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BOAC
24th Jan 2013, 15:19
Anyone have a service manual for a UK Hoover Maxi6 TV30 dryer? Been all over the internet. A sugary sweet dolly at Hoover 'cannot give me any information as they are not insured'.blah blah blah, (aka we'd like to send an engineer out and charge you a fortune). I cannot even get the top off to check the belt and there appears to be no obvious way into the back.

beaufort1
24th Jan 2013, 15:26
Try looking here.

Hoover maxi 6 tv 30 Problems & Solutions - FixYa (http://www.fixya.com/tags/hoover_maxi_6_tv_30)

B Fraser
24th Jan 2013, 15:29
You may have to take the top off first, they often slide off horizontally after removing a few screws. You can then get at the fixings for the rear cover which may then slide vertically first for removal. I had one go titsup on me and it was fixed by replacing the condensor (muckle great capacitor) which was bought from Maplins for the princely sum of 7.

angels
24th Jan 2013, 15:32
BOAC - much as though I sympathise with your plight (and I do) can I just say this has got to be one of the most boring titles for a thread ever?

Many thanks. :E

AlpineSkier
24th Jan 2013, 15:32
Appliances Forum - DIYnot.com - DIY and Home Improvement (http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=11)

A helpful forum

ORAC
24th Jan 2013, 15:40
This help? (http://icdrinuk98.vuodatus.net/blog/3362575)

BOAC
24th Jan 2013, 16:54
OK - thanks for the responses

Angels - 2 aspirin and avoid reading this thread and you will feel better. I thought about the 'Computers-Internet' forum but decided it would be stretching Saab a little:)

beaufort - saw those - no actual help on getting into the bas****d

B Fraser - I've had the top screws out, but cannot shift the top at all. Another go tomorrow.

Alpine - all I can find are poor souls having the same trouble - and no solutions.

Orac - I had seen that and it looked REALLY promising - unfortunately all the internet alarms go off twittering about malware.

AlpineSkier
24th Jan 2013, 17:00
BOAC - ask your question. This is not a "read the answer forum" but much more "ask our interested and competent (?) forum members" several of whom are repair engineers.

glad rag
24th Jan 2013, 17:03
Just remember to FULLY disconnect the thing before taking the top off!

11Fan
24th Jan 2013, 17:11
Just remember to FULLY disconnect the thing before taking the top off!

Reminded of the parachutist who jumped out of the plane and his main didn't open. He went to his reserve and it's didn't open either. He looks down towards the ground and sees a dot getting larger. He realizes that it's someone coming the other way. As he goes past he yells out "Hey, know anything about parachutes?" The guy replies "No I don't. Know anything about tumble dryers?"

racedo
24th Jan 2013, 19:31
You did clean all the filters and empty the water ?

11Fan
24th Jan 2013, 19:55
empty the water

"Tumble dryer maintenance"

May be a bigger problem than I initially thought.

G-CPTN
24th Jan 2013, 20:17
Lids on whitewear tend to be held down by clips at the front and screws at the rear, so, remove screws and apply 'force' (rubber hammer?) to slide the lid from the casing.

One of the replies suggests that access to the belt is after taking the drum out from the front.

Another here:- Hoover TV30 tumble dryer belt gone..how do I - FixYa (http://www.fixya.com/support/t3781773-hoover_tv30_tumble_dryer_belt_gone)


Several used machines online:-
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Hoover+Maxi6+TV30+dryer&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=rcs

BOAC
24th Jan 2013, 20:20
May be a bigger problem than I initially thought. - I did suspect the cold fill valve at first..................

CPTN - I managed earlier to unclip the fastening moulding on the lid. Tomorrow will be an attempt to 'plier out' the actual flat bit. Hopefully at least I will get a look inside. Oh for a maintenance manual................"One of the replies suggests that access to the belt is after taking the drum out from the front". Deep joy..

PS Hope Angels is ok.................

G-CPTN
24th Jan 2013, 20:26
On models that do not have disengaging clips for the top to be removed, you must remove the front (face panel) and this is usually done by 2 small screws at the bottom of the front panel. Then you tilt the front out and will be able to unhook the front from the top. Now, you need to undo a small bolt or screw inside between the top and the side panel (there is one on each side).

BOAC
24th Jan 2013, 20:47
Had a good root around for front panel screws and could not see any. Will check tomorrow.

G-CPTN
24th Jan 2013, 21:06
Some machines have an open bottom, and lying them on their side (or back) can reveal the innards - even if you cannot reach the part(s) that you want to.

Beware that spin-dryers (and washing-machines that spin) might have a large lump of concrete fixed by bolts and nuts.

racedo
24th Jan 2013, 21:10
May be a bigger problem than I initially thought.

Not all dryers export water vapour outside, some collect it internally to be emptied by user, machine stops working until its emptied.

