Mysteries Solved! How to Start a Fuel Injected Engine.
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Mysteries Solved! How to Start a Fuel Injected Engine.
After seeing a couple guys struggling to start their fuel injected lycoming while working on an aircraft this afternoon; I walked out and started it on the first go. The pilot (who seemed to be on a group navex with his mates) looked a bit embarrassed and I reassured him that I had made the same errors when I first started out.
Considering that I had the same problems when I first flew an injected engine I thought I'd give some pointers on how to start them.
Lycoming normally aspirated engine
Cold Start
Mixture Rich, Throttle Fully open.
Prime the engine - turn on the boost pump, watch for the fuel flow to rise from Zero. Once the fuel flow rises wait one second and then switch the pump back off.
Mixture - idle cut off
Throttle - slightly cracked open.
Mags on, Crank the starter - As soon as the engine fires advance the mixture to rich.
Hot Start
Throttle - Leave it where it was when you shut down at 1000rpm.
Mixture - Idle cut off
Mags on, Crank the starter - As soon as the engine fires advance the mixture to rich.
***Note: on the odd occasion you may have to prime the engine with a splash of fuel if the engine doesn't fire after the second crank*** - as soon as the fuel flow rises, turn off the boost pump.
Sometimes you may get vapour lock in the injector lines after sitting on the ground for more than 15mins. To clear it, flood the engine with fuel. This will cool the injector lines back down and stop vaporising the fuel in the lines (then refer to the flooded start). You may notice fuel vaporisation just after start on the taxi as the engine will run rough. Turn on the boost pump and it will clear it.
Flooded Start
Ok, so you've flooded your engine from over priming it. This will be evident from the small puddle of fuel under manifold drain. We all do it from time to time. Those will attest that when we first jumped into fuel injected aircraft we all did it at least once - no big drama.
There are two ways about going about it. Obviously you have to clear the extra fuel from the intake manifold and the cylinders.
First way
Throttle - wide open
Mixture - Idle cut off
Mags on.
Crank the engine. The fuel/air mixture will start to lean out in the cylinders to a point where the engine will fire. As the engine lights pull the throttle back to near idle and advance the mixture all the way forward. Be careful not to over rev the engine on start - this takes some perfection. You will master it in the first couple starts when you have to use it. - This is the most successful way to start a flooded engine.
You could also open the throttle wide open, have the mixture at idle cut off with the mags off and crank the engine for say five seconds to draw the excess fuel out. Mags on, a splash of fuel and away you go.
It will take you a few flights to master the starts but at least you weren't totally thrown in the deep end.
Cheers,
Use all of the above advice at your OWN risk - just to cover my backside.
Considering that I had the same problems when I first flew an injected engine I thought I'd give some pointers on how to start them.
Lycoming normally aspirated engine
Cold Start
Mixture Rich, Throttle Fully open.
Prime the engine - turn on the boost pump, watch for the fuel flow to rise from Zero. Once the fuel flow rises wait one second and then switch the pump back off.
Mixture - idle cut off
Throttle - slightly cracked open.
Mags on, Crank the starter - As soon as the engine fires advance the mixture to rich.
Hot Start
Throttle - Leave it where it was when you shut down at 1000rpm.
Mixture - Idle cut off
Mags on, Crank the starter - As soon as the engine fires advance the mixture to rich.
***Note: on the odd occasion you may have to prime the engine with a splash of fuel if the engine doesn't fire after the second crank*** - as soon as the fuel flow rises, turn off the boost pump.
Sometimes you may get vapour lock in the injector lines after sitting on the ground for more than 15mins. To clear it, flood the engine with fuel. This will cool the injector lines back down and stop vaporising the fuel in the lines (then refer to the flooded start). You may notice fuel vaporisation just after start on the taxi as the engine will run rough. Turn on the boost pump and it will clear it.
Flooded Start
Ok, so you've flooded your engine from over priming it. This will be evident from the small puddle of fuel under manifold drain. We all do it from time to time. Those will attest that when we first jumped into fuel injected aircraft we all did it at least once - no big drama.
There are two ways about going about it. Obviously you have to clear the extra fuel from the intake manifold and the cylinders.
