Hughes 500 Battery
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Hughes 500 Battery
I would like to keep the battery on my 500C topped up, but it's not an easy job to remove and can't be done in the aircraft. Does anyone know if there is an EASA approved charging kit available. I had in mind a simple socket either near the master switch or in the battery box so that i can simply plug in a battery charger. The battery is a Gill 7641-20.
Kid,
Before spending money on charger have mechanic/engineer check electrical system for a parasitic drain on battery. This condition is usually caused by a faulty component (switch, relay, etc.) allowing very low level of current to flow with the Master switch off.
A simple check is to put a multi-meter inline with the negative connection at the battery and set to read amps. The positive remains connected. If meter indicates amperage (a load) then start pulling circuit breakers one at a time until load is removed which normally will isolate your problem to that electrical circuit.
With today's technology and shelf lives, batteries should not auto-discharge unless it is being electrically consumed or its static capacitance level is below minimums. An exterior cause could also be the aircraft charging system is not operating correctly.
I normally just recommend disconnecting the battery, or at least the negative connection when aircraft not in use. This method has worked for extended periods provided the battery is up to spec. Most aircraft lead acid batteries have some kind of scheduled inspection to check capacitance, etc.
But if you still want a charger I attached a couple links to what some pilots use on my side of the pond.
As for EASA "approved" systems, don't know except these chargers fall below the approval level requirements here, unless you wanted to permanently install system and connect to the main aircraft electrical system--which I do not recommend.
Long post, but have seen too many people spend a lot of money not fix the problem.
Good luck. W1
GILL GC-024 24VDC CHARGER from Aircraft Spruce
Aircraft Battery Charger | Aviation Specific Maintainers
Chargers, Battery from Aircraft Spruce
Before spending money on charger have mechanic/engineer check electrical system for a parasitic drain on battery. This condition is usually caused by a faulty component (switch, relay, etc.) allowing very low level of current to flow with the Master switch off.
A simple check is to put a multi-meter inline with the negative connection at the battery and set to read amps. The positive remains connected. If meter indicates amperage (a load) then start pulling circuit breakers one at a time until load is removed which normally will isolate your problem to that electrical circuit.
With today's technology and shelf lives, batteries should not auto-discharge unless it is being electrically consumed or its static capacitance level is below minimums. An exterior cause could also be the aircraft charging system is not operating correctly.
I normally just recommend disconnecting the battery, or at least the negative connection when aircraft not in use. This method has worked for extended periods provided the battery is up to spec. Most aircraft lead acid batteries have some kind of scheduled inspection to check capacitance, etc.
But if you still want a charger I attached a couple links to what some pilots use on my side of the pond.
As for EASA "approved" systems, don't know except these chargers fall below the approval level requirements here, unless you wanted to permanently install system and connect to the main aircraft electrical system--which I do not recommend.
Long post, but have seen too many people spend a lot of money not fix the problem.
Good luck. W1
GILL GC-024 24VDC CHARGER from Aircraft Spruce
Aircraft Battery Charger | Aviation Specific Maintainers
Chargers, Battery from Aircraft Spruce
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What's the life expectancy on a turbine battery?
I use a Gill G641 and 2-3 years seems to be the disappointing norm. That's disconnecting it when not in use and about 200 start cycles pa.
I use a Gill G641 and 2-3 years seems to be the disappointing norm. That's disconnecting it when not in use and about 200 start cycles pa.
Wouldn't bother with a charger. much better to buy a kool spool or similar. Use it for the first start of the day. Mine has done close to 1000 starts and still going strong. Does make you wonder when the battery is smaller, cheaper, lasts longer and gives a better start than the internal battery.
As normal in this industry the manufacturer takes the piss on quality and what it costs !
As normal in this industry the manufacturer takes the piss on quality and what it costs !
Odyssey batteries are great but no idea how you would get them approved in EASA land. Pretty common down south under approved design organisation EO.
Commercial dry cell sealed batteries. Apart from a scheduled in situ visual inspection no maintenance required. Occasional top up charge and at least two years service is normal. Only a few hundred $ a pop.
Used them in the bush on 500's/206L4's/AS350's and my fuzzy memory recalls seeing a set up on a Lama replacing the NiCad bank!
Hughes500
Your kool spool will have Odyssey or similar. Streets ahead of "OEM approved" batteries for aircraft installations
Commercial dry cell sealed batteries. Apart from a scheduled in situ visual inspection no maintenance required. Occasional top up charge and at least two years service is normal. Only a few hundred $ a pop.
Used them in the bush on 500's/206L4's/AS350's and my fuzzy memory recalls seeing a set up on a Lama replacing the NiCad bank!
Hughes500
Your kool spool will have Odyssey or similar. Streets ahead of "OEM approved" batteries for aircraft installations
Last edited by Salusa; 25th Aug 2015 at 14:13. Reason: reply to Hughes500
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I am making an assumption that the battery is of the "SLA" type
these are still "wet" batteries, but the electrolyte is soaked into porous blankets between the plates, which also stops them buckling and shorting against each other and stops the paste crumbling to a heap at the bottom of the cell and shorting the plates that way.....now, somehow the battery has to be filled and vented.....there is normally a cover-plate which is bonded/stuck with a well-concealed joint (sometimes under the brand-label)...Under the cover are a series of "chimneys"..one per cell..... each is closed by a soft vinyl/rubber cap....sliding the cap off, reveals the cell which is probably bone dry adding a few teaspoons of distilled/deionised water, restores conductivity and the correct specific gravity.....in use, overcharging causes the water to decompose ..the oxygen/hydrogen mix will push out past the closure cap at very low pressure and will vent. cooling or any other cause of negative pressure within the cell will just "suck" the cap onto the chimney more tightly.
This drying out means many a serviceable battery is junked....'cos they are sealed units and maintenance-free, innit?
starting off a "slave" battery makes good sense.
deep-cycling a battery not specifically built for the job, shortens it's life....a constant float charge, minimal surface-discharge and immediate recharge will lengthen it's life....conversely, a laboured start followed by the alty cramming in a heavy fast recharge, kill them!
these are still "wet" batteries, but the electrolyte is soaked into porous blankets between the plates, which also stops them buckling and shorting against each other and stops the paste crumbling to a heap at the bottom of the cell and shorting the plates that way.....now, somehow the battery has to be filled and vented.....there is normally a cover-plate which is bonded/stuck with a well-concealed joint (sometimes under the brand-label)...Under the cover are a series of "chimneys"..one per cell..... each is closed by a soft vinyl/rubber cap....sliding the cap off, reveals the cell which is probably bone dry adding a few teaspoons of distilled/deionised water, restores conductivity and the correct specific gravity.....in use, overcharging causes the water to decompose ..the oxygen/hydrogen mix will push out past the closure cap at very low pressure and will vent. cooling or any other cause of negative pressure within the cell will just "suck" the cap onto the chimney more tightly.
This drying out means many a serviceable battery is junked....'cos they are sealed units and maintenance-free, innit?
starting off a "slave" battery makes good sense.
deep-cycling a battery not specifically built for the job, shortens it's life....a constant float charge, minimal surface-discharge and immediate recharge will lengthen it's life....conversely, a laboured start followed by the alty cramming in a heavy fast recharge, kill them!
GILL appear to have a quality control problem, we have gone through 3 Gill's in about 4 years. We gave up and moved to Concorde even though they are dearer. Easy to do for fixed wing as there is a greater choice. Not sure what you do for a helicopter
