Ahhhhh! Rabaul used to be heaven - on - earth back in the 60's. No eruptions since 1937, and most of the WW2 damage had been cleared away. The streets were cool and green - shaded by huge raintrees planted pre-WW1 by the Germans.
I was posted there for a short while from Feb to April 1961 - in my earlier role as a 'didiman' and was based at Kerevat Research Station. This was also the location of a Jap fighter strip 1942-45 and it was liberally covered in scrap aluminium and pockmarked by many,many Allied bombs. Most of the coconut palms were pocked and chopped by bullets and bombs.
We experienced at least one guria per day. Sometimes the tables and chairs slid right across the room, and you didn't leave glass items anywhere high. What was really memorable was the swishing of palms and trees during a big guria. There'd be a rattle of nuts falling away from many palms and it was recommended to never be under palms at any time. All the houses were on stilts of galvanised piping so used to twist and sway quite a bit.
The airport in the 60's was at Lakunai across the harbour from town - toward Tavuver. Beautiful location. The base turn onto 27 or 28 (I think), placed you right over the side vents of Tavuver yet I can't recall anyone with concerns about it's possible eruption. The old location is now under 10m of ash.
We visited Rabaul and Kokopo on the Sun Princess in 2010, and I've never been so disappointed to see a place of beauty so scruffy, unkempt and clearly uncared for. I guess the funds have been used for better things but Rabaul could surely use some work.
Later in 1962 I was relieving the didiman on Kar Kar Is - off the Madang coast - between Long Is to the SE, and Manum Is to the NW - both active volcanoes at the time. My donga was right on the water and I could see Manums' glow at night. Talk about gurias on Kar Kar! They were quite common - pretty much daily. Kept most of our breakables on the floor or packed tight into cupboards. The kiap and I walked up to the top of Kar Kar - it was quite a climb! We went down into the crater - it was partially vegetated - but it was noticeably warmer than the outside. Kar Kar erupted sometime in the 80's I think. Not surprising as it's on the same chain as Rabaul.
Always know who's been living in an earthquake prone area - they'll be out the door before the uninitiated can catch their SP as it slides off the table!
happy days,.
Last edited by poteroo; 1st Sep 2014 at 01:09.
Reason: spelling mistake