MT Coposit Prop for PA28 series
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MT Coposit Prop for PA28 series
Has anyone had any experience with the MT 3 bladed prop for Warriors & Arrow? Mostly interested in them from the point that they have a stainless steel strip on the leading edge. Our props are taking a terrible beating from stones. The airport operator wont spend any more than $2 on airport works, as it's not his problem.
Are the stainless steel strips on the leading edge of the prop more resilient to small stones and how easy is it to replace. Also curious about the performance, of course the MT website says performance is ++.
Are the stainless steel strips on the leading edge of the prop more resilient to small stones and how easy is it to replace. Also curious about the performance, of course the MT website says performance is ++.
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If your operating from a gravel runway/taxiways and stone damage is a problem, the single worst choice for a prop would be an MT prop in my opinion. I've pulled the same MT prop off an aircraft of similar stature aircraft 3 times between annuals for it to be repaired due stone damage.
They are a fantastic prop in regards to weight and performance and they have no real throw away TBO/clalender time because they can always be rebuilt. However, your metal prop will take absolute punishment and continue in service (in most cases) whereas a single stone chip will render your MT U/S and require repair. FYI no workshops that I'm aware of will replace a leading edge on wing. Instead it will have to be removed, sent for repair which is not simply a case of sticking on a new leading edge. You'll get a bill for removal/installation and a bill from the prop shop for repair.
For the kind of dollars you'll spend on your composite during it's life, you could instead get a single life out of a metal prop and buy a new one at TBO.
I really do like the props that MT make. The performance numbers are outstanding and they look fantastic. Fairly quiet too in most installations that I've had experience with.
An excellent product. But better suited to some installations and for others not so much.
Cheers
They are a fantastic prop in regards to weight and performance and they have no real throw away TBO/clalender time because they can always be rebuilt. However, your metal prop will take absolute punishment and continue in service (in most cases) whereas a single stone chip will render your MT U/S and require repair. FYI no workshops that I'm aware of will replace a leading edge on wing. Instead it will have to be removed, sent for repair which is not simply a case of sticking on a new leading edge. You'll get a bill for removal/installation and a bill from the prop shop for repair.
For the kind of dollars you'll spend on your composite during it's life, you could instead get a single life out of a metal prop and buy a new one at TBO.
I really do like the props that MT make. The performance numbers are outstanding and they look fantastic. Fairly quiet too in most installations that I've had experience with.
An excellent product. But better suited to some installations and for others not so much.
Cheers
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I'd be interested to hear about anyone's experience with them, regardless of model, as I'm thinking about getting 2 for my PA34.
I've been talking to a guy named John from ACS Propeller at YBAF, and he says the are very repairable, both from whacks to the leading edge and the blade itself.
I would be very happy to hear from someone that is actually using them as well though.
I've been talking to a guy named John from ACS Propeller at YBAF, and he says the are very repairable, both from whacks to the leading edge and the blade itself.
I would be very happy to hear from someone that is actually using them as well though.
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It is critical to understand that the type of damage that is essential to address in a metal prop because of the risk of the damage acting as stress riser and starting a fatigue crack is not going to be as critical on the protective strip on the leading edge of am MT prop.
These leading edges can be filled with a little thick resin to recover the profile as Long as the damage is small however the security of the leading edge protective strip is critical.
As said above these blades don't have a life and the only place in Europe that you can get new leading edges fitted is the factory, perhaps being so far from the factory a Southern Hemisphere repair facility is needed.
These leading edges can be filled with a little thick resin to recover the profile as Long as the damage is small however the security of the leading edge protective strip is critical.
As said above these blades don't have a life and the only place in Europe that you can get new leading edges fitted is the factory, perhaps being so far from the factory a Southern Hemisphere repair facility is needed.
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There are several prop shops in OZ with MT repair approvals. Southern and Australian are two I can think of. The 6 year calendar TBO could be an issue for private ops though.
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try this instead!
Prop damage?
Usually caused by people raised (aka "taught to fly") at a capital city where loose stones are unheard of!
Before spending many $1000s on new props that MAY help try:
1. Not hitting 1500RPM on start
2. Hold elevator full back always (yeah I know except with a howling tailwind...)
3. Run up into wind on a clean area (and into wind so that full back elevator does more to raise nose - may also help with cooling).