First way
Throttle - wide open
Mixture - Idle cut off
Mags on.
Crank the engine. The fuel/air mixture will start to lean out in the cylinders to a point where the engine will fire. As the engine lights pull the throttle back to near idle and advance the mixture all the way forward. Be careful not to over rev the engine on start - this takes some perfection. You will master it in the first couple starts when you have to use it. - This is the most successful way to start a flooded engine.
You could also open the throttle wide open, have the mixture at idle cut off with the mags off and crank the engine for say five seconds to draw the excess fuel out. Mags on, a splash of fuel and away you go.
It will take you a few flights to master the starts but at least you weren't totally thrown in the deep end.
Cheers,
Use all of the above advice at your OWN risk - just to cover my backside.
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That is exactly what I do for the fuel injected Continental in the SR20 and 22, only exception is that for the cold start I just crank with the mixture rich versus waiting like you do for the crank to raise the mixture.
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Ahhhhh AeroZep!
You need the FTDK to come along and explain in fine detail the "Bonanza Fuel Pump Shuffle"
And before you get your dancing shoes out....let me say this that once mastered the art of starting a hot Conty is a mystery no more!
And if you are not careful you rev the crap out of it by mistake
Forkie will explain no doubt....and with some usual "expansion of the truth" when it comes to young Jaba's learning the dancing routine!
J
You need the FTDK to come along and explain in fine detail the "Bonanza Fuel Pump Shuffle"
And before you get your dancing shoes out....let me say this that once mastered the art of starting a hot Conty is a mystery no more!
And if you are not careful you rev the crap out of it by mistake
Forkie will explain no doubt....and with some usual "expansion of the truth" when it comes to young Jaba's learning the dancing routine!
J
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most fuel injected lycos run rich at idle so on a hot/flooded start, when it fires I increase the mixture just enough to keep it running nicely. Full rich a second too early often causes it to die again in my experience.
When you live....
Hot Start
Have found sometimes that if an engine is really hot then the following can work:
1. Master on
2. Throttle wide open
3. Mixture rich - look for a quick spurt of fuel flow
4. Mixture cutoff
5. Throttle closed then open 1/2 inch
6. start.
Seems to put just enough fuel into the cylinders to make it work nicely.
Otherwise, failsafe is:
1. Master on
2. Fuel pump on (keep pressure in the lines - prevents vapour lock where possible)
3. Crack throttle, mixture ICO
3. start
4. ease the mixture open (as mentioned above so it doesn't get reflooded).
5. fuel pump off
Works perfectly every time.
UTR.
1. Master on
2. Throttle wide open
3. Mixture rich - look for a quick spurt of fuel flow
4. Mixture cutoff
5. Throttle closed then open 1/2 inch
6. start.
Seems to put just enough fuel into the cylinders to make it work nicely.
Otherwise, failsafe is:
1. Master on
2. Fuel pump on (keep pressure in the lines - prevents vapour lock where possible)
3. Crack throttle, mixture ICO
3. start
4. ease the mixture open (as mentioned above so it doesn't get reflooded).
5. fuel pump off
Works perfectly every time.
UTR.
OK, OK - take your partners for the Bonanza shuffle!
The following will work 100% of the time with fuel injected TCM IO520 and IO550 engines. Starting, particularly hot starting, is really only an issue with the older Bos and Barons that have single speed (high) boost pumps. Cessnas and Beech with two speed pumps are far less of an issue.
Cold Start (no big deal!)
1) shove everything forward
2) hit the fuel boost pump until fuel flow stabilizes
3) close the throttle and then crack it where it would normally be for idle (or 1/4 inch if you don't know the former)
4) crank the starter till the engine fires
5) set throttle to desired rpm
Hot Start (the Bonanza shuffle!)
1) Mix full rich, Pitch full fine
2) Crack the throttle just a bee's dick (one turn on an older Bo's vernier throttle
3) Hit the boost pump until fuel flow stabilizes
4) Open the throttle 1/4 to 1/2 (I use 1/4)
5) Crank the starter till the engine fires
6) If the engine starts to die (it generally will) - hit the boost pump until it picks up again - then "off"
7) Repeat (6) if necessary!
