Help with Camera Choice
http://www.pprune.org/forums/showthr...ght=jumpseater
A very good thread, without the 'brand bitch fest' that can break out when peeps start talking cameras!
rgds
js
A very good thread, without the 'brand bitch fest' that can break out when peeps start talking cameras!
rgds
js
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I have a Nikon D80 with the VR 18-200 lenses. I find it takes excellent photos in full auto mode and am still getting used to the other functions. It works well for airborne shots thanks to the VR (anti vibration) capability, yet the lens is long enough to get reasonable ground-air shots, especially if you keep a low Iso setting and just enlarge the photos on the computer.
For the Nikon, this lens equates to a 28-300 in 35mm equivalent terms - a 1.5 equivalence ratio. Other brands have different ratios - eg, Olympus have a 2x factor, due to the smaller sensor; Canon are (I think) 1.6x.
The only thing I find is that the Nikon is bulkier than I'd like - there's little point in taking it along just in case you want to use it. The Olympus E-410 is much smaller and lighter and worth considering, but feels less solidly built and I don't think offers the VR capability. And it doesn't seem to be available in Oz yet.
For the Nikon, this lens equates to a 28-300 in 35mm equivalent terms - a 1.5 equivalence ratio. Other brands have different ratios - eg, Olympus have a 2x factor, due to the smaller sensor; Canon are (I think) 1.6x.
The only thing I find is that the Nikon is bulkier than I'd like - there's little point in taking it along just in case you want to use it. The Olympus E-410 is much smaller and lighter and worth considering, but feels less solidly built and I don't think offers the VR capability. And it doesn't seem to be available in Oz yet.
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Proud new owner of a Pentax K100D with 18-50mm & 55-200mm lenses 
Only being playing with it for a few hours but am already impressed with the quality and ease. RAW's are just plain awesome!
Not just have to learn how to take good photos
Only being playing with it for a few hours but am already impressed with the quality and ease. RAW's are just plain awesome!
Not just have to learn how to take good photos
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Enjoy yourself with it and just get used to the camera by taking as many pics as you want - that's the great thing about digital - once you've got the gear is doesn't cost anything to take the pics!
As for technicalities, as has been mentioned on here, a shutter speed of 1/500sec will be OK, in most cases, to stop movement, but still allow a small amount of prop blur:
http://paulcoulthread.fotopic.net/p41941033.html
(tech specs: ISO200, 1/640 @ f/11, lens at 110mm)
If taking pictures of aircraft, get used to 'panning', following the moving aircraft as it passes and gently press the shutter relaease when you are happy with positioning in the viewfinder - and don't forget to 'follow through' - keep the panning movement going after you have pressed the button:
http://paulcoulthread.fotopic.net/p42015204.html
(again, ISO200, 1/500 @ f8, using a 70-210 lens)
I do have a number of photos taken from aircraft cockpits, but not on my website - main points, look out for internal reflections from the canopy (don't forget the position of these will change in relation to the direction of the sun!), avoid banging the lens against the canopy and, above all, if you are flying the plane as well, that takes precedence over the photography!!!
As for the 'brand bitch' comments made (not at me, I realise), I work in the photographic trade, have changed from Nikon to Canon (helped in no small amount by the aftermath of a divorce!) and have been quite impressed with the Pentax digitals.
Like I said, get out there, enjoy yourself and, looking at my watch, it's nearly time for bed, so don't stay up all night playing with your camera and reading the manual ('tho Pentax manuals are probably the best in the business!)
As for technicalities, as has been mentioned on here, a shutter speed of 1/500sec will be OK, in most cases, to stop movement, but still allow a small amount of prop blur:
http://paulcoulthread.fotopic.net/p41941033.html
(tech specs: ISO200, 1/640 @ f/11, lens at 110mm)
If taking pictures of aircraft, get used to 'panning', following the moving aircraft as it passes and gently press the shutter relaease when you are happy with positioning in the viewfinder - and don't forget to 'follow through' - keep the panning movement going after you have pressed the button:
http://paulcoulthread.fotopic.net/p42015204.html
(again, ISO200, 1/500 @ f8, using a 70-210 lens)
I do have a number of photos taken from aircraft cockpits, but not on my website - main points, look out for internal reflections from the canopy (don't forget the position of these will change in relation to the direction of the sun!), avoid banging the lens against the canopy and, above all, if you are flying the plane as well, that takes precedence over the photography!!!
