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denachtenmai
16th Apr 2018, 15:48
A while back there was a thread about the quick way to post a photo. from the computer to pprune without having to have an account with photobox or suchlike, now I can't find it:\ any help would be appreciated as I went to Fort Nelson today and some good pics. were acquired.(No aviation content:O)

VP959
16th Apr 2018, 15:54
You can use postimage. You don't need an account and so can just upload a photo and then paste the link here between image tags.

The postimage site is here now (it had some issues with it's URL changing recently, but the redirects seem to work for images posted to the original URL): https://postimages.org/

kar42
16th Apr 2018, 15:55
A while back there was a thread about the quick way to post a photo. from the computer to pprune without having to have an account with photobox or suchlike, now I can't find it:\ any help would be appreciated as I went to Fort Nelson today and some good pics. were acquired.(No aviation content:O)

Under the Community tab above click on Pictures and Albums and away you go.

treadigraph
16th Apr 2018, 15:55
This may help you... (https://www.pprune.org/pprune-problems-queries/603030-how-do-i-post-photo.html)

VP959
16th Apr 2018, 16:03
Under the Community tab above click on Pictures and Albums and away you go.

Brilliant, I had no idea that feature existed! Thanks very much indeed.

Gertrude the Wombat
16th Apr 2018, 17:34
You can try just pasting the image into the edit box, which works these days on plenty of other sites, but I got


The text that you have entered is too long (36415 characters). Please shorten it to 30000 characters long.
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And trying a smaller image (above) doesn't seem to work. Looks like somebody has had a seriously half-arsed attempt at disabling this feature.

denachtenmai
16th Apr 2018, 20:15
Thanks for the replies folks, treadi. has nailed it for me :ok:

Animal Mother
17th Apr 2018, 07:24
You can also try Imgur.

Loose rivets
17th Apr 2018, 23:45
https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-rob-s-pictures-picture1139-bunny-pancake.jpg

Loose rivets
19th Apr 2018, 04:25
https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1143-20171023-235736-002.jpg

Loose rivets
19th Apr 2018, 04:28
https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-[IMG]

[IMG]http://[IMG]https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1141-20171023-120511.jpg[/IMG


albums-watch-workings-picture1141-20171023-120511.jpg[/IMG


Obviously havn't got the hang of it yet. I'll tidy up soonest.

Loose rivets
19th Apr 2018, 04:28
https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1141-20171023-120511.jpg


https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-innards-picture1144-20171021-174216.jpg

G-CPTN
19th Apr 2018, 08:24
https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1143-20171023-235736-002.jpg

What camera/lighting/exposure setting?

I used to indulge in such activity as a young teenager (actually pre-teenage).
With fine-definition (ie slow) film you could never have enough light - especially when using extension tubes or bellows.

Loose rivets
19th Apr 2018, 11:05
Having purchased extension tubes for my Nikon, I had modest results. The chaps on the Seiko forum were turning out exquisite pictures from small but quite pricey cameras. I tried my Samsung S6 phone in macro etc., and was pleased with the results. Good enough for me and ebay etc.

Forums (http://www.seiko7a38.com/apps/forums/topics/show/7517616-inside-the-7a38)

The Phone was known to have a good camera and I'll have another bash tonight - I'm missing sunshine now. It's tungsten correction is particularly good.


These shots from Paul's site are good because he (in this case, Sir Alun) takes one through a problem. I have twenty or so of these 7A38 and variants and learned most of my fettling from these guys.

Paul could be considered a world authority on this range of watches - however, we all started having trouble with Pho toe bucket and it's causing a fair amount of grief.

Sadly, Seiko's period of fine watches ended suddenly - far too complex to make at that price, and the 7T series was a throwaway movement. I've saved a couple, but no joy working with plastic cogs (wheels) The Grand Seiko range is back to being a real watch, but the name has become synonymous with sub 200 quid bling and I'm not sure who'll pay multi thousands for a watch with that connection.

In haste

VP959
19th Apr 2018, 11:20
Sadly, Seiko's period of fine watches ended suddenly - far too complex to make at that price, and the 7T series was a throwaway movement. I've saved a couple, but no joy working with plastic cogs (wheels) The Grand Seiko range is back to being a real watch, but the name has become synonymous with sub 200 quid bling and I'm not sure who'll pay multi thousands for a watch with that connection.

In haste

Off topic, but I followed a thread that I think you started, or at least contributed a lot to, about these Seiko watches, and as a result managed to repair all the non-functioning buttons on my 7A28 and fit a new crystal and all the seals, without too much trouble (although I will admit that using a home made tool in my drill press to fit the new crystal was a bit hair raising). The watch now looks like new, amazing the difference fitting a new crystal made, replacing the very scratched original.

The snag is that whilst all three of the small dials now work perfectly, the buttons all work, the watch keeps excellent time (as it always has), the sweep second hand doesn't work. I'm guessing that it may be the stepper motor that drives it that's at fault, but before buying one and spending hours stripping the watch to replace it, I wonder if you had any thoughts?

Loose rivets
19th Apr 2018, 23:24
I'm impressed!!! :ok: I used a drill press with purchased dies, and have developed a method of heating the bezel to help. If you can't save them, the seals/O rings, are bizarrely expensive and very hard to fit.

Removing the bridges is doable for the sweep second hand, but it's doubtful it will be needed. Removing the main bridge is easy . . . but putting it back is a challenge. One member spent hours and hours, and then came back to it another day. He then spent hours and hours and couldn't do it. There are 7 shafts to locate and one of them is the main rotor. The motors are very magnetic and flop to one side or another - never stay in the middle.

The first thing to do is look at the hand under at least X4 magnification. If it's twitching then there's a chance it's mechanical and will free with (the most delicate) help and some lube. Don't lube the wheels/cogs just the bearings. Some bearing need Mobius oil, others, something else. If the needle is dead, then most likely it's the surface contacts with the 'Circuit' and the coil. Scratching the gold surface needs to be done with a lot of imagination of just how large the scoring is. Also, INSULATE one's hands from a metal tool as the voltages can be huge. Not static, just the AC on our bodies.

I use a sewing needle with the eye cut in half (the end cut off) as a lube carrier. Needle size=blob size. I also make other tools out of needles as the steel is so good. A rubber tube to a pipette makes a good suction oil remover.

I expect you know, but the button/pusher at 4 O'clock sustained press of 2 seconds, will test all 4 synchronous motors for one rotation.

The coils are wound with wire that is as delicate as glass. I have never succeeded in repairing one. A cheap DVM will confirm a continuous winding, though I've had a brain failure of the resistance. I think it's 2.6k ohms. If not, it's about 2k.. Two of each, and the lower resistance ones are physically smaller.

When probing the coil's contacts, use minute probes and DON'T GO NEAR the transparent glue blobs that affix the winding to the terminals. So that's about half a mil away. :ooh:

Cousin's in the Uk have some coil blocks though they have trebled in price. 16 quid or more now.

I used to rely on buying do-uppers for parts, but almost always found I could make a nice watch out of the really rough DNA encrusted offerings so didn't build up a stockpile like the forum members. My last 4 purchases all have failed coils. :{ One, clearly vandalised, probably by a watchmaker that wanted to sell something new.

The conductive glue is worth a try but cleaning the wires is a black art. Nail varnish stripper may work, but I've never even achieved a reading from that. A soldering iron will vaporise the wire - which strangely is magnetic.

Now back to the OP subject with me trying to remember how I inserted a bunny with a pancake on its head. I'll post this now for fear of losing all this verbiage.

India Four Two
19th Apr 2018, 23:32
You can also try Imgur.

I recently posted a tutorial on how to display imgur images:

https://www.pprune.org/aviation-history-nostalgia/459713-aerodrome-mk-iii-409.html#post10113840

Loose rivets
19th Apr 2018, 23:47
Posting photos. Oh dear, I'm not sure I can remember.

User CP etc.

Hooray. This shows the watch with two coils removed. The arrow is pointing at the main motor armature. (an old photo) You can see the main bridge over the arrow head.

https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1147-7a38-no-go.jpg

The next one is a foe toe bucket picture with all the bridges on. All these are PRE my Samsung phone. I'm not sure if another party can page through my pictures but feel free to try on the link one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/walnaze/0%20Seiko/7289/7A38-7289Firstlook8_zps686e1136.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/walnaze/0%20Seiko/7289/7A38-7289Firstlook1_zps9cbd40d4.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/walnaze/media/0%20Seiko/7289/7A38-7289Firstlook1_zps9cbd40d4.jpg.html)

Loose rivets
20th Apr 2018, 00:07
I F T, sorry, I'd somehow stepped over your post. I'll have a bash at that when brain has purged tonight's elixir(s).


Back for a quick one on User CP method.

This dirt was all under ONE pusher button. It's easy to see why they don't push (and click over those harp shaped springs.)

https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1148-20171021-213750.jpg

India Four Two
20th Apr 2018, 01:23
Lr,

No problem. I love the watch pictures.

