'd) until you flare ... that way you have instant response if you need power to go around but you will kiss the runway the instant you chop the throttleif not.

Wood props in rain ... yep, I destroyed the leading edge of one flying through some heavy stuff :uhoh:

[Sir George Cayley]

I was advised that slide slipping Jodels was not encouraged because of the potential stress on the stern post.

If your a/c has been rebuilt recently and your are confident then gentle slips should be OK.

My mentor taught that a well planned approach obviated the need to side slip and that if one was so high as to require an energetic one it was probably better to go araound and try again

Shortstripper - Well put about a/brakes

Sir George Cayley

[Flyin'Dutch']

The airbrakes on the Jodels were a bit of an afterthought to deal with the floating which they display due to the efficient wing and the ground effect you get so strongly as the wings are close to the ground.

FD

[Bluebeard777]

Side slipping: A discussion some time ago on the Jodel forum (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jodel/) would suggest that the no-sideslip advice is in the aviation-myths category.

I side slip a Jodel regularly, though not at full rudder, due to having a clear mental image of the four little 4 mm bolts that hold the bearings to the fuselage.

[Aerobatic Flyer]

I've never seen the 4mm bolts, and sideslip quite happily in the D119 I sometimes fly. Don't ever sideslip the D140, as the flaps are very effective airbrakes.

[dah dah]

Thanks for the feedback.

Any views on the engine? I used to fly VWs a lot so now tend to spend half my time with the carb heat on! Not sure if this is so necessary on the O-200. Any comments?

[shortstripper]

It is with a C90 so it probably is with the 0-200 as well. Lyc's aren't as prone.

SS

[Aerobatic Flyer]

I've only got a few hours on an O-200 engined D113. I found it was reasonably prone to making ice, but not nearly as bad as the C90 in the D119.

Be cautious, but don't worry about it unduly.

[LowNSlow]

O-200's in Cessnas and A-65's in Cubs are great ice generators. Nothing to worry about but a good blast every 15-20 minutes will keep you flying.

I flew through a light rain shower in my Cub with a wooden Evra prop. Fortunately it had brass leading edges so it was just the varnish that was stripped off! I heard of a chap who flew F1 racers who fitted a wooden cruise prop to fly to the races. He flew through some reasonably heavy rain and lost 1/2" depth off each leading edge from the boss to the tips.