No, the temperatures in my region are roughly the same as in UK, previous oil was AeroShell W100 with Lyco additive (prescribed). With this the oil pressures were rather low if idle and warm 45-48psi. At higher RPM between 50 and 70 psi.

The CHT are between 260 and 350 F. I have never seen more than 375 F.
Oil temps are up to 170 F, never seen more.

Miroc

Px indicators
 

Quote:-If the sensor is an electronic one, a simple test is to power up the instruments without starting the engine. If your oil pressure goes up you have an instrument/sensor problem. If it only goes up once you start the engine then you probably have a stuck PRV .

This statment is untrue in modern indication systems, these systems have an expected operation range so for instance zero PSI might register as 5 volts at the G1000 and 90 psi as 25 volts this way if there is a problem and the PX sender is telling the G1000 a voltage that is above or below the range the system troubleshooting part of the set up program will tell you that the indication is not plausable and so point to a px sender or wiring problem

If the gauge shows a nonzero pressure reading with the engine stopped then I would say it is definitely an instrument problem :)

Fortunately, a load of G1000 installation manuals have found their way out into the wild ;)

Is it possible that the high pressure is caused by dirty/blocked oil filter? This filter is the first resistance in the lubrication system after the pump. Have you ever seen that?

BTW that would be the cheapest solution, to change the oil and filter. :E

I can not positively recall if the reading was zero with engine standing still. But probably was as it would catch my attention if the gauge before the engine start would be in unusual position. Will check next time.

The instalation manuals are worth reading too...

If everything fails and the anomaly can not be diagnosed, what would you do? Overhaul?

Might be a blocked filter. Filters have a pressure relief valve and maybe this is set to 90psi.

New oil and filter is a fairly cheap option.

If the filter is blocked then you do have a big problem, but cutting the old one open will allow you to check this.

I do still think the valve is a regulator rather than a pressure relief. ie it almost always has some oil flowing and the amount that flows controls the pressure. Otherwise the oil pressure would change a lot between idle and full rpm.

Also, I would suspect the oil pressure sender rather than the G1000. It might still read correctly at zero pressure but not be correct at high pressure. The only way is to test it or swap it.

The oil pressure when hot in my 0-360 engined RV6 is normally 75 to 80 lbs at normal cruise RPM of 2300 to 2400.

What I have fould is that switching from W80 and W100 to Shell 15/50 multigrade has reduced my oil consumption from 1qt every 7-8 hours to 12 -14 hours.

Of course we are all assuming that the gauges are accurate ?

Regards
JOHN