Long shot question, but I'll try anyway
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Long shot question, but I'll try anyway
1996 Ford (new holland) 4600 tractor I use for maintaining the strip wont start unless I turn on ignition then go round to the engine and run a jumper wire from the battery to the starter, when trying to start normally the ignition comes on but the engine would crank similar to the response When the the gearstick or the Forward/reverse lever or high low lever are not in neutral. So i'm assuming it's a "nuetral" sensor on the transmission that's knackered, anyone know where or what to look for before I go pulling stuff apart ?
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Not familiar with Ford or New Holland set up, but on my Marshal the sensor is located adjacent to the Hi-Lo shifter on top of the gearbox.
Easy to bypass, but not too wise to do so. Tractors are very low geared and it is possible to 'run yourself over' if started in gear from outside the cab
Easy to bypass, but not too wise to do so. Tractors are very low geared and it is possible to 'run yourself over' if started in gear from outside the cab
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I am using a 1996 Ford 5000.
have had similar problems that were previously "solved??" by jumpering the starter.
not the way to do it.
on ours there are two start safety interlocks.
the gear lever needs to be in neutral and the high - low range lever needs to be in neutral.
the switch on the high low range selector seems to be crudded up a little and can take a few gear selections to come good.
the interlock switches are there for your protection. work with them.
great airfield tractors BTW.
PS. one of the owners was miffed by the guys selling copies of the maintenance manual so he has it as a free download.
have had similar problems that were previously "solved??" by jumpering the starter.
not the way to do it.
on ours there are two start safety interlocks.
the gear lever needs to be in neutral and the high - low range lever needs to be in neutral.
the switch on the high low range selector seems to be crudded up a little and can take a few gear selections to come good.
the interlock switches are there for your protection. work with them.
great airfield tractors BTW.
PS. one of the owners was miffed by the guys selling copies of the maintenance manual so he has it as a free download.
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Fixed via the lazy man method, ignored the problem for a week, then put the tractor thru a hard days work mowing and now it's starts of the key again, job done, pat on the back me 
Well done you PB - but you just know it's going to do it again sometime 
.
FWIW on my 4000 it's just the hi/lo shift that has the neutral start interlock.
As I recall it the switch is located under the gearshift cover and it looks a bit like an oil-pressure switch from the rear. I'll try and remember to have a look in the next day or so to confirm the location.
They're a good thing to have as others have noted so it might pay to do a bit of preventative maintenance and either replace it, or clean/lubricate as needed. Just make sure you do that with the battery disconnected and the loose lead tied up - tractors don't let much get in their way if they're started in gear, and it's easier to do this work standing alongside them...
FP.
.FWIW on my 4000 it's just the hi/lo shift that has the neutral start interlock.
As I recall it the switch is located under the gearshift cover and it looks a bit like an oil-pressure switch from the rear. I'll try and remember to have a look in the next day or so to confirm the location.
They're a good thing to have as others have noted so it might pay to do a bit of preventative maintenance and either replace it, or clean/lubricate as needed. Just make sure you do that with the battery disconnected and the loose lead tied up - tractors don't let much get in their way if they're started in gear, and it's easier to do this work standing alongside them...
FP.
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I did some experimenting today while using the tractor on the airfield.
what I was told wasn't correct.
on the ford 5000 the start safety interlock is also only on the high - low gear lever.
there is no interlock on the 1-2-3-4-R gear lever.
... I wish people would confine themselves to facts when they tell me things.
what I'd like to know is what oil lubricants are called out for these tractors.
it is in the user manual but not in the servicing manual.
don't have a user manual.
what I was told wasn't correct.
on the ford 5000 the start safety interlock is also only on the high - low gear lever.
there is no interlock on the 1-2-3-4-R gear lever.
... I wish people would confine themselves to facts when they tell me things.
what I'd like to know is what oil lubricants are called out for these tractors.
it is in the user manual but not in the servicing manual.
don't have a user manual.
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Dub8, my 4600 has a slightly different set up, instead of having the reverse on the main (1,2,3,4) gear handle, I've got the "fancier" model with a fwd rev shuttle handle which was designed with the attachment of a front loader in mind, apparently they were quite popular with small dairy farmers as the mainstay tractor and able to muck out and act as a forklift.
I think in addition to the main gears mine has a lock on the F/w shuttle.
As far as oil, I don't have a manual I just use the same engine oil as I use in the land rover and put hydraulic oil in the power steering.
I think in addition to the main gears mine has a lock on the F/w shuttle.
As far as oil, I don't have a manual I just use the same engine oil as I use in the land rover and put hydraulic oil in the power steering.
dubbleyew eight:
FYI here I use a 10W-40 for the engine, Dexron II for the power steering, and a 'specialised' 30/40 for the gearbox and internal hydraulics.
The latter is apparently particularly formulated for wet brakes+hydraulics. Not certain that it really makes much of a difference, after all it's a tractor, not a Ferrari, but it doesn't cost any more so I've tended to try and use the 'right' thing.
I suspect you could get this particular oil where you are - it's a Morris product - I can check for sure if you'd like but I think it's marketed as a 'Universal Tractor Lubricant' or words to that effect. I purchase it in 25L drums as I've a few vehicles to use it on, and it works out cheaper than the smaller containers.
Incidentally if either of you are losing PS fluid then you might like to know that the overhaul kit for the pump is relatively inexpensive, and includes the O-ring that leaks the fluid into the motor when it fails - don't ask me how I know!
PB:
It sounds like your machine is a little different but just in case it helps I did followup and check that in my case the lockout switch is internal and accessed via the top shifter plate as I thought.
Now that I've talked about it I'm sure it's going to start playing up next week...
Anyway, you're all pussies, isn't it about time you got a bulldozer so you can go do some real work
FYI here I use a 10W-40 for the engine, Dexron II for the power steering, and a 'specialised' 30/40 for the gearbox and internal hydraulics.
The latter is apparently particularly formulated for wet brakes+hydraulics. Not certain that it really makes much of a difference, after all it's a tractor, not a Ferrari, but it doesn't cost any more so I've tended to try and use the 'right' thing.
I suspect you could get this particular oil where you are - it's a Morris product - I can check for sure if you'd like but I think it's marketed as a 'Universal Tractor Lubricant' or words to that effect. I purchase it in 25L drums as I've a few vehicles to use it on, and it works out cheaper than the smaller containers.
Incidentally if either of you are losing PS fluid then you might like to know that the overhaul kit for the pump is relatively inexpensive, and includes the O-ring that leaks the fluid into the motor when it fails - don't ask me how I know!
PB:
It sounds like your machine is a little different but just in case it helps I did followup and check that in my case the lockout switch is internal and accessed via the top shifter plate as I thought.
Now that I've talked about it I'm sure it's going to start playing up next week...
Anyway, you're all pussies, isn't it about time you got a bulldozer so you can go do some real work
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thanks for the info.
in hotter australia the tractor might just use Shell or Phillips 100 aircraft oil in the engine.
it is a 50 grade oil. :-)
the other oils are easily available in the local Supercheap Auto shops.
in hotter australia the tractor might just use Shell or Phillips 100 aircraft oil in the engine.
it is a 50 grade oil. :-)
the other oils are easily available in the local Supercheap Auto shops.
