I have done both 21 and 03 at ACE as a pax
(in CKT L1011's both times) and both were indeed spectacular.
Some of that lava looks pretty close as you come down the 21 offset. Can see why, I think, they only approach (or did) on 03 at night.
When last there in Sept'99 we sat at the 21 hold for half an hour in G-BBAJ (on one of it's last rev flights, by the way) as about
5 arrivals (all UK charters - it was a Thursday evening) arrived on 03. We then departed on 21 (wind was light/VRB).