8) Reduce throttle to give desired rpm (1000 rpm)
In maybe 2-300 hot starts in the FTDK I have only had to have two goes maybe twice. Except when trying to teach Jaba the Bonanza shuffle!
If all else fails (with TCMs or Lycs)
1) Shove everything forward
2) prime it until you are sure it is flooded
3) Throttle full open
4) Mixture full lean
5) crank the engine till it fires
6) smoothly move mixture to full rich
7) quickly close throttle to desired rpm
8) immediately allow the aeroplane to taxi forward 1.5 aeroplane lenghts in case excess fuel has been pumped out onto the ground and lit up during the start
Another method that is recommended for hot starting the big bore fuel injected Contis is to run the boost pump for 1 - 2 minutes with the throttle closed and the mixture full lean. This will cool the fuel system and remove any fuel vapour that is the cause of problem starts. Then start as per a normal cold start. If you are going to try this you need to first check that when you do it - fuel does not overflow out of the fuel system into the engine compartment onto the ground - with the inherent danger of a fuel fire.
I have never done it this way cause the Bonanza Shuffle works 100% of the time - so why change.
Dr
The following will work 100% of the time with fuel injected TCM IO520 and IO550 engines. Starting, particularly hot starting, is really only an issue with the older Bos and Barons that have single speed (high) boost pumps. Cessnas and Beech with two speed pumps are far less of an issue.
Cold Start (no big deal!)
1) shove everything forward
2) hit the fuel boost pump until fuel flow stabilizes
3) close the throttle and then crack it where it would normally be for idle (or 1/4 inch if you don't know the former)
4) crank the starter till the engine fires
5) set throttle to desired rpm
Hot Start (the Bonanza shuffle!)
1) Mix full rich, Pitch full fine
2) Crack the throttle just a bee's dick (one turn on an older Bo's vernier throttle
3) Hit the boost pump until fuel flow stabilizes
4) Open the throttle 1/4 to 1/2 (I use 1/4)
5) Crank the starter till the engine fires
6) If the engine starts to die (it generally will) - hit the boost pump until it picks up again - then "off"
7) Repeat (6) if necessary!
8) Reduce throttle to give desired rpm (1000 rpm)
In maybe 2-300 hot starts in the FTDK I have only had to have two goes maybe twice. Except when trying to teach Jaba the Bonanza shuffle!
If all else fails (with TCMs or Lycs)
1) Shove everything forward
2) prime it until you are sure it is flooded
3) Throttle full open
4) Mixture full lean
5) crank the engine till it fires
6) smoothly move mixture to full rich
7) quickly close throttle to desired rpm
8) immediately allow the aeroplane to taxi forward 1.5 aeroplane lenghts in case excess fuel has been pumped out onto the ground and lit up during the start
Another method that is recommended for hot starting the big bore fuel injected Contis is to run the boost pump for 1 - 2 minutes with the throttle closed and the mixture full lean. This will cool the fuel system and remove any fuel vapour that is the cause of problem starts. Then start as per a normal cold start. If you are going to try this you need to first check that when you do it - fuel does not overflow out of the fuel system into the engine compartment onto the ground - with the inherent danger of a fuel fire.
I have never done it this way cause the Bonanza Shuffle works 100% of the time - so why change.
Dr
Last edited by ForkTailedDrKiller; 23rd Jun 2010 at 12:17.
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"immediately allow the aeroplane to taxi forward 1.5 aeroplane lenghts in case excess fuel has been pumped out onto the ground and lit up during the start"
Great advice Dr. I once burnt the fabric off the lower left wing after a botched hot start, (LYCO not TCM). unfortunately it did not start despite continued cranking. I had to unstrap, get out quickly and move the aircraft away from the fire source - very lucky the the entire aircraft was not lost.
Great advice Dr. I once burnt the fabric off the lower left wing after a botched hot start, (LYCO not TCM). unfortunately it did not start despite continued cranking. I had to unstrap, get out quickly and move the aircraft away from the fire source - very lucky the the entire aircraft was not lost.
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Had varying results with the Lyco IO540's non-turbo...
It sometimes depended on the particular engine, at least with the machines in the fleet that I flew.
