- As the carb is situated underneath the engine it is not possible to prime the cylinders with neat fuel therefore once you see fuel coming out of the bottom of the air box then this is primed enough, as, further pumping will only result in more fuel spill (which is not what you want) as this will feed a flame in the unlikely event of a backfire.
- Once you turn the key to start, this action over-rides the normal points in each mag and brings into play a second pair of points in the left mag only (which is pilot side as the engine is mounted arse first). These points are slightly retarded to the normal ones and are used solely for starting, they feed the three top plugs on one bank and the three bottom plugs on the opposite bank.
- The second the engine fires the key is left to spring back to both (which in turn brings both mags back into play via there normal points) fireing two plugs per cylinder in an advanced normal condition.
- A quick way to test whether you have an electrical fault is to squirt a little easystart into the air inlet (preferably while the engine is being cranked) as this will always fire up the engine mixture in or out and if it doesn't you can be pretty certain its electrical. (Do not routinely use this method for starting).
- Almost certainly
it will be your
starting points that will have closed up and will require resetting, therefore, as the mag has to be removed to accomplish this it would be prudent to have both mags checked and re-timed at the same.
Inside the left mag it's not uncommon for the condenser wire to rub against the casing and short out preventing a start (a small piece of sleeveing is required)
The above mag conditions apply to 22s & 44s