The northern atolls are beauiful. Being torn apart today by foreign fishing vessels that are ripping the guts out of the sea life, especially with illegal shark fishing & gill netting operations.
I knew all the specialists that worked for the DOE & they were totally honest with the good, the bad & the ugly for the northern group, in their areas of expertise.
This was a real live US scientific experiment with generations of Bikini people (& others) that are still today just test tube victims of the system.
The US has a real case study that will last the next 100 years or more.
I would never go to the Enewetak concrete dome covering the radioactive soil as it has, as you point out, been crumbling away from the day it was built.
Did you see the sign - come back in 40,000 years? & that is only 'half life' contamination.
Yes, the Enewetak people are different, as have had strong leadership for many years.
There are some very interesting people in that (4 atoll) group. However, the country has changed after the departure of Amata Kabua. He was a great leader of the people and still missed today.
However, the present President is another excellent leader and better times are just around the corner.