Spurred by the appeal from the incomparable and irrepressible Danny, alas I must join Chugalug in agreeing that we have seen the best of this wonderful thread as one by one our gallant contributors have made their final climbs. On the other hand I enjoy the more recent third-party accounts which show that there's still fascinating material out there, so please keep it coming. Enjoy your sojourn in Italy, Harrym, and please can you tell us more when you return? Godetevi la vostra vacanza in Italia!