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-   -   Antarctica trip (https://www.pprune.org/rotorheads/396453-antarctica-trip.html)

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 05:52

Antarctica trip
 
I've been prevailed upon to post photos of the trip that I've just had to Antarctica, on the icebreaker L'Astrolabe supporting the French at Dumont D'Urville. Lots and lots of photos (it was my first trip ;) ), not all directly aviation related; but I hope they're interesting nonetheless. I know that many Rotorheads have done this sort of flying many times, and are far more knowledgeable about the area, so just enjoy the views as much as I did :ok:

I only took 900+ photos as the camera broke and would only take one photo, then it had to be turned off, then turned on, then take another shot. I missed a lot of good pics, but there are enough to keep the memories :)

The mess was tiny (like the rest of the ship) and if you didn't like meat and potatoes, you could have potatoes and meat. Nice guys, the Ukranians, but :rolleyes:

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5676/web.jpg

Once into the pack ice, it was time to find a decent size chunk of ice to park on:

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...G_0416/web.jpg

So that we could juggle the helicopters out of "Le Garage"

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5699/web.jpg

On the way through the ice, the penguins started appearing. They're on their way to the nesting grounds, and are so funny to watch:

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5772/web.jpg

Finally parked:

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5776/web.jpg

And out come the helicopters: slowly!

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5775/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5786/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5785/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5790/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...-20333/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...-20356/web.jpg

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 05:55

Once the blades were on, we were scheduled to start ferrying passengers to Dumont D'Urville. Which would have been fine, except that my fuel control cable froze, and in trying to free it, the starter switch assembly fractured in the cold :eek: We had a very capable engineer who managed to get the switch repaired, so we only lost an hour or two :(

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5793/web.jpg

Then the first flights over the coast and the ice. Stunning, it's just so vast that distances are difficult to judge; each of these icebergs is over 250 metres long

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5795/web.jpg

My first Antarctica landing, at Cap Prudhomme

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5800/web.jpg

The coastline in the background: the blues on the iceberg were just stunning

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5812/web.jpg

Many of the bergs in the ice had seal colonies around them, especially if there was a break into the water for them to get through

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5814/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5817/web.jpg

The horizon is well over 100km away in this: it's hard to take in at first!

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5823/web.jpg

Next to DDU is a glacier, this is over the head of the glacier looking to the north, and the bergs that have calved from it

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5827/web.jpg

and over the glacier, looking inland

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5838/web.jpg

More bergs stuck in the ice

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5841/web.jpg

With 165 degrees of magnetic variation, and so close to the magnetic South Pole, the compass just kept spinning most of the time. I was heading east when I took this :eek:

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5854/web.jpg

CGWRA 20th Nov 2009 06:05

Great shots! I love these kinds of threads thanks for sharing with us.

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 06:07

We had a bit of fun trying to keep the internal loads within reason, but we were stuck in the ice 60nm from DDU (Dumont D'Urville) and the turn round times were far more than expected so we had a lot to move over long distances.

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...-20434/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...-20430/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...-20010/web.jpg

Plenty of sling loads, the LTS101 powered B2 manages the loads with ease (and a load cell!), but 60nm at 40 - 60kias can be a PITA :( The prevailing wind was in our favour outbound, and we generally had a headwind only when returning empty

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...-20016/web.jpg

CGWRA 20th Nov 2009 06:27

Why the basket instead of a cargo net? you could fly back with the line and net inside for the return trip without that basket. Unless it folds up?

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 06:34

That was a load of gear for geologists: they needed the basket to bring samples back. It obviously wasn't the right photo to post, how about this one instead ;)

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5913/web.jpg

chcoffshore 20th Nov 2009 06:40

Great photo's thanks:ok:

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 07:04

We were tasked for plenty of underslung cargo work: the mirror will be a familiar sight to many ;)

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5860/web.jpg

We were the first visitors to DDU (Dumont D'Urville) for 10 months. As well as all turning out to unload the cargo we brought, they raised the flags for us, too!

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5861/web.jpg

The most intense colours were deep inside the icebergs

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5866/web.jpg

This is DDU, with the runway and hangar in the foreground. CASA 212's run into the strip from next month

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5869/web.jpg

More of the glacier next to DDU

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5872/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5873/web.jpg

Because of forecast strong winds, we took the blades off and craned one machine into shelter on the cargo hatch

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5879/web.jpg

What a first day of Antarctic flying!

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5884/web.jpg

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 07:07

On an average year, L'Astrolabe gets closer than 20nm to DDU in the November cruise. Often they can get almost alongside the DDU runway, but as with all averages, there are years like this where the ice was too thick to get closer than 50nm. We had a round trip (with loading/unloading) took about 1 hour 20 minutes, so we then ran into flight and duty times limits, but the magic of SatPhones got us an exemption from CASA to meet the demands of extra flying.

L'Astrolabe is a fairly small icebreaker, and having got where she did the ice then closed around us for a long time. Enough to get a bit worried about getting home on schedule, and lots of hot water piped over the side to free us up from the ice.