VP959
20th Apr 2018, 06:37
I'm impressed!!! :ok: I used a drill press with purchased dies, and have developed a method of heating the bezel to help. If you can't save them, the seals/O rings, are bizarrely expensive and very hard to fit.

Removing the bridges is doable for the sweep second hand, but it's doubtful it will be needed. Removing the main bridge is easy . . . but putting it back is a challenge. One member spent hours and hours, and then came back to it another day. He then spent hours and hours and couldn't do it. There are 7 shafts to locate and one of them is the main rotor. The motors are very magnetic and flop to one side or another - never stay in the middle.

The first thing to do is look at the hand under at least X4 magnification. If it's twitching then there's a chance it's mechanical and will free with (the most delicate) help and some lube. Don't lube the wheels/cogs just the bearings. Some bearing need Mobius oil, others, something else. If the needle is dead, then most likely it's the surface contacts with the 'Circuit' and the coil. Scratching the gold surface needs to be done with a lot of imagination of just how large the scoring is. Also, INSULATE one's hands from a metal tool as the voltages can be huge. Not static, just the AC on our bodies.

I use a sewing needle with the eye cut in half (the end cut off) as a lube carrier. Needle size=blob size. I also make other tools out of needles as the steel is so good. A rubber tube to a pipette makes a good suction oil remover.

I expect you know, but the button/pusher at 4 O'clock sustained press of 2 seconds, will test all 4 synchronous motors for one rotation.

The coils are wound with wire that is as delicate as glass. I have never succeeded in repairing one. A cheap DVM will confirm a continuous winding, though I've had a brain failure of the resistance. I think it's 2.6k ohms. If not, it's about 2k.. Two of each, and the lower resistance ones are physically smaller.

When probing the coil's contacts, use minute probes and DON'T GO NEAR the transparent glue blobs that affix the winding to the terminals. So that's about half a mil away. :ooh:

Cousin's in the Uk have some coil blocks though they have trebled in price. 16 quid or more now.

I used to rely on buying do-uppers for parts, but almost always found I could make a nice watch out of the really rough DNA encrusted offerings so didn't build up a stockpile like the forum members. My last 4 purchases all have failed coils. :{ One, clearly vandalised, probably by a watchmaker that wanted to sell something new.

The conductive glue is worth a try but cleaning the wires is a black art. Nail varnish stripper may work, but I've never even achieved a reading from that. A soldering iron will vaporise the wire - which strangely is magnetic.

Now back to the OP subject with me trying to remember how I inserted a bunny with a pancake on its head. I'll post this now for fear of losing all this verbiage.

Many thanks. As far as I can see there's no movement at all on the sweep second hand, so my guess is that it's not mechanical but a failed coil, perhaps. I have had some of the watch apart, as the U shaped springs that return the button pushers were slightly corroded, so as well as replace the button pusher seals (and fit new circlips, because they go "ping" when you remove them...) I've had the PCB off and cleaned everything up. It took ages to get the buttons to move freely, years of crud inside the holes in the case seemed to be the problem.

Doing the long press thing to cycle the three small dials and the sweep hand works for the small dials, but the sweep hand stays stubbornly fixed at 12 o'clock. It doesn't seem to be mechanically stuck, as far as I can tell. The odd thing is that I'm pretty sure it worked before I decided to get all the buttons working properly and fit a new crystal. The main problem was that some of the buttons would stayed stuck when pressed in, so as a chronometer it was pretty useless.

Next time I change the battery I might remove the PCB again see if there's a problem with any of the little pins that make contact with the circuit sheet. IIRC, it's either those that make the connections to the stepper motor coils or some of the screws. Other than that I think that's as far as I'll go, as the watch works well in all other respects and looks almost like new without the old scratched crystal.

Thanks again, if it wasn't for that old thread on fixing these watches I'd have not bothered to get mine looking and working as well as it does.

Loose rivets
20th Apr 2018, 09:14
Satisfying, isn't it.

Yes, the harp shaped springs are good steel and will tollerate quite a bit of abrasion to clean them. However the stanchion they're on has to be treated with great respect. Changing those or the screw pillars is a serious strip down as they press in to the main plate.

Clean the pusher tubes with a cocktail stick perhaps in a Dremel. But DON'T use more than a hint of polish as it will oversize the tube.

Silicone in the tubes and under the pusher, though I'm never sure if it's good to have a lot of silicone in there as it may collect dust - or keep it at bay.

I think you're wise to not do the surgery for one issue. Lifting that circuit can be a challenge and it's been said that the chip doesn't like being irradiated with bright light. I'm inclined not to believe that, but find myself cutting little squares out of paper just in case.

