Well that's my view anyway.
Sounds like the view of someone who has never operated a radial engine, and who has no training in operating a radial engine. You're wrong.
Your comments suggest that pulling an engine through before starting has nothing to do with hydraulic or liquid lock. It has everything to do with hydraulic lock.
Yes, you do hand turn them, but not to clear hydraulic lock. It's for 'sucking-in' fuel into your cylinders prior either, to throwing the left magneto and hand swinging the prop, (or firing the cartridge starter if it's something like a military spec Chipmunk).
No, it's not, and if you're hand-turning the propeller to "suck in" fuel, then you're doing something stupid. Don't do that. This is why you have a starter motor.
Yes, you do hand turn them, and yes, it's to check for, and sometimes to clear a hydraulic lock. If hydraulic lock is discovered, one generally doesn't clear it by pulling the prop through, as this can damage the engine and is a good way to bend a rod. One generally removes a spark plug to drain oil when a hydraulic lock is discovered.
Furthermore, if hydraulic lock really was present, then you would be physically unable to turn even a small engine; you'd have to call the mechanics to it to remove the ignition plug(s) and drain off the oil first.
That's the whole point of pulling the engine through in the first place; one is checking for hydraulic lock. If one finds resistance, then one stops pulling, and starts removing spark plugs.
Anyway, you would only get hydraulic lock if your lower cylinders had very badly worn rings and/or bores. And long before they reached that state, you would have oily plugs and a high oil consumption. You would have constant bad starting and misfiring and vibration on startup, which would warn you about the state of your engine long before hydraulic lock became a possibility.
Not at all true.
Hydraulic lock is often the result of worn valve guides, as the oil entering the cylinder doesn't drain from above the piston, but from beneath, through the cylinder head. Oil consumption has nothing to do with hydraulic lock, and has nothing to do with a worn engine. Neither vibration, misfiring, or hard starting has anything to do with liquid lock, and these do not warn of impending liquid lock. One can hydraulic a cylinder after it's been sitting for only a few minutes after shutdown, or it can go months without becoming hydraulically locked. All with having perfectly run the last hundred flights, and on a new or freshly overhauled engine.
I would submit that since a radial requires two whole revolutions in order for every cylinder to complete its cycle of suck-squeeze-bang-blow, the prime purpose of hand-turning the engine is purely for 'sucking-in' and nothing else.
Completing the four-cycle evolution is irrelevant, as one isn't firing the engine. One only needs the piston to move.
Running the engine through on the starter motor is advised with some engines, but not others, largely because some starter motors utilize a slipping clutch which will protect the engine as it's pulled through on the starter. In this event, pulling the engine through on the starter is safer than pulling it through using propeller blades, because there's a lot more damage to be done by the long arm of the prop blade than there is from the starter. The propeller is a big lever.
In cold weather, flooding the supercharger while cranking (after having pulled the engine through, usually two separate operations) is part of the start procedure, usually done with the mixture in cutoff. Various techniques apply...in this particular case, one is drawing fuel into the cylinder, but not at all the same as the concept you're thinking about. You're envisioning priming the engine and turning it through to better "prime" it, and all this does is wash protective oil off cylinder walls...it doesn't enhance the start.
A cold weather start on a big radial is a raw affair that's part technique and part brute application of fuel, and generally involves the use of a rosary bead of prayer stick.