I recall one M/E aircraft that I flew preferred starting when hot with one engine having the pump on whilst cranking, whilst the other engine preferred a quick splash prime via the fuel pump before cranking.
It started easier that way. The technique worked for other blokes aswell on that particular machine.
Carby 540's were much easier (And they powered my favourite plane in that fleet, but now I got them fancy Pratt gizmos)
But in general, the thread starter's method was pretty much the way to go I found! Unless you had to work out a particular quirk to a particular machine.
Logged time in only 1 Conti-powered machine. Thoroughly hated it; but that might be because it was a bucket, rather than the engine. Was a while ago now, cant remember how to start that one, but I do recall flattening the battery once or twice as it had a little bit of an evil side!
It sometimes depended on the particular engine, at least with the machines in the fleet that I flew.
I recall one M/E aircraft that I flew preferred starting when hot with one engine having the pump on whilst cranking, whilst the other engine preferred a quick splash prime via the fuel pump before cranking.
It started easier that way. The technique worked for other blokes aswell on that particular machine.
Carby 540's were much easier (And they powered my favourite plane in that fleet, but now I got them fancy Pratt gizmos
)But in general, the thread starter's method was pretty much the way to go I found! Unless you had to work out a particular quirk to a particular machine.
Logged time in only 1 Conti-powered machine. Thoroughly hated it; but that might be because it was a bucket, rather than the engine. Was a while ago now, cant remember how to start that one, but I do recall flattening the battery once or twice as it had a little bit of an evil side!
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If one of the mods would be kind enough to to rename the thread "how to start a fuel injected engine" that'd be great; seeing that we have both conts and lyc starting procedures here.
I'll including Turbocharged Lycs tomorrow.
ta.
I'll including Turbocharged Lycs tomorrow.
ta.
That's not all!
Can we add supercharged, geared, injected lyco's as well?
You all know what i am talking about...Queenairs. I have logged over 2000 hours of frustrating start ups and i tell you that once you have mastered it you would start a D4 doser buried in sand in Yemen for the last 40 years with ease. Trust me!
I used to love'm but
Can we add supercharged, geared, injected lyco's as well?
You all know what i am talking about...Queenairs. I have logged over 2000 hours of frustrating start ups and i tell you that once you have mastered it you would start a D4 doser buried in sand in Yemen for the last 40 years with ease. Trust me!
I used to love'm but
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Every 520, 540 and 720 I've started, starts first time every time, be it -5 or +40 with Pumps on everything forward for a second everything closes crack the throttles (position changes for different engine temp and OAT) and hit the starter.
I was told 3 different starting techniques for 3 bonanza's at the same company
(points to anyone who guess which company). 50% of the time it works every time
I was told 3 different starting techniques for 3 bonanza's at the same company
(points to anyone who guess which company). 50% of the time it works every time
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Started many 520 contis, once you get a method sorted, it will work with any 520 that is working as it should.
If you can't start a 520 cold, then I reckon there is something wrong with it.
For a hot start, I have found the mixture at idle cutoff, pumps on high for a minute or 2 works the best (just watch you aren't getting any fuel flow). Then set about 1/2 throttle and hit start. It should start within a few revolutions. Once it fires, flick the fuel pump to low.
If you can't start a 520 cold, then I reckon there is something wrong with it.
For a hot start, I have found the mixture at idle cutoff, pumps on high for a minute or 2 works the best (just watch you aren't getting any fuel flow). Then set about 1/2 throttle and hit start. It should start within a few revolutions. Once it fires, flick the fuel pump to low.
Grandpa Aerotart
I got a TRULY spectacular stack fire once using the 'flood it' technique at Mt Hagen (5500' amsl) in a C185 - keep cranking and suck the flames back in when it starts
Why would you need to adjust the RPM back to 1000'?
My IO550 just burbles into life and settles at 7-800 rpm.
Why would you need to adjust the RPM back to 1000'?
My IO550 just burbles into life and settles at 7-800 rpm.
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Thank you to Jabba, the good Dr., and all. The Bonanza shuffle sounds a bit like starting a radial where three perhapes four hands would be ideal.
Something A65 powered
But also IO-360... so nothing as manly as a Bo
What are you looking at flying ?
But also IO-360... so nothing as manly as a Bo