Gipsy Major Series 10 Engine - Chipmunk.

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

Due to an 'unforeseen incident' - mechanical failure - with a current Gipsy Major Series 10 engine, I find that I am having to source another of the same.

I would prefer a low time, or a 'zero' time 'Series 10' engine to enable a 'straight changeover'.

All suggestions welcome....keep it clean please....

Cheers

Griffo:ok:

[Frank Arouet]

Challinor's Murwillumbah come immediately to mind. I believe they still go under the name Mothcare. They should point you in the right direction.

Aero Engine Services, Hamilton NZ may still be around.

As a wild aside, many of these engines were manufactured in Brazil. (My last one was). Google may still be our friend.

Cheers and good luck.

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

Many Thanks for that Frank.

Unfortunately, Mr Challinor unable to assist at this time.

I'll try NZ.....TA :ok:

[Chimbu chuckles]

He's currently on holidays OS for a couple more weeks but Wok Wonarski at YRED did UXD's Gypsy 10...with alloy head, slick mags and sodium filled valves. Those mods apparently address the bulk of Gypsy Major failure points.

PM me for his mobile and I will find out when he's due home.

Wok does a beatifull engine:ok:

[Dora-9]

Chimbu,

I've already sung Wok's praises to Griffo, particularly after the lovely job he did on my top overhaul (shouldn't that be a bottom overhaul for a Gipsy??).

Another good source of engine bits/engines/Fairey-Reed props is Chris Harrison - Griffo, email me if you don't have his details.

[roundsounds]

Maybe give Glen Caple a go, he is the chief engineer at the Royal Aero Club of WA. He owns a Chippy himself and maintains the Club's machine. A very capable engineer and pilot.

[rjtjrt]

Chris Harrison had one advertised for sale recently.

[tail wheel]

Gipsy Major 1 Engine - Complete | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gipsy-Major-1-Engine-Complete-/160968033398?pt=AU_Aircraft&hash=item257a714476)

[Jabawocky]

Wok is the man:ok:

And nobody beats UXD in climb or top end performance either.

Not many ponies in them Gypsy donks so ya gotta make sure they are all thoroughbreds :ok:

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

Thanks Tailie for the link...however, I knew about this one...
Unfortunately, 'tis a Series '1', the Chippy takes a '10'...

Hi Mr round sounds, many thanks for your suggestion.
Glen maintains mine as well....

Hey Jaba, :p 'Dora' has already put me onto 'Wok', - just waiting for him to finish his holiday....

Hey Chimbu - Thanks for the recommendation.
That's why my Tiger had a Series 10 as well.
84 kts IAS after the top o/haul at 2100rpm during rings run in - even the 'wires' were singing...
Then exactly 12 months later, she threw a conrod on No 1 cyl.
'Dora' has some pics....came home 'happily' on 3 cyls at 1800rpm to clear the houses on NIL oil 'cept what was left .....when you see the photos, all will be clear.

TKS again 'Dora'...Still lookin' till I can find one.

'10's are a bit 'scarce' it would seem.....

Thanks again Guys and Gals...:ok:

[LeadSled]

Folks,
From memory, if you can find a Mk8 (military) it can be converted to a -10. Try in the UK, including Vendair at Biggin Hill, if they are still around.
Tootle pip!!

[27/09]

AESL (Aero Engine Services Ltd) don't exist as such any more, probably morphed into Aeromotives engine shop. Not sure they will have anything.

Try Colin Smith (Croydon Aircraft Co) at Mandeville, he's the DH guru over here but you probably knew that anyway.

There's also a very strong Tiger Moth club, someone there may be able to help.

Tiger Moth Club of New Zealand Inc (http://www.tigermothclub.co.nz/)

[Eastern2217]

I'd get in touch with the Bunn brothers down near Albury.

[aldee]

Just to throw another "maybe" into the equation the boys at Luskintyre would have to be worth a look
Although predominately tiger folk I'd be surprised if they haven't got a handle on all things Gipsy

[ozzieausterdriver]

Hi Folks,

I have several 10-2 engines on the shelf - one of which is ready to go and zero timed with all the latest mods and sodium valves/slicks/Ed Clark pistons.:)

[email protected] ([email protected])

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

Thanks 'ozzie',

email sent to address given.

Ta
:ok:

[ozzieausterdriver]

Try [email protected] as nothing seems to be coming through on sctelco!

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

Many Many Tks Guys & Gals..

O'ill let yas all know 'ow Oi go.....
Ta Muchly...!!!:ok::ok:

[avcraft]

Hey ozzieausterdriver! How about a 1C? I've got an Auster with a lack of oil pressure....

[aroa]

Avcraft.
Have you been operating during the recent very hot weather and finding "low oil pressure" ?

I had a prob years ago..it was the grade of oil used..it was recommended that a heavier grade be used in very hot conditions.

On departing a place in the tropics around midday after re-fuelling, engine still hot...flickering gauge on low after departure.
Back on the ground..Plenty of oil ...but it was like water in the extreme heat. Checked all fliters etc..no restrictions there.
In the cool of the morning..back to normal, for a belated getaway.

GM manual says "Tropical" above 30C Aeroshell 120, Mobil Green Band
Not sure how these "modern" oils cater for all this.
Fly safe and keep out of the weeds !! :ok:

[ozzieausterdriver]

Sure do have 1C'S as well as 1CZ engines -

pm for further info if required.

