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-   -   Gieves & Hawkes (https://www.pprune.org/military-aviation/644484-gieves-hawkes.html)

ORAC 4th Jan 2022 06:38

Gieves & Hawkes
 
Only thing I ever bought from them was an SD hat, back around 1975. did/do they still make uniforms?

https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/s...ebts-0995snqjf

Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes falls victim to China debts

The owner of Gieves & Hawkes has been put into liquidation after initial attempts to find a buyer for the 250-year-old Savile Row brand failed.

The British tailor, along with its sister brands Kent & Curwen and Cerutti, faces being consigned to history after its Chinese ownerappointed FTI Consulting and R&H Services as joint liquidators. It is understood that the firms were drafted in by Standard Chartered, the company’s lender, after the advisory firm RSM failed to find a buyer.

Gieves & Hawkes traces its roots back to 1771 and has dressed royalty as well as Lord Nelson, Winston Churchill and Noël Coward. It has about 60 shops in Britain, including 1 Savile Row.…..

Industry experts suggest a rescue deal could still be struck for Gieves & Hawkes’ brand name while restructuring specialists have suggested that the tailor’s archive collection, which includes military uniforms, could be sold off at auction to collectors of historic artefacts……

30mRad 4th Jan 2022 07:48

Bought a new uniform from them a few years ago now, excellent quality and customer service (as you'd expect esp with the price!). How many more British companies will be lost...sad to see tbh.

Lima Juliet 4th Jan 2022 08:21

Yes, they do (did) - https://www.gievesandhawkes.com/pages/military

GeeRam 4th Jan 2022 09:06

Many, many years ago I started collecting old uniforms etc., and one of the ones I acquired, from memory, some time in the early 90's, was a complete RAF No.1 uniform, with a Gieves & Hawkes named & dated label to January 1940. A friend of mine found it for sale in a local charity shop, having just got it in from a house clearance, so sadly likely from its recently deceased original owner.
Some years ago, I sold everything to a dealer, but kept that one because of its connection to the Battle of Britain timeframe. With time now marching on, I will need to start thinking about passing that one into the hands of a younger collector as well.

TBM-Legend 4th Jan 2022 09:53

I had a svelte hounds tooth cashmere/wool sports jacket made by them in my Jr officer days while visiting London for the first time from the colonies.

Ninthace 4th Jan 2022 11:01

My RN uniform was a Bernards special which I was reliably informed at Dartmouth was not really an orfficers' tailor. When I joined the Air Force, my nearest tailor was G & H in Camberley. When I went in there to get my uniform made, the conversation went along the lines of:

"Good Morning sir, how may ai help you?"
"I would like to be measured for a uniform please"
"Certainly sir. May ai enquire which Regiment or Corps?"
"The Royal Air Force"
"Oh I see. Nigel - do we do the the Royal Air Force?"
"Yes, I think we do. I will check"
Muffled muttering and shuffling of paper
"Yes Rodney, it seems we do"
"Jolly Good. Would sir care to step this way"

The final result was not bad but the fit was not as good as the Bernards Special.

Subsequently, when was I on the DS at Bracknell in 1999, I did pop in for another best hat as I could park in Sandhurst and wander into Camberley. Unfortunately, the G&S website does not list a shop in Camberley any more.

NRU74 4th Jan 2022 12:18

I arrived at South Cerney in 1961 aged 17 in my Burton's suit for which I'd saved up from my two paper rounds and working at Woolworth's on Saturdays. I was told by the Flight Commander to get a 'proper' suit from one of the Military Tailors. These 'Tailors' attended the barrack block en-masse, Alkits, Moss Bros, Gieves, R E City etc circling us young Officer Cadets like hawks !
I bought a very expensive suit but was able to buy it on tick, unfortunately since I put on over a stone during the course I then had to pay to have it let out. I hold no affection for any of them.

Blue_Circle 4th Jan 2022 12:31


Originally Posted by NRU74 (Post 11165001)
I arrived at South Cerney in 1961 aged 17 in my Burton's suit for which I'd saved up from my two paper rounds and working at Woolworth's on Saturdays. I was told by the Flight Commander to get a 'proper' suit from one of the Military Tailors. These 'Tailors' attended the barrack block en-masse, Alkits, Moss Bros, Gieves, R E City etc circling us young Officer Cadets like hawks !
I bought a very expensive suit but was able to buy it on tick, unfortunately since I put on over a stone during the course I then had to pay to have it let out. I hold no affection for any of them.

I still occasionally wear a suit my father in law had made in 1966 when he promoted to Flt Lt. It was made by EC Squires and still looks like new so I'd say he got his money's worth out of it. Incidentally when it came to uniforms he always refered to G&H as 'Gieves the thieves'.

