Thanks !
Hey thanks a lot for your feed back friends, very helpful.
The amended list is then as follows:
1. Complete Exterior Check with Master Switch Off, Magnetos Off, Disconnect GPS, All Electrical Equipment Off.
2. Pull Aircraft Outside
3. Manually Turn Propellor 6 rotations in the normal rotation direction
(i.e. to the right/clockwise from the pilot seat's point of view, to the left/counterclockwise when standing in front of the aircraft)
4. Master Switch On - check voltage - if above +11.0 V the battery should make the starting cycle (Alternator OFF : the alternator draws on the battery when the engine is not running)
5. Landing light on - count 5 seconds - check voltage: should be +0.2 V higher - Landing light off (electrolite fluid warms up enough to increase battery power more than it drains it)
6. Magnetos LEFT (because the left magneto drives the starting spark); Mixture Fully Rich, Throttle 1/4 inch Forward, Prime 6 times as per POH cold weather ops.
7. Fuel Pomp ON
8. Starter Engage
AFTER START
9. Magnetos BOTH
10. Alternator ON
11. Check Oil Pressure; Check Alternator Load Positive
12. Check Voltage : should be between 12 V and 13.5 V now.
13. Engage remaining electrical equipment as required; Check Alternator Load with each added item.
For night operations, I would replace point 5 by :
5. Landing light on, Nav Lights on
Run around the aircraft to check all 4 lights operating
Landing light off, Nav Lights off
For IFR operations in winter, I would ignore the Start Up Clearance chore and call them when the engine is already running. 1 minute of two way radio is sufficient to deplete the battery beyond starting capabilities.
Pitot tube heat operability can be checked by the load meter difference. If you turn on 200-odd Watts of pitot heat in the above aircraft in winter, without the engine and the alternator running, you're going to stay on the ground.
I don't think you can do that with the Nav lights, as they are shielded from the cockpit and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the load with one of the three of them being inop.
As for the stall warner, how important is that check ? I mean, in some PA28 types the stall warning is a red indicator which you cannot see from where you're pushing the stall vane.