I use three or so plastic tooth picks to lift the circuit in the style of tyre levers.

This one was a challenge. 7A48-5000 (moon) The magnification near the capacitor is about 100 just shooting through my Whatson Microscope.

VP959
20th Apr 2018, 09:49
Satisfying, isn't it.

Yes, the harp shaped springs are good steel and will tollerate quite a bit of abrasion to clean them. However the stanchion they're on has to be treated with great respect. Changing those or the screw pillars is a serious strip down as they press in to the main plate.

Clean the pusher tubes with a cocktail stick perhaps in a Dremel. But DON'T use more than a hint of polish as it will oversize the tube.

Silicone in the tubes and under the pusher, though I'm never sure if it's good to have a lot of silicone in there as it may collect dust - or keep it at bay.

I think you're wise to not do the surgery for one issue. Lifting that circuit can be a challenge and it's been said that the chip doesn't like being irradiated with bright light. I'm inclined not to believe that, but find myself cutting little squares out of paper just in case.

I use three or so plastic tooth picks to lift the circuit in the style of tyre levers.

This one was a challenge. 7A48-5000 (moon) The magnification near the capacitor is about 100 just shooting through my Whatson Microscope.


Yes, it's very satisfying to get this watch looking like new again. I put a tiny dab of silicone grease on the pushers when reassembling them, too, just as a precaution.

I was lucky in that the only signs of corrosion were very slight and restricted to the pusher springs, which were easy enough to clean up. I suspect that moisture had crept in via the old pusher seals, as the date on my 7A28 shows it was made in 1984, around the time I got it as a replacement for a much older Longines wind up chronograph watch. The fact that it's still going strong after 34 years, plus a fair bit of abuse during the early years I had it, where it was my everyday work watch, is a testament to the robustness of the design.

The thing that has always amazed me is it's accuracy. No matter how many times I've had my older (1969) Omega Seamaster 300 regulated, it can't come close to the timekeeping accuracy of the Seiko. The Seamaster could do with a new crystal and the face being renovated, as the Tritium paint on the dial has long since decayed, so the luminosity is now virtually non-existent. I'm not up to even thinking of working on the Seamaster though, it's only been serviced and regulated by the local Omega jeweller, who I think has to send it off somewhere, as it has always come back with a new pressure test chit.

Loose rivets
20th Apr 2018, 12:23
Testing will edit That's odd. It's upside down.

User CP
Pictures and Albums
find your Picture with Browse button.
ALSO Upload with button at bottom of screen.
WAIT ages for e.g. Pprune.org
Save changes
Click on that picture which should now be in the Album you created earlier with Add Album.
URL or BBcode (BB selected in this case) simple copy of line.
Paste in Post Reply screen It has the all set to go.


[IMG]https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1150-20180329-184100.jpg




https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1149-20180329-184141.jpg


This one is definitely the right way up in the album
MOST ODD. WILL PLAY WITH THIS TONIGHT.

https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1149-20180329-184141.jpg

VP959
20th Apr 2018, 13:10
That's quite a collection!

All I have is an old Rolex Tudor Prince, with the Oyster case, that needs a new crystal and bracelet, so is probably not worth getting fixed (it's been stored away in a box for at least the last 20 years, since I broke the bracelet), the Seamaster 300, that equally needs a new crystal really (it's scratched beyond any polishing out will fix), and the Seiko 7A28, that is really the nicest looking and working one of the bunch.

Loose rivets
20th Apr 2018, 14:35
The 7A28 seems to be surpassing the 38 series in value now. It's all down to Roger Moore's James Bond connection.


Let's test the CP method again for the one's left in Texas. Not sure I'll ever see them again as I missed my repatriation deal with customs due to life's chaotic dance.

Best of course to open a new tab, leaving this screen ready to receive the copy.

https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1151-shots-collection-1.jpg


The one on the green cloth is here, and stripped and with a face off oil. Guess what - the sweep second hand failed as is awaiting my attention.

Shame, it's an Yves Saint-Laurent with fabulous lockdown band and screw tight crown. Inside, it's a Seiko 7A28.

I had wondered if I could sell it as the one Roger wore when he was having a night out with Carole Bouquet. He'd need something French to impress the most beautiful Channel No.5 girl ever.

It's what's known as NOS. New old stock. I don't think it's ever been worn.


https://www.pprune.org/members/34274-loose-rivets-albums-watch-workings-picture1152-20170505-173345.jpg

They put this movement in various watches, including one badged as Ferrari.