As for the 'brand bitch' comments made (not at me, I realise), I work in the photographic trade, have changed from Nikon to Canon (helped in no small amount by the aftermath of a divorce!) and have been quite impressed with the Pentax digitals.
Like I said, get out there, enjoy yourself and, looking at my watch, it's nearly time for bed, so don't stay up all night playing with your camera and reading the manual ('tho Pentax manuals are probably the best in the business!)
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I have a Nikon D70s DSLR and a Nikon F90x 35mm from years ago. The great thing is that my lenses are interchangeable and I've picked up a couple of bargain lenses designed for the film range to use on my DSLR. Why Nikon? I bought the F90x secondhand for good price, no other reason! I've used Canon as well and to be honest I think they are both excellent ranges of SLRs. The other thing to consider is do any of your friends have DSLRs? If so, get the same brand as them, then you can steal lenses off each other!!!
And for the man whom I think is the web's authority on all things Nikon:
http://www.kenrockwell.com
And a users guide for D40
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40...uide/index.htm
And for the man whom I think is the web's authority on all things Nikon:
http://www.kenrockwell.com
And a users guide for D40
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d40...uide/index.htm
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I've nothing bad to say about any brand, but I am completly happy with my Canon digital EOS. 28-135, and 100-400 image stabilized lenses, both excellent. I've done lots of air to air, with very pleasing results.
Pilot DAR
Pilot DAR
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I have a Nikon D80; it's a fantastic camera.
The Canon EOS 400D is significantly cheaper and comes very very close to the D80 in performance according to reviews. I only went with the D80 because I already had Nikon accessories and by the time I'd sold them on eBay (at a loss) and bought the Canon equivalents I'd have spent as much money.
You mentioned in an earlier post "Canon EOS 400D is a great camera, just out of my price range at the moment". I bought a lesser camera on that basis a couple of years ago and regretted it - eventually I sold it (at a loss) and bought the D80 that I always really wanted.
My advice for what it's worth - cancel a couple of flights, bank the money and go for the EOS 400D or D80.
RC
The Canon EOS 400D is significantly cheaper and comes very very close to the D80 in performance according to reviews. I only went with the D80 because I already had Nikon accessories and by the time I'd sold them on eBay (at a loss) and bought the Canon equivalents I'd have spent as much money.
You mentioned in an earlier post "Canon EOS 400D is a great camera, just out of my price range at the moment". I bought a lesser camera on that basis a couple of years ago and regretted it - eventually I sold it (at a loss) and bought the D80 that I always really wanted.
My advice for what it's worth - cancel a couple of flights, bank the money and go for the EOS 400D or D80.
RC
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Managed to get out and do some flying this morning with the new camera......
All good, except I left the ISO set at 3200 by accident so everything came out really grainy. Oh well, wont make that mistake again.
It was a bit hazy, would a lens filter of some sort help?
Ozzi
All good, except I left the ISO set at 3200 by accident
so everything came out really grainy. Oh well, wont make that mistake again.It was a bit hazy, would a lens filter of some sort help?
Ozzi
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Ozzi said:
You could use a UV filter, sometimes called a Haze filter - this can help reduce haze, but also acts as a protective cover for the front lens element - fingerprints left on here can be cleaned off a lot easier than if they were on the lens itself.
Yoy may also want to consider a polarising filter, which will help give more contrast between clouds and sky (works best at 90 degrees to the direction of the sun) and can also be used as a Neutral Density filter if you want to cut down on the amount of light reaching the sensor. Make sure you get a Circular Polariser, not Linear, or you'll find that the autofocus won't work!
would a lens filter of some sort help?
