hyperflyboy,
Just looked at your photo - not good.
Reasons why -
1/ The full throttle stop determines your MAX N1 speed. Possibly not an issue at the altitudes you are flying at.
At higher density altitudes you will not achieve MAX N1 and the engine will TOP and the RRPM will decrease before you reach TO power.
If it was a multi-engine install - an even bigger issue as your remaining engine will not achieve OEI power.
2/ The lever will possibly be under the 30? degree point when at IDLE and too close to ICO (idle cut off). The downside of this is that should you do a practice power failure there is every chance it might flame out and make it a little more interesting than it needs to be!!
With the engine shut down - Fuel OFF - BP off - Check the throttle as follows -
CLOSED it should be preloaded against the stop on the FCU - if not you can have afterfires.
Open the throttle slowly until the stop just clicks out on the twist grip - pointer on FCU should NOT be under the IDLE marking.
Open the throttle fully and it should be preloaded against the MAX N1 stop.
Close the throttle slowly to the twist grip idle stop - again the pointer should be above the idle mark.
If the difference between opening and closing is significant your throttle linkages are worn out.
The IDLE position of the lever does not relate to the IDLE speed - that is set within the FCU although can be cheated with bad rigging.
To check the actual IDLE speed within the FCU - on shutdown - slowly decrease the throttle after pushing the IDLE stop and watch the N1 tach. Note the RPM where the fuel shuts off.
If lower than the recommended IDLE RPM get it adjusted.
Frankly I am surprised that your shop has let this slip as it is pretty important yet basic stuff. I would be a little apprehensive as to the rest of your problems when you have an obvious issue such as this!