Despite having the pics and 170 mb left, my last attempts (3) at uploading have failed. I'm puzzled by PPRuNe's response time but realise the overhead of storing picture data is quite a burden.

,
,
,

VP959
20th Apr 2018, 15:32
I've noticed that it does take time to upload here, sometimes long enough to make you wonder whether anything is happening at all. I resize the photos before I upload them, too, so they are only around 200 to 300kb.

My 7A28 has the screw-down crown, but has a black face and stainless steel case.

I'll try and find the old Rolex Tudor Prince Oysterdate later, and see if I can post a photo of that with the Seiko and Seamaster. I've been checking out prices and it seems that the Rolex Tudor Prince Oysterdate might be worth getting fixed. When I bought it in Singapore in around 1975/6 I only paid 20 for it, really as a favour for a colleague who was skint and about to fly home, and I was convinced it was a good-looking fake. It was only when I took it in to be repaired that I was told that it was genuine and would have to be sent back to them for repair. At a guess I reckon it probably dates from the late 1960's, perhaps a bit later.

Loose rivets
20th Apr 2018, 18:18
I'm surprised to hear there was a 7A28 with a screw down crown. It rings a distant bell, but might be a rarity. I'm sure you'd be welcome on the Seiko 7A38 by the numbers forum.

One has to be so careful with selling any good watch.

I've mentioned this recently on PPRuNe, but there was a Rolex GMT master on a stately home antiques day in the grounds and the bloke who'd bought it from the Naffi? wasn't expecting huge sums. I thought perhaps, with all the paperwork including the chronometer certificate and the box, 20k. The expert suggested, based on recent experience, 73 thousand pounds. I was offered one of those in Piccadilly for 89 quid c 1963.

VP959
20th Apr 2018, 20:44
A quick look around suggests the Rolex Tudor Prince Oysterdate, with the Rolex bracelet repaired and a new crystal, could be worth around 1000 to 1400, which is a great deal more than I expected. I'll pop into the local Rolex agent in town tomorrow and see if he can give me a rough idea of the cost to get it put right. It'd be nice to have it running again, as I like it as daily use watch, mainly because it has a date window, something neither the Seiko or the Seamaster have.

I've checked, and you're right, the 7A28 doesn't have a screw down crown, it just spins freely when fully pressed to the most inward position, I was getting confused with the Seamaster and the Rolex, which both have a screw down crown. I can't find the Rolex, so will look in the loft tomorrow first thing and see if I can drag it out and take a photo.

Loose rivets
20th Apr 2018, 22:44
Not being able to find one's Rolex has a very positive ring of class. ;)

Loose rivets
21st Apr 2018, 00:27
I didn't know until just now, from the thread about little ones, that one could page through everyone's pictures in Attached Thumbnails while looking at one post. A handy asset.

VP959
21st Apr 2018, 09:04
Not being able to find one's Rolex has a very positive ring of class. ;)

Definitely not class! I didn't realise until checking yesterday that this watch was worth anything. It's got a Rolex oyster case and bracelet, but a Tudor Prince movement, so I always thought the thing was a bit of a mongrel. It seems I was wrong!

Loose rivets
21st Apr 2018, 10:46
Hmm, that fills me with the desire to take it to pieces. Perhaps if I ever get a hobby-shop again, I'll have a bash with one.

I recently put a chargeable battery in a self charging watch which replaced the condenser. So much gubbins that's not needed. The darn replacements will last for ages without winding.



https://www.google.com/search?q=Tudor+Prince+movement&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=b-3pFadhm6-7NM%253A%252CW2KRyQ37t-NxsM%252C_&usg=__BKy6rd4E71g_ZiNsXkiVeKG5r6o%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjc59iFl8vaAhVQJFAKHahpBbEQ9QEINTAF#imgrc=TTX6YDBF lYUTlM:

VP959
21st Apr 2018, 12:39
Right, it's taken me over two hours of searching to find the damned thing, but I eventually dug it out of a box that's moved house with us at least four times without being opened. Amazingly, the Tudor Prince Oysterdate still runs, but the sweep second hand must have been bashed when the crystal was broken (and that was in a pub in Falmouth, some time before I met my current wife, so over 30 years ago). It isn't in great condition, but I'm encouraged that it still runs and that the bracelet looks like all it needs is a new hasp. Here are all three, the Omega Seamaster 300 at the left, the Tudor Prince remnants in the centre and the 7A28 at the right (I should have reset the left most chronograph dial to zero...):

https://www.pprune.org/members/59439-vp959-albums-vps-photos-picture1155-all-three.jpg

