Ah, good question Evo - took me some time to work that one out as well.
The function
is there, though, even though I was convinced for a while it wasn't.
Go to 'Map' on the menu bar and select 'New Map'.
THen, on the right hand side of the selection window, above the map scale radio buttons, is a clickable selector marked 'terrain'. Hit that, and the @land' box changes to elevation colours. Then Robert's your mother's brother.
Hope that helps.