Hello
You can indeed transit through restricted areas after obtaining the relevant clearance. I haven't flown VFR in France for ages but my bit of advice is to use the appropriate charts for that. In any case you really need to get hold of a set of SIA VFR charts (1/1 000 000) which has a supplement containing all the details about Restricted, Danger and Prohibited areas together with the relevant frequencies to contact (you won't find them on the 1/500 000 ICAO-IGN charts which, by the way, only depict Restricted areas or Controlled airspace up to 5000ft).
You can order them directly from the Service d'Information Aéronautique:
http://www.sia.aviation-civile.gouv....set_uk.asp?m=9
or purchase them from AFE or Transair.
Flying along the South-West coast of France is indeed a pleasure to the eyes. I used to do it quite often ...10 years ago!
I'm sorry if I can't be of more help, but sadly I only fly IFR nowadays.
Hope you'll have fun.