4. SLOWLY increase power on takeoff!! (I have actually had people stand on the brakes, increase power to almost full then release brakes "..because thats what the p chart said.." - if it is a truely short runway you may have to but otherwise......).
The usual result of poor handling is stuffed props!
I operate commercially on a mixture of gravel and bitumen with lots of loose stones in a mixture of singles between 150hp and 310hp (and the odd twin) and very very rarely get ANY stone damage. Yes it does happen but not common...
So Dear OZ GRADE 3 If any of your guys are do any of items 1-4 you may have a very cheap solution to your prop problem - STOP DOING DUMB THINGS!
Usually caused by people raised (aka "taught to fly") at a capital city where loose stones are unheard of!
Before spending many $1000s on new props that MAY help try:
1. Not hitting 1500RPM on start
2. Hold elevator full back always (yeah I know except with a howling tailwind...)
3. Run up into wind on a clean area (and into wind so that full back elevator does more to raise nose - may also help with cooling).
4. SLOWLY increase power on takeoff!! (I have actually had people stand on the brakes, increase power to almost full then release brakes "..because thats what the p chart said.." - if it is a truely short runway you may have to but otherwise......).
The usual result of poor handling is stuffed props!
I operate commercially on a mixture of gravel and bitumen with lots of loose stones in a mixture of singles between 150hp and 310hp (and the odd twin) and very very rarely get ANY stone damage. Yes it does happen but not common...
So Dear OZ GRADE 3 If any of your guys are do any of items 1-4 you may have a very cheap solution to your prop problem - STOP DOING DUMB THINGS!
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All very good and well. But as soon as there is a perforation or crack in the leading edge, it has to be replaced, and that means; prop off, leading edge off, paint cut back, new leading edge on, paint applied, static balance carried out (static balance on an MT is critical and blades must be closely matched) and prop refitted, ground runs, test flight.
Or, file your metal prop back with any stone damage over it's life and at TBO buy a new one.
Other people using your low slung engine on a variety of strip surfaces? Keep your metal prop.
Or, file your metal prop back with any stone damage over it's life and at TBO buy a new one.
Other people using your low slung engine on a variety of strip surfaces? Keep your metal prop.
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Totally agree Courier101. The subject is raised in the monthly staff meeting ad-nauseum, all the points you have raised are covered etc etc but it still happens.
p.s...it wasn't me who nicked the prop, I found it on a pre-flight. Anyone who has flown with me knows I'm a nazi when it comes to looking after a prop.
p.s...it wasn't me who nicked the prop, I found it on a pre-flight. Anyone who has flown with me knows I'm a nazi when it comes to looking after a prop.
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3. Run up into wind on a clean area (and into wind so that full back elevator does more to raise nose - may also help with cooling).
But point three, despite it being the obvious has actually proven to be an OWT.
So actually you are better pointing downwind at being able to watch the traffic on base and final in most CTAF's.
Yes I know, counter intuitive......but we have the data, and I doubt many if anyone else does
And of course if you don't get that ding in the strip patched in short order, you start to get water absorbing through the perforation after an afternoon dump.
Araldite.
Got quite a few hours in a Malibu with a 4 blader and Vulcanairs with the option. Quieter, climbs faster, actually less stone damage to the underside of the -46(
), but not a fan from the service availability and damage POV.
Courier-
Yup. Agree 100%. That's what happens when you get instructors who can't see past minimum hour to get into an airline! (not a dig at you, OG3.) Got one the other day who (while pointing directly over the taxiway, nice start...) looked over the shoulder straight at me as I started to move around behind them and promptly dialed up the RPM's.
fcuckin'...
Araldite.
Got quite a few hours in a Malibu with a 4 blader and Vulcanairs with the option. Quieter, climbs faster, actually less stone damage to the underside of the -46(
), but not a fan from the service availability and damage POV.Courier-
Yup. Agree 100%. That's what happens when you get instructors who can't see past minimum hour to get into an airline! (not a dig at you, OG3.) Got one the other day who (while pointing directly over the taxiway, nice start...) looked over the shoulder straight at me as I started to move around behind them and promptly dialed up the RPM's.
fcuckin'...