Mogwi 4th Jan 2022 13:27

Mogwi senior had a G&H uniform sculpted for him as Sub Lieutenant (A) RNVR in 1943. The main reason was that the account was cancelled if you were killed on active service. This happened to quite a few WAFUs around this time.

Mog

Ninthace 4th Jan 2022 15:22

Proper officers had uniforms by Gieves and their wages were paid by Coutts & Co, who were the Queens bankers so one felt that HRH was paying you herself, or at least one of her minions was on her behalf.

Sleeve Wing 4th Jan 2022 15:49

Remind me please, somebody. I had a suit made by Cairds of Elgin who I believe was the Scottish offshoot of either G&H or Moss Bros ?
I was based at Lossie at the time - 1963/4
I still have the suit. It has been cleaned many times and you can still sleep on a train in it without gaining a single crease ! Ask my grandson !!

galaxy flyer 4th Jan 2022 20:41

Sad to hear, I have one of their ties, all blue with little red triangles on it.

etudiant 4th Jan 2022 21:48


Originally Posted by ORAC (Post 11164872)
Only thing I ever bought from them was an SD hat, back around 1975. did/do they still make uniforms?

https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/s...ebts-0995snqjf

Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes falls victim to China debts

The owner of Gieves & Hawkes has been put into liquidation after initial attempts to find a buyer for the 250-year-old Savile Row brand failed.

The British tailor, along with its sister brands Kent & Curwen and Cerutti, faces being consigned to history after its Chinese ownerappointed FTI Consulting and R&H Services as joint liquidators. It is understood that the firms were drafted in by Standard Chartered, the company’s lender, after the advisory firm RSM failed to find a buyer.

Gieves & Hawkes traces its roots back to 1771 and has dressed royalty as well as Lord Nelson, Winston Churchill and Noël Coward. It has about 60 shops in Britain, including 1 Savile Row.…..

Industry experts suggest a rescue deal could still be struck for Gieves & Hawkes’ brand name while restructuring specialists have suggested that the tailor’s archive collection, which includes military uniforms, could be sold off at auction to collectors of historic artefacts……

Seriously sad, this is an icon that is getting trashed.
Gieves was imho the epitome of the British tailoring franchise, arrogant and snobbish, but very capable indeed.
Guess it is no surprise that they fell to the concept of 'casual Fridays' and tennis shoes as business attire.
I will hate the future where every one has a hundred black turtle necks, in honor of Steve Jobs.
So I'll raise a glass in honor of G&H, their passing marks another milestone in the decline of the West.

Melchett01 4th Jan 2022 22:28

I see at the bottom of the article Marks & Spencer are sniffing round. Can you imagine the outrage amongst some of the more well-healed types if they suddenly found themselves wearing an M&S suit!

Big Pistons Forever 4th Jan 2022 23:57

My first bespoke Naval Mess kit. The brain wanted G & H, the wallet dictated Hong Kong Charlie :O

Sue Vêtements 5th Jan 2022 00:05

I had a Hugo Boss jacket once

I heard they used to make uniforms

NutLoose 5th Jan 2022 01:16


Originally Posted by Sue Vêtements (Post 11165317)
I had a Hugo Boss jacket once

I heard they used to make uniforms

Yes they did, however an SS uniform is hardly acceptable in polite conversation these days.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hugo_B...shion_designer)

Asturias56 5th Jan 2022 08:53

Interesting - the SA always looked as if they shopped at a charity shop for uniforms whereas the SS always looked as if they'd spent a small fortune on clothes

MPN11 5th Jan 2022 09:36


Originally Posted by Ninthace (Post 11165083)
Proper officers had uniforms by Gieves and their wages were paid by Coutts & Co, who were the Queens bankers so one felt that HRH was paying you herself, or at least one of her minions was on her behalf.

At OCTU in 1965, IIRC we were assigned to Banks as Pay Agents according to our surname initial. Those towards the end of the alphabet went to Coutts, the rest to Lloyds.

Uniform provision was, as noted, done by the circling vultures of the various Mil Tailors. I may have gone for Alkit on the grounds of cost, but as I spent my Initial Outfitting Allowance on a newer car, the drip-feed of paying off their bill dragged on for several years!

ORAC 5th Jan 2022 09:50


Those towards the end of the alphabet went to Coutts, the rest to Lloyds.
Cox’s & Kings. Taken over by Lloyds in 1923. It was always nice to visit the branch in Pall Mall and deal with someone with numerous aircraft prints on the wall of their office who understood how RAF officers know and pay were linked.

Still with them, but now a PO Box somewhere in Chelmsford…..

https://www.jstor.org/stable/44229113



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