I will not being using any of the posts as a direct checklist in anyway, I only want responses so I can build a general understanding.
As to reasons WHY you do these...
Many variations of the same thing here but generally all MANUFACTURER SPECIFIED checks need to be covered whatever you use.
I tend to like Sunfish's list best, but I use a seperate engine runup.
Temp just need to be warm enough (manufacturer will specify in the amplified procedures part of Section 4 in the POH/Flight Manual). Too cold and you will damage cylinder coning or bearings as the temperature won't have allowed the metal to have expanded properly. ESSENTIAL FOR ENGINE LONGEVITY. Pressures will be checked when at operating rpm.
Cessna for example have a neat feature where when the rpm's are in the green arc, the engine gauges should also be in their respective green arcs. Not applicable to all types, but if you have a green arc extending from 1700 up, this may well be the case.
Mag checks- Good idea to check right mag first, then left mag so that when you return to both you don't accidentally go just one click and leave mags on left.
Check both the drop and the difference between drops as specified in the POH. Not all types have the same rpm for checking, max drops or maxdifferences.
Carb Heat check-
Not just an rpm drop, but leave it on for at least five seconds and watch to see if the rpms rise. If so it means you may have picked up throttle icing (yes, even while taxiing. All you need is humidity and a low throttle setting!) When you turn it off, check the rise is
only back to the starting rpm. Higher is the same problem. If you have a long distance to taxi to the takeoff point, you may want to check it again before takeoff if you had a positive indication.
Trim (T/O), Throttle Friction (set)
Mixture (Rich) masters (both on) magnetos (both)
Primer (Locked)
Fuel (On and sufficient), flaps (tested and set)
Instruments (Scanned, frequencies set, transponder to sby, DG set, QNH set)
Switches (1700 rpm,mag drops and matches, carb heat and idle)
Controls (Full and free movement)
Hatches and harnesses (and that bloody seat!) (Secure)
Trim- set for takeoff (some schools of thought include checking full and free range of movement as it is a part of the primary control surface).
Throttle Friction- firm (you may find it easier to make power changes taxiing with the friction off while taxiing. This check before takeoff will make sure your settings don't vibrate out of whack while flying).
Mixture Rich- Obvious.
Mag's Masters on Both- Same Same.
Primer Locked- an unlocked primer will give a similar symptom to a fouled plug.
Fuel- Both required for takeoff, landing and unbalanced flight, you could unport an individual tank selection if you fly out of balance (Fuel pushed to the outside of the wing and away from the fuel pickup point - same as a skid ball). Sufficient....self explanatory.
Flaps- Check for symmetrical extension, retraction and indication.
C150 nil flap and C152 10 degrees flap for normal takeoff
Instruments- (Scanned, frequencies set, transponder to sby, DG set, QNH set).
Switches- Some use this as the place to check Mags and Masters rather than with Mixture.
Carb Heat- On allows crap to be ingested due to non filtration (premature cylinder wear) and also means you won't achieve specified takeoff power.
Controls- Full, Free and Correct Sense
Full and free should be checked by pushing full forward, full forward and full left, full left and full rearward, full rearward and full right, full right and full forward and back to neutral. There should be no binding or restriction during the movement and this pattern checks all extremes of movement smoothly and professionally (read as not looking like the controls are having an epileptic seizure!)
Correct sense should confirm that the aileron in the direction of turn moves up (check left AND right movement AND both ailerons). Pull back elevator up, push forward elevator down, and left rudder to left side, right rudder to right side.
There have been cases where someone has reassembled the contol system incorrectly after maintenance and the pilot hasn't discovered this until in the air. Scary, huh?
LEGAL REQUIREMENT and ensures no locking devices have been left in place.
Hatches and harnesses (and that bloody seat!) (Secure)- [B]
Ever thought what happens when your seat jumps back while you hold onto the throttle AND control column?[/B]
Good idea at this point to run through an engine failure after takeoff brief in case something goes wrong with the takeoff
All of these items should also be confirmed via checklist as having been completed.
Holding check point should also be performed
eg DG (aligned with compass)
Clearance (if req)
Transponder (on)
Lights (on)
Traffic (clear)
Takeoff checks
FIRST!! Static RPM (Found in Section 2 of POH -Limitations)
Should be checked when aircraft is stationary (or as close as possible) and at max throttle. Below means less than manufacturer's specified power and hence performance is available, above means prop is too worn to produce enough torque to slow down rpms
below the maximum limit. (think
Lift produces
Drag, a prop is an aerofoil at 90 degrees, therefore creates
Thrust and produces
Torque instead of
Drag.
Not enough torque means not enough thrust!! - ABORT)
Second, Engine gauges normal limits
Third, Airspeed indicating and increasing.
(Pause for BIG breath.....)