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

Wilco Mr ozzieausterdriver....Thankyou.
:ok:

[LeadSled]

aroa,
Green Band is still around.
The problem with some of the excellent modern oils is that individuals in CASA demand that the original manufacturers recommendations be observed, precluding the use of modern oils.
Modern multi-grade oils are way ahead, even in old engines, but my experiences in getting approval to use modern oils that are sold as direct replacements for older single grade oils was, to say the least, disheartening.

In total contrast, of course, to FAA or NZ CAA.

What I would never admit to, in public, of course, would be to the use of some excellent oil additives, specifically developed by the USAF in the '50s, for big radials, which are just as applicable to small piston engines.

Tootle pip!!

[blackhand]

but my experiences in getting approval to use modern oils that are sold as direct replacements for older single grade oils was, to say the least, disheartening.Wasn't aware one needed approval leadsled, just has to be equivelant or better.

[CHAIRMAN]

Not good old MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil), Leadie:ok:

[T28D]

The MMO works really well in round engines, noneof this if it gets hot it gets thicker stuff.

Just good old thick slippery stuff.

[avcraft]

Thanks Aroa, not too hot in NZ though... Mid 20's.. I'm running W100Plus. I've got some investigating to do first, oil level was quite low after landing, approx 3/4 gallon. I need to check the suction side of pump for leaks and the pickup etc. Oil burn is a little high, using about 3L an hour and fouling plugs on 1 cylinder on approach so I'm think ring issues...

[Jabawocky]

You guys seriously don't use MMO? Surely a wind up going on here.

As for oils, Leadie is correct about the newer oils with corrosion inhibitors etc (ASL CamGuard) and if you need to run a straight W120 not the W100plus CamGuard would be a worthwhile addition.

As for anything else, you might want red undies, a rabbits foot or anything else you find that gives you warm fuzzy feelings from a superstition.

As for MMO, well if you had some gummed up rings, and you filled a cylinder overnight and let it soak, that could work, so long as you drained it out. MMO is a very light weight paraffin oil, and 25% solvent, 1% dimethylether and some dye and fragrance.

As for adding it t your fuel. Don't.

I can see this thread now taking on a whole new definition of thread drift.

[avcraft]

We use MMO for general lubrication on the Kingairs as per Mr HBC's lubrication schedule... Never heard of it used in engines or fuel??!!

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

"DRIFT" APPROVED.......

OVAH!! :ok:

[CHAIRMAN]

Aw c'mon Jaba, there's got to be a 'mystery' ingredient in there somewhere, I know fellas that swear by it as a great top end lubricant:{

[Jabawocky]

That is the mystery, why they swear by it:confused:

You now ave the recipe to make your own. In fact if I dig up the info, you could have a more specific recipe.

:ok:

[T28D]

So wots the recipe ??????

[Volumex]

Via BeechTalk, WA and EK :-

MMO is 30 weight basestock, 25% Stoddard solvent (varsol), 1% dichlorobenzene, red dye and wintergreen fragrance.

Linky (http://www.beechtalk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=851422#p851422)

[Jabawocky]

Thanks for that ST :ok:

I searched for that and failed to find it. :ugh: Mind you breakie was calling!

Ed Kolin is one reliable source of knowledge in this area, and the man behind the ASL Camguard.

[rjtjrt]

Ex FSO
Did you have any luck with the Gipsy search?
Jpohn

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

Hi Mr 'r',

I am out of trouble for the moment - as they say.

I have had a damaged engine repaired, and it is 'in and running'.
Still looking for an 'economical' spare Series 10 to go into the Chippy in another 200 or so hours.

Cheers:ok:

[ozzieausterdriver]

We have 9 here ready to go ! :oh:

[Cj1corbystarlet]

I'm on the hunt for a Gipsy Major for a new project ...

[ozzieausterdriver]

pm for details -

[TBM-Legend]

Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel and a bit in the oil works wonders for lubricity and as a corrosion inhibiter...

[Jabawocky]

TBM

Surely you are kidding us.

Please do not add it to your fuel. That is only reducing the octane rating. It probably works as a good equivalent to WD40 on squeaky rust things, but if you want corrosion inhibiting inside your engine, use Camguard.

[CHAIRMAN]

Now calm down Jaba, I hear tell that MMO is good as an upper cylinder lubricant when added to fuel, and great for keeping sludge out of crankcases when used in oil.............old Gipsy engines of course.
Maybe it's the fragrance of wintergreen that is the 'mystery' ingredient:confused:

[dubbleyew eight]

forgive the thread drift but WD40 aaaaarrggghhhhh!!!!!!

water displacing for 40 days as designed but then it chemically deteriorates and eventually becomes hydroscopic .....and bloody causes the rust!!!

the bastards who make this ought to be shot.

WD40 has been the cause of so much corrosion on my machine tools that it is banned in my workshop.

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

What do you think of the lanolin product like 'Olin'..??

Cheers :)

[dubbleyew eight]

griffo from experience with a lanolin spray made in Qld, blue can.

if you keep the part dry then it will keep the part corrosion free.

if the part gets wet or is subject to night time condensation the dew will combine with the lanoline coating and set off rust anyway.

if you have bare metal parts that need to be corrosion protected I find that spraying them with a lanolin based spray and then putting them in ziplock plastic bags or those plastic boxes with sealing lids to exclude condensation then they will stay corrosion free for years.

if they need to be out in the atmosphere nothing beats a good paint.
ymmv.

[Ex FSO GRIFFO]

Thanks for that Mr 'D'.

:ok: