FF
Very little to add (radian's pretty much said it all). I visited Krakow in May 2004 as part of a trip around Eastern Europe. We flew into Krakow from Tallin (at FL095 if memory serves me correctly). Rerouted due to military activity in NE Poland and cleared direct destination once clear of the activity. Departed a couple of days later to Budapest. Probably the most straight forward, supportive and coherent ATC service I've ever experienced.
The city itself was great, a very enjoyable visit. Getting there, and out again, was a piece of cake.