Gaseous,
I have never been trained to "flare" when the engine quits or if the low rotor RPM horn sounds. I've been taught to get the collective down pronto. I am afraid if you've been taught such you have had utterly poor instruction.
Your assertion that the helicopter's attitude has little relevance as far as rotor RPM is concerned is laughable. If you truly think this it's obvious you've never autoed in anything smaller than a Chinook. The first thing I learned was that the lightweight heli's attitude going into an auto is the most important item there is. You may want to speak w/ a CFI sometime soon to understand your errors here. And with all due respect, you are in error.
In my training the CFI would even cover the gauges with a piece of cardboard so I'd get my eyes out and ensure proper attitude during the auto.
Have you ever autoed in an R22? It doesn't sound like you have.
PS
Comparing a Cessna's actions to a Robbie's is ridiculous. And we are talking about a flare increasing rotor RPM in normal instances. If the rotor's stalled, no flare or anything else for that matter is gonna get it back. That's common sense.
And after reading all your recent posts here I am shocked at your total and very mistaken disregard for the crucial need for proper attitude when entering autororation in a light heli.
Do yourself a favor:
W/ CFI aboard, fly an R22 and enter an auto, then roll off throttle and play w/ the heli's attitude. Pushing cyclic forward w/ increase airspeed and lower RRPM. Gentle aft cyclic will immediately increase RRPm. Try it and you'll stop posting wrong info here. You will stop saying that adding aft cyclic won't help a decaying rrpm.
And I am not talking about a blade that's already stalled.
Thanks.
Last edited by 13snoopy; 8th January 2005 at 08:22.