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5896/web.jpg

Lots of freight and goods were flown into Cap Prudhomme, the satellite base from DDU: and yes, that is their own ski slope up the hill :)

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5904/web.jpg

The major factor in breaking up the ice is bad weather, followed by tidal effects. As the tide 'comes in' the ice breaks up a bit, then as the tide goes down, the sections of ice collide and often ride over each other. Well shown in this aerial:

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5905/web.jpg

As my hook played up initially the other pilot got to do lots of sling loads, mostly at 40 - 60 knots. I was quite happy to cruise past with internal loads at 120 knots instead :)

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5913/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5915/web.jpg

DDU is in the middle of a nesting area. Lots of penguins, and associated smells :(

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...G_0427/web.jpg

Whilst Cap Prudhomme has the neatest quad bike :D (iPhone photo, not the best)

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...G_0432/web.jpg

eivissa 20th Nov 2009 07:20

Thanks for sharing these stunning pictures with us. It must have been a great trip. :ok:

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 07:20

Having "settled in" to the routine flying, I got into taking a few more iceberg shots: here's a small selection of "views from the cockpit"

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5918/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5920/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5924/web.jpg

This berg shows the mud and debris from the ocean floor, before it turned over

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5926/web.jpg

More of the glacier break-up

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5935/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5939/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5940/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5952/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5955/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5956/web.jpg

jockspice 20th Nov 2009 08:12

Fantastic! Great flying and breathtaking scenery - what more could anyone ask for? Thanks for sharing. :ok::ok::ok:

VeeAny 20th Nov 2009 08:29

John

Like others have said, thank for sharing.

Those pictures are stunning.

Gary

heliski22 20th Nov 2009 08:45

Many thanks, John!

For those of us who have never had and most likely will never have the experience, this is truly spectaular stuff!

Well done!

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 08:52

Lots of seal pups were there: this one (& Mum) had the inevitable gaggle of Adelies nosing around to the right of the photo

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5962/web.jpg

I managed lunch at DDU, and a quick nose around to see the rapidly increasing penguin population. Only a week earlier the total number of penguins was zero!

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5964/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5966/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5967/web.jpg

The choice of a good looking pebble to offer your loved one is imperative: their whole world seems to revolve around the pebble 'nest', and raiding another male's offering is grounds for a serious fight :eek:

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5971/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102043/helico8/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...lico10/web.jpg

Pandalet 20th Nov 2009 09:00

Yup, that's what makes me want to be a helicopter pilot. Thanks for sharing!

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 09:06

The ice doesn't always look very thick, but the amount below the surface is always significantly more than on the surface

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5984/web.jpg

More bergs: you may be able to make out the annual snowfall layers in some shots

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5985/web.jpg

This was my "landmark" berg that I could see from 50 nm away, to get back to the ship

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5990/web.jpg

Some ice creep off the continent next to Cap Prudhomme

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5992/web.jpg

and a bit of a cornice

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN5995/web.jpg

There are times when the lack of flight instruments isn't a Good Thing :(

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6001/web.jpg

We went to Pt Martin to drop some geologists, rock hoppers in the ice! The French built a base there back around 1950, and only 2 years later it burnt down at the beginning of winter. The Expeditioners had to survive the winter in one remaining survival hut, with what little they salvaged to eat. The wreckage is till there, no attempt seems to have been made to clean it up.

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6005/web.jpg

Some of the nearby coastline

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6008/web.jpg

Back at DDU, they must be Top Gear fans: one indestructible HiLux :)

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6010/web.jpg

DDU bar and grill. 10 winter months must go very slowly....

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6016/web.jpg

The DDU walkways take a bit of clearing, too

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6018/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...iff-sm/web.jpg

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 09:09

As we became more of a feature, stuck in the ice, we attracted more wandering penguins as they came for a look

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6024/web.jpg

Maybe the hot water being pumped around the ship to try to break out was unusual?

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6055/web.jpg

But the opportunity to get onto the ice and see the penguins was something else!

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...G_0748/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6044/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6045/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6049/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6051/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6052/web.jpg

The ship's fuel was shifted to list her to try to break off the ice

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6057/web.jpg

and for a short time we thought we were free of the ice

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6065/web.jpg

While the penguins swam alongside us like a pod of dolphins

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...mp3-sm/web.jpg

Until a couple of hours to sunset, and time for more rest ;)

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6074/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6072/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6073/web.jpg

John Eacott 20th Nov 2009 09:11

Once we finished transferring pax and freight to DDU, the next task was geological and glacial research. We took a group of rock hoppers out to Correl, a rock outcrop near the Mertz Glacier which has been identified as having the same rock as South Australia. Finding somewhere to land was challenging, especially as the constant katabatic wind scours around the rock, with many gusts and eddies

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6083/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6079/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...C03904/web.jpg

View from the cockpit

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6078/web.jpg

While they were drilling for rocks, we nipped off to the Mertz Glacier to look for old GPS stations. They are tracked to map the position of the Mertz, which has a crack developing which will eventually allow 100 years of glacial growth to separate and float off into the ocean. A natural event, it has been monitored for 30 years by the French, and could completely break within years.

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6087/web.jpg

The crack is growing from both sides of the glacier, plus offshoots in the bulk of the glacier

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6095/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6098/web.jpg

While we refuelled, one of the French glaciologists wanted a photo with the penguins and glacier in the background. Who was I to say no? ;)

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6104/web.jpg

When we got back to the ship it was slowly grinding to a halt in the ice, but before we shuddered to a stop we had a visit from three Orcas :eek:

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/101...CN6108/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...109-sm/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...109-sm/web.jpg

http://gallery.me.com/johneacott/102...109-sm/web.jpg

compressor stall 20th Nov 2009 09:23

Great shots John. Welcome to my world! One the ice is in your veins, you can't leave it. :ok:

I have had many trips sitting in the back of that ute with Patrice driving across the sea ice ... always an adrenaline rush :)

And a minor correction - the runway next to the base has never been used - a looong story:}. All fixed wing aircraft use a skiway about 5 kms from Cap Prud'Homme up on the plateau.


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