There have been a couple of articles about flying in Italy in Popular Flying. Some interesting stuff. Problems with getting fuel and problems with ATC thinking everyone is IFR. but also friendly receptions in many places.
Be wary of going in August. I tried to visit some airfields whilst there on holiday only to find them closed up for 2-3 weeks. The Civil service Admin staff had their summer holidays and so no one was allowed to fly!! Found glider pilots cleaning out their trailers at Turin Aeritalia, but they couldnt get into the hangar where their aircraft were!! The Bureaucrats had taken the keys. Luckily Milan Bresso- probably the biggest GA field in Italy has opened up the day before we visit, following a two week closure! This was 4 years ago, maybe things have improved!