Well I've been here a year or two now so I guess I've seen a few changes. General Obasanjo was the military head of state when I first came out. For me it all changed in 1999 when we had a lot of helicopters hijacked (but no fixed wing that I recall). I survived 3 attempted hijackings with nothing worse than a bit of aircraft damage. I have many scars from where I have been attacked with knives and carried out on site repairs myself
. I rescued one of my (Nigerian) adopted daughters from kidnappers myself. I remember an interesting night drive around a GRA in Port Harcourt with a guy who was attempting an armed robbery on my car, lying across the bonnet with his right arm in the window trying to strangle me while I was trying to throw him off the car. Luckily when we were chased by MOPOL all that ended up broken was a window and my spectacles.
But then again, I remember lovely days just catching a bus from the Ikorodudu motor park in Warri to see where I'd end up on a day off; hitch hiking holiday around most of the country in 1994 and encountering so much hospitality and friendship; good meals out in Port Harcourt; meeting my wife here; Sundays drifting down the River Ethiope at Abraka; monkeys trying to steal my watch at the Wikki warm springs in the Yankari game park. Sadly, those days are gone for me, but it's just as sad for many Nigerians.
If you're going to be in Lagos, it's just like any other large, overcrowded third world city where you can still have a lot of fun, but you need to be careful. If you're in the Niger Delta it really is pretty unstable right now and you should only venture out with someone with extensive local knowledge and/or an armed escort.
I'd just come out prepared for the worst, but hoping for the best. Most of the people here are friendly and inquisitive about foreigners; they're mercurial, quick to anger and just as quick to laugh. The key to all is laughter. I'm very sad that in a country where I've had so much enjoyment, in many places now it's difficult to have a life outside work if you're an expatriate. From what you say, you'll be in Lagos and there's plenty to do there still, but be aware that it can be a dangerous city at night if you visit the wrong places. Mostly, it's just down to luck. Keep an open mind and have a good time. Chuks is right in his view that many Nigerians have rose tinted spectacles when it comes to defending their country against criticism, but too many people can see no good here and that too is wrong. It isn't the safest or best place to be right now, but it's by no means the most dangerous or the worst either. I hope you have a safe, pleasurable experience here.