and a close up of the 7A28-7120. not on it's original strap, I fitted it with a German Bundeswehr 6645-12-145-6415 strap, as the original strap (of which I must have worn out at least three or four over the years) just looked out of place, in my view:

https://www.pprune.org/members/59439-vp959-albums-vps-photos-picture1159-7a28-close-up.jpg

and here are some close ups of the Tudor Prince Oysterdate, front and rear:

https://www.pprune.org/members/59439-vp959-albums-vps-photos-picture1156-tudor-prince-oysterdate-close-up-1.jpg

https://www.pprune.org/members/59439-vp959-albums-vps-photos-picture1157-tudor-prince-oysterdate-close-up-2.jpg

https://www.pprune.org/members/59439-vp959-albums-vps-photos-picture1158-tudor-prince-oysterdate-rear.jpg

Loose rivets
21st Apr 2018, 14:32
Grief! Does that Seiko have this kind of engraving on the back? i.e. military stamp etc. (forget the atomic battery nonsense)


https://omegaforums.net/attachments/img_20180210_080117_012-jpg.510318/



From:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/seiko-7a28-7120-gen-1-serviced-1yr-guarantee.70962/



The 7A38-7000 was my first watch in 1985 and the start of all this activity, but anything with military connections is by far the most sought after.

https://www.google.com/search?q=seiko+7a38-7000&client=firefox-b-ab&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=HGtIWhaQ2wiYqM%253A%252C3u3H0pSAgW4N0M%252C_&usg=__kIxahBd5uMoEppjnP0oqRiPcpPE%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiimrqhy8vaAhVDC-wKHYiSBUYQ9QEIKzAA#imgrc=_

VP959
21st Apr 2018, 15:05
Grief! Does that Seiko have this kind of engraving on the back? i.e. military stamp etc. (forget the atomic battery nonsense)


https://omegaforums.net/attachments/img_20180210_080117_012-jpg.510318/



From:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/seiko-7a28-7120-gen-1-serviced-1yr-guarantee.70962/



The 7A38-7000 was my first watch in 1985 and the start of all this activity, but anything with military connections is by far the most sought after.

https://www.google.com/search?q=seiko+7a38-7000&client=firefox-b-ab&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=HGtIWhaQ2wiYqM%253A%252C3u3H0pSAgW4N0M%252C_&usg=__kIxahBd5uMoEppjnP0oqRiPcpPE%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiimrqhy8vaAhVDC-wKHYiSBUYQ9QEIKzAA#imgrc=_

Yes, it does, same NSN, 6645-99-7683056, except the serial number and date on mine is 0808/84, so it is one of the very early 7A28-7120's:

https://www.pprune.org/members/59439-vp959-albums-vps-photos-picture1160-7a28-rear.jpg

There's a story behind this watch, in that I was originally issued with a Longines chronograph, when I started flight test work, and in 1984 that was withdrawn and I was issued with the Seiko, which, TBH, I didn't like much (I preferred the look of the Longines). When I was eventually kicked into management to the point where I had no excuse to fly at all, I handed all my kit back to the stores. The storeman said that as much of my flying kit was pretty old, I could keep anything I wanted and he'd write it off and give me a chit to take it out of the gate. I kept my coverall, cold weather flying jacket, a couple of pairs of flying gloves, flying boots, thermal underwear, woolly pullies, socks and the watch, and let him dispose of the helmet, headset, oxygen mask, anti-G clothing, goon bag etc that I couldn't think of a personal use for.

So, I lawfully acquired the watch after it had been officially written off, and still have the authorisation chit safely stowed in case anyone ever asks for it. I suspect part of the reason it was written off was that it was no longer the current issue watch, so couldn't have been re-issued, plus the crystal was pretty scratched up from years of daily use and abuse and the grey strap was practically worn out (although I managed to acquire a new grey one a year or two later).

I've been reading up a bit, and it seems that these very early Seiko 7A28-7120's seem quite sought after, for some reason. It certainly keeps superb time, and is far and away the most accurate watch I've ever had.

VP959
21st Apr 2018, 21:05
OK, now I really am gobsmacked. The Omega Seamaster 300 (right at the left in the photo I posted earlier), seems to be worth a bit more than I'd thought. Here's a close up:

https://www.pprune.org/members/59439-vp959-albums-vps-photos-picture1163-seamaster-300.jpg

I've just seen an ebay listing for a similar model, just one year older (mine is the exact same model number, but is dated 1969)for a few thousand pounds.

