Wander00 (your #7), and subsequent Posts.
...ISTR Burtons as an authorised No 1 SD tailor...
I clearly recall that in '53 or '54, Monty's sold me:
A No.1 SD for £13/15.
A
Crombie Greatcoat for £15/15.
A barathea battledress (No.?) for £12/15. (Multiply by 26 for inflation)
whether authorised or not. The trick was to be of a stock size (I was lucky). The barathea and Crombie were of equal quality with the cloths used by Gieves and the Forty Other Thieves. Indeed I've heard that these were not above using Monty as a sub-contractor (having supplied their own labels to be sewn in). But then you hear all sorts of things.
Danny.