Slight bit of rust on the barrel fins
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Glens o' Angus by way of LA
Age: 60
Posts: 1,975
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Slight bit of rust on the barrel fins
Need a bit of advice, doing some routine fixing of the plane and have a light rust covering part of the barrel fins and also have the paint rubbed of where the baffeling meets the fins, I have ordered lycoming grey engine paint and plan on giving the fins a rub down and repaint on an as needed basis,do I use any kind of primer or prep prior to painting on the lycoming grey?
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: north of barlu
Posts: 6,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To do the job properly you need a primer and top coat, these are best applied with the cylinder off the engine and heated in an oven after painting to fully cure the paint.
There is also a Lycoming SB on the subject of the effect of paint on the nuts holding done the cylinder.
There is also a Lycoming SB on the subject of the effect of paint on the nuts holding done the cylinder.
Spoon PPRuNerist & Mad Inistrator
heated in an oven after painting to fully cure the paint.
SD
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Hotels
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Humbrol or airfix works well.
Scale Plastic Model Kits by Airfix - 31 Slate Grey Matt - 14ml Enamel Paint
Or for a realistic club training aircraft look;
Humbrol Weathering Powder: Dried Mud, Dust & Rust
Scale Plastic Model Kits by Airfix - 31 Slate Grey Matt - 14ml Enamel Paint
Or for a realistic club training aircraft look;
Humbrol Weathering Powder: Dried Mud, Dust & Rust
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: north of barlu
Posts: 6,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Echo Romeo
If I remember correctly ( I am away from the hangar for a few days and can't check ) we use a very light dusting of a standard etch primer.
No paint mist go under the cylinder nuts so after assembly we touch in this area with a small brush, this is not ideal but better than having the cylinder nuts come off !
No paint mist go under the cylinder nuts so after assembly we touch in this area with a small brush, this is not ideal but better than having the cylinder nuts come off !
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: lancs.UK
Age: 77
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
interesting point, a&c aiui the base nuts are a relatively low torque and no loctite or locking wire......seems crazy to me, especially when one hears that a jug coming loose is a not uncommon occurence I know of a 172 donk that lost one at less than 20 hours, from a fully rebuilt donk pilot=owner less than impressed.
WRT paint, surely the less , the better ? I would imagine it has a marginal insulating effect , which arguably helps even up temp. variations....but hey, it protects a cold surface from condensation and surface rust....in the due course of time , i'd expect any paint to bake on then, as years pass, to dry out, oxidise, shrink, crack, peel.....generally the item is scrapped before this point is reached.
Agreed an ideal refinishing would involve proper stripping , surface prep and spraying (not good with fins ) or dipping/centrifuging followed by stoving.....but it's just a lycosaurus aero-engine and i suspect the paint is primarily cosmetic...(otherwise it would be matt black)
just my take on it...standing by for incoming
WRT paint, surely the less , the better ? I would imagine it has a marginal insulating effect , which arguably helps even up temp. variations....but hey, it protects a cold surface from condensation and surface rust....in the due course of time , i'd expect any paint to bake on then, as years pass, to dry out, oxidise, shrink, crack, peel.....generally the item is scrapped before this point is reached.
Agreed an ideal refinishing would involve proper stripping , surface prep and spraying (not good with fins ) or dipping/centrifuging followed by stoving.....but it's just a lycosaurus aero-engine and i suspect the paint is primarily cosmetic...(otherwise it would be matt black)
just my take on it...standing by for incoming
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: north of barlu
Posts: 6,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Steve
I suspect the cylinders coming off was due to the SB about the paint NOT being complied with rather than the torque loading on the nuts.
I have ( in thirty years ) yet to see a properly fitted Lycoming cylinder come adrift, I would say that the load on the cylinder through studs increases a lot as the engine expands with heat and the relitivly low torque load turns into a substantial force when the engine reaches working temp.
I have ( in thirty years ) yet to see a properly fitted Lycoming cylinder come adrift, I would say that the load on the cylinder through studs increases a lot as the engine expands with heat and the relitivly low torque load turns into a substantial force when the engine reaches working temp.
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Cilboldentune, Britannia
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On some engines I've seen the use of 'single thread hex nuts' are used as lock nuts for the base cylinder nuts. I don't know how effective they are!
See here: http://www.trinitylogisticsgroup.com...d_hex_nuts.pdf
Most of the new engines I've seen do not seem to have any primer and are painted just like you would use Hammerite ie one coat.
See here: http://www.trinitylogisticsgroup.com...d_hex_nuts.pdf
Most of the new engines I've seen do not seem to have any primer and are painted just like you would use Hammerite ie one coat.