It looks like he has some sort of validation certificate from Omega, so presumably I could have a go at getting the same. If this watch is worth a fair bit of money I'm definitely going to sell it and then use some of the money to get the Rolex Tudor Prince Oysterdate fully refurbished, and use that as my daily watch, as at most that's only worth around 1400 or so.

G-CPTN
21st Apr 2018, 21:20
Be careful of assuming that eBay is the oracle of value - although there are undoubtedly people out there who are prepared to pay silly prices - sometimes.

Is the seller merely flying a kite in the hope that someone will bite.

Of course, if the seller is a dealer, then they will not be prepared to offer you full price for your watch.

Loose rivets
21st Apr 2018, 22:32
First, the Seiko. Given its provenance and the back markings, it is probably at the very top end of Seiko desirability.

Sell one to refurbish another? Mmm, I wouldn't, but it's always a dangerous thing to advise people on what and what not to keep, and I'm the last person to do so. I once sold a gold pocket watch, the fusee movement of which I'd just repaired without magnification since I could focus at 8". Only recently, I watched the program about Mary Antoinette's watch and the company that was building it for so many years. I know mine was French, but . . .

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Antoinette_(watch)

If it'd had Breguet stamped on it, it would have been worth more than the sizeable house I was clearing out. A lot more. I'd prefer not to know if it had. Sometimes best to just keep things, though when I do, they become valueless. Just had a dealer round to look at some of the last antiques I inherited. A beautiful three leaf dining table, a wonderful loo table, an ormolu vitrine cabinet, a . . . well, you get the picture. He didn't want any of them at any price. "Everyone wants 50's 60's retro". I'll pop down the village dump and see if any of my modern stuff is still there.

Probably best to horde small things, especially if you enjoy having them nearby.

The lume on your watch. A chap on TV described going into a university with the lume he'd scrapped off a few watches. A researcher there ran out into the corridor shouting, Radiation in the Building!!!!!!!! It was treated very seriously. Don't breath in while restoring it.

Modern lume is very good, some of the T series watches I sold on lit the room up when the lights were turned off.

Now, where's that picture to validate the thread drift?

That lume is probably suspended over holes in the hands. It is inordinately difficult to spread across the gap.

Loose rivets
22nd Apr 2018, 00:45
4825A 7A38 in America. Showing the tachy coil.

Strange, I somehow made this out of focus one jump out of the box while trying to delete it.

VP959
22nd Apr 2018, 08:16
First, the Seiko. Given its provenance and the back markings, it is probably at the very top end of Seiko desirability.

Sell one to refurbish another? Mmm, I wouldn't, but it's always a dangerous thing to advise people on what and what not to keep, and I'm the last person to do so. I once sold a gold pocket watch, the fusee movement of which I'd just repaired without magnification since I could focus at 8". Only recently, I watched the program about Mary Antoinette's watch and the company that was building it for so many years. I know mine was French, but . . .

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_Antoinette_(watch)

If it'd had Breguet stamped on it, it would have been worth more than the sizeable house I was clearing out. A lot more. I'd prefer not to know if it had. Sometimes best to just keep things, though when I do, they become valueless. Just had a dealer round to look at some of the last antiques I inherited. A beautiful three leaf dining table, a wonderful loo table, an ormolu vitrine cabinet, a . . . well, you get the picture. He didn't want any of them at any price. "Everyone wants 50's 60's retro". I'll pop down the village dump and see if any of my modern stuff is still there.

Probably best to horde small things, especially if you enjoy having them nearby.

The lume on your watch. A chap on TV described going into a university with the lume he'd scrapped off a few watches. A researcher there ran out into the corridor shouting, Radiation in the Building!!!!!!!! It was treated very seriously. Don't breath in while restoring it.

Modern lume is very good, some of the T series watches I sold on lit the room up when the lights were turned off.

Now, where's that picture to validate the thread drift?

That lume is probably suspended over holes in the hands. It is inordinately difficult to spread across the gap.

I'll definitely keep the Seiko, as I've always liked it (although not as much as it's predecessor), it has a sentimental attachment as it was my "work" watch for the last ten years I was flying as a part of my job, plus it keeps really excellent time.

I know what you mean about the lume on these things, mine was too bright to have facing upwards on the bedside table when new, as it would light up the whole room. The luminosity has faded to nothing now that the Promethium 147 has decayed, but I can live with that, I have no need now to be able to read it when tucked away inside a black hole somewhere inside a trials aircraft any more.

