valve guide,
I always thought that a G3B was a narrow bubble machine with turbo?? different from the 3B1, 3B2 and 3B2A, which with the A models of the 2, 4 & 5 variants were all wide bubble. but the straight number was a narrow bubble.
The G2 / G2A, either metal or wooden blades were quite a bit shorter than all later metal blades which were uniform in length. The weighted tip on the turbo machines was also to accomodate the higher allowed AUW.
I think you will find that the EO to remove the turbo and ancillary gear (about 80 pounds weight) will also include instruction to replace the low dome pistons with the high dome /higher compression ratio ones.
This is handy as the longer blades take a bit more power to wind up than the shorter ones but once wound up are far more efficient than the shorter ones. gives you an extra 40-45 ponies.
So the G3B / 2A-1 will be the G3B1 with turbo removed, three power cylinders, heavy sparks box and still 24 volts.
Turbos can be removed from the KH4 except of course they already had the non weighted blades.
The normal G2 were fitted with a light weight freewheel --ugh ugh ugh -- the G5, 3B, 3B1 and straight 4 had medium weight and the 3B2A, 3B2 and 4A all have the heavy weight with the 900 series xmon. do yourself a favour if you remove the turbo get yourself a heavy weight free wheel which can be put on a 600 series xmon.
If you can still buy a Texas no bar kit you will get rid of the 30 pound stabilizer bar and of course the power required to wind it up. Makes them quite touchy to drive, be sure your irreversible valves and power cylinder bushes are not worn out or they become - real - touchy.
If you really want to lighten it up more you could look at a Jasco alternator and shed the heavy generator and ugly heavy, bastard turnout, sparks box.
which ever way you go you will enjoy it as long as you don't short cut on the horsepower.
cheers tet