Yoy may also want to consider a polarising filter, which will help give more contrast between clouds and sky (works best at 90 degrees to the direction of the sun) and can also be used as a Neutral Density filter if you want to cut down on the amount of light reaching the sensor. Make sure you get a Circular Polariser, not Linear, or you'll find that the autofocus won't work!
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My standard camera setting for aerial shots (Pentax DL DSLR) is AV mode (constant aperture, variable shutter speed) and F4 (the smallest F number with the particular lens). This usually results in 1/3000 or so.
The annoyance is that if shooting over the cowling, 9 times out of 10 there is a very prominent prop blade frozen in the picture.
I used to use a polarized filter years ago; it darkens the sky and generally increases the contrast, but I am not sure of the benefit in the most typical scenario: haze. It produces dramatic - almost unreal - results with a clear blue sky and a sunlit landscape.
The annoyance is that if shooting over the cowling, 9 times out of 10 there is a very prominent prop blade frozen in the picture.
I used to use a polarized filter years ago; it darkens the sky and generally increases the contrast, but I am not sure of the benefit in the most typical scenario: haze. It produces dramatic - almost unreal - results with a clear blue sky and a sunlit landscape.
Dir. PPRuNe Line Service
If you do have to use a high ISO, e.g. 1600 or 3200, then you'll get noisy pictures. The Canon SLRs have a (very well deserved) reputation for producing clean images even at high ISOs, however at 3200, this noise is definitely an issue with any camera.
Fortunately, there is a wonderful piece of software called "Noise Ninja" which does a fantastic job of reducing this noise..... just google for it.
Mik, aka PPD
Fortunately, there is a wonderful piece of software called "Noise Ninja" which does a fantastic job of reducing this noise..... just google for it.
Mik, aka PPD
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Dust removal is certainly desirable; but the Nikon D80 doesn't have it. I rationalised the purchase despite that omission on the basis that by using a single lens which would cover 99.5% of my needs - the 18-200 - I would rarely if ever need to have the lens of the camera and hence would have little or no risk of dust in the body.
Still wish the Nikon were a little lighter to lug around, though, especially with the 18-200 zoom attached...
Still wish the Nikon were a little lighter to lug around, though, especially with the 18-200 zoom attached...
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Hi All,
I recently bought a Canon EOS 400D DSLR with an 18-55mm f4 zoom lens and as part of the deal had a Tamron 70-300mm f4-5.6. This combination has been an absolutly brilliant buy for my needs. I have shot aircraft, flying and on the ground, model aircraft, ditto, cricket, candids, wildlife and ordinary holiday snaps. I have used it in very low light hand held at 1/5th sec and thanks to the image stabalisation system a useable picture.
how do you post pics here. I've got some quite good ones.
Chris
I recently bought a Canon EOS 400D DSLR with an 18-55mm f4 zoom lens and as part of the deal had a Tamron 70-300mm f4-5.6. This combination has been an absolutly brilliant buy for my needs. I have shot aircraft, flying and on the ground, model aircraft, ditto, cricket, candids, wildlife and ordinary holiday snaps. I have used it in very low light hand held at 1/5th sec and thanks to the image stabalisation system a useable picture.
how do you post pics here. I've got some quite good ones.
Chris
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Can anyone suggest some common settings for in-flight and ground to air shots?
Beginner needs some help finding the right combination, even though AUTO does a pretty good job
Ozzi
Beginner needs some help finding the right combination, even though AUTO does a pretty good job
Ozzi
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Ozzi said:
I usually use ISO 100, 1/500 sec and about f8 - f-11, depending on lighting - as a reasonable area to start for ground to air - will need to check back on details for a/a as it's a while since I've done any!
http://paulcoulthread.fotopic.net/p44555167.html
Can anyone suggest some common settings for in-flight and ground to air shots?
http://paulcoulthread.fotopic.net/p44555167.html