Having looked at the Rolex Tudor Prince Oysterdate, I've pinned it's date down to 1963, from the case serial number that I managed to find between the lugs (409,104). Apparently Rolex Tudor Prince Oysterdates with a case number below 390,000 are 1962 or earlier and those over 430,000 are 1964 or later. It really is a nice little watch; it's smaller than many of the newer Rolex Oysters, I think, with a 31mm diameter case and a 17mm wide bracelet. It would make a nice "daily use" watch, as it's still running on time this morning, and probably only needs some relatively minor work to bring it back to a serviceable watch. It's not too valuable to have sat on one's wrist, nor is it bulky or ostentatious. Quietly understated might be the best way to describe it.

So, the plan is to try to sell the Seamaster 300, as I'm sure someone would get more pleasure from owning it than I do. Then I can use some of the profit from that to get the Rolex Tudor Prince Oysterdate tidied up properly. I don't think I will mess about with it myself, although I may put off replacing the bracelet and just fit a proper Rolex strap - I've never got on well with metal bracelets anyway. I feel a bit ashamed that I just kept this old watch stored in a box in various lofts (I've counted up and it's been in seven different houses with that box never having been opened) for the past 30+ years, it deserves to be properly restored and worn, I think.


4825A 7A38 in America. Showing the tachy coil.

Strange, I somehow made this out of focus one jump out of the box while trying to delete it.

Thanks for that, looking at the blurry photo it looks like the contacts to the sweep hand stepper coil seem to be by one of the many screws that apply pressure to the circuit board and make contact with the small gold pads around the hole. That makes me wonder if there may be something not making contact in that area, as I was very careful when I stripped it to not touch the stepper coils; I only stripped it down enough to remove the movement and get at the pushers in the case and the pusher springs on the movement, which did mean taking the circuit board off.

Most of the work I did on it was with the case, removing the pushers, cleaning the holes out, spending hours getting the pushers to run freely when fitted with new seals and circlips (still have some spare circlips, as I lost a few when they went "ping"....). Replacing the crystal with a new seal was a bit hair raising, but I spent more time turning up an delrin mandrel and holder for the case on the lathe, to make sure I could push it in evenly and dead-square than I did actually fitting it. I also bought several new seals for the case back, as they don't seem to last more than one or two battery changes,

Next time it needs a new battery I'll investigate further and see if there is anything obviously wrong with the stepper coil - should be easy enough to check the coil resistance, and if that's OK it would seem likely the the problem may be with the contacts to the circuit board. If I can't fix it I'll leave it for now, as I never use the chronometer functions now anyway.

And, for the obligatory photo, (as we've taken this thread way off topic - sorry...), here's the old crystal from my 7A28, so you can see just how bad it was before I replaced it:

https://www.pprune.org/members/59439-vp959-albums-vps-photos-picture1164-old-7a28-crystal.jpg

Loose rivets
23rd Apr 2018, 16:49
Being all fired up about watches, I phoned a friend. Where's that Omega of yours - the one that caused weight and balance problems? He hunted it out.

It seems it was only made over a very few years and he paid practically nothing for it. In conversation, this is about as near as I could get.

Waving one's arms was life-threatening to one's crew.


https://www.1stdibs.co.uk/furniture/more-furniture-collectibles/collectibles-curiosities/collectible-jewelry/omega-seamaster-120m-automatic-chronograph-1971-aka-big-blue/id-f_8225553/?utm_content=control&currency=gbp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI38a1st3Q2gIVl5EbCh2YfwC8EAQYASABEgLm1_D_Bw E&gclsrc=aw.ds

VP959
23rd Apr 2018, 18:24
Being all fired up about watches, I phoned a friend. Where's that Omega of yours - the one that caused weight and balance problems? He hunted it out.

It seems it was only made over a very few years and he paid practically nothing for it. In conversation, this is about as near as I could get.

Waving one's arms was life-threatening to one's crew.


https://www.1stdibs.co.uk/furniture/more-furniture-collectibles/collectibles-curiosities/collectible-jewelry/omega-seamaster-120m-automatic-chronograph-1971-aka-big-blue/id-f_8225553/?utm_content=control&currency=gbp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI38a1st3Q2gIVl5EbCh2YfwC8EAQYASABEgLm1_D_Bw E&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is the one to get fired up about:

Bonhams : Omega. A stainless steel automatic military issue wristwatch Seamaster 300, Ref:165.024, Movement No.24725274, Circa 1965 (http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23511/lot/19/)

Nearly 70k for a watch that's over 50 years old.................

BTW, that would cause weight and balance problems; when I've worn my same model Omega it was like having an anchor strapped to your wrist. I'm looking forward to getting the little Rolex Tudor Prince Oysterdate fully restored, as although not very valuable it's a very much nicer and more discreet watch.