Prob not the issue here.

gas path
24th Jan 2013, 21:23
The question is: Are pilots, even retired ones allowed sharp tools?:suspect:

11Fan
24th Jan 2013, 21:51
Cheers racedo. Didn't know that.

chiglet
24th Jan 2013, 22:00
- I did suspect the cold fill valve at first..................

And I thought that we were talking about Tumble Driers.....not Tumble Washers.... Cold FILL indeed...:ugh:
Just changed my knadgered [13yo]Zannussi Condenser drier for a Hotpoint.Mega leap forwards :ok:

racedo
24th Jan 2013, 22:38
Cheers racedo. Didn't know that.

Trust me found out not reading the manual and checking everything, plug / fuses etc etc until SWMBO on phone from girlie weekend away asked the question...................you did empty the water out. :ugh: You know it got relayed around later.

Also never leave drier on when not around, friend left and came back 10 mins later as she left phone to find hers on fire...................Fire brigade said always a danger because of level of dust.

Loose rivets
25th Jan 2013, 04:34
I thought we'd teach the Texans a thing or two when we got down south. Bought a clothes line. Baaaaaaaad mistake. Air is full of Mexican dust.

Got a HUGE Maytag gas dryer for $250. Like new. Put in a steel chimney through the roof. Magic, for several years.

Short cycled. Buggah.

As G-C says, so often these panels can be held by steel spring-clips and a really skinny piece of steel like a paint scraper can push them to the unclipped position. I proudly rolled the drum into the next room and went back to the machine. Horror! It was filled with detectors. Gas alight detectors. Gas gorn out detectors. Humidity detectors and detectors to detected the well-being of detectors. I blew the leaf dryer at them all, and then up the chimney.


Blooody no use at all.


Went up on the roof and took the cap off. It was solid with fluff. More like papier mache. Cleaned it out, and the darn thing worked like a dream.

david1300
25th Jan 2013, 04:42
"Had a good root around for front panel screws and could not see any. Will check tomorrow.":eek:
BOAC - there's the problem right there.:p. Your misses needs the dryer fixed and all you want is sex. Man, pull yourself together (or just pull yourself if you need too), but concentrate on the task.;)

Now I suppose you're going to lure Slasher in here seeing you rooting around the front panel,:D and raising (as a figure of speech) you by rooting on the dishwasher, or in the freezer, or something.:8

B Fraser
25th Jan 2013, 06:36
I did suspect the cold fill valve at first..................

Is this some sort of washer dryer ? What are the full symptoms and as this is Pprune, please provide a METAR for the time of the incident. ;)

BOAC
25th Jan 2013, 07:35
Sorry folks - I assumed racedo (post#11) was having a 'JB' on the topic but now I think it was a serious suggestion. I played along with it (in JB fashion) but appear to have misled many here. I am deeply ashamed. It is ONLY a Tumble Dryer (non condensing).

David - I have taken your advice and pulled myself and for slashers's benefit am think of looking for back panel screws now.

What are the full symptoms and as this is Pprune, please provide a METAR for the time of the incident. http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:www.pprune.org/get/images/smilies/wink2.gif - noisy when tumbling (a bit, I guess like slasher). Sadly despite knowing better I did NOT check the weather before starting so cannot provide a METAR.

In 'serious' mode I am beginning to think it is going to be too difficult to fix.:{

Lightning Mate
25th Jan 2013, 07:45
BOAC,

Listen mate - on your pensions bin it and get a new one, preferably German this time.

green granite
25th Jan 2013, 08:08
BOAC, silly question but have you laid it on it's side and looked underneath? most washing M/C motors etc are accessed from there so maybe tumble driers as well.

Big Hammer
25th Jan 2013, 08:58
BOAC, try this, if it does not work, PM me and I will E-mail a pdf to you.

http://service.hoover.co.uk/content/manuals/TV30.pdf

Takan Inchovit
25th Jan 2013, 09:34
Usually with dryers, you take the back panel off.

What the Fug
25th Jan 2013, 09:45
BOAC Have a look at this (http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/tumble-dryers/a/9/1438/how-to-replace-the-shaft-and-bearings-on-a-tu.html)

Full list of Tumble Dryer Clips here (http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/tumble-dryers/a/9)

Easy enough crowd to do business with

ORAC
25th Jan 2013, 10:33
Might be different, but they seem generic Hoover design instructions (http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_6388908_change-aquarius-hotpoint-tumble-dryer.html).

BOAC
25th Jan 2013, 12:02
A lot of help there, thanks. Hammer - that is the 'driver's handbook' which I have and I needed the service manual.

However, to update:for interested readers (Angels?)

The casing appears to be all spot welded - no way in sides/back/bottom - only front, with about 40 screws.:eek:

I have managed to remove the top - it needed pliers to pull the MDF sheet out of the panel holder. The belt looks ok, so I'll see if I can squirt some WD40 onto the bearing housing via some slots at the back.

I reckon it will soldier on, and despite LM's exhortation to spend my pension (he obviously thinks I have 'a big one') I'll limp along. LM - did we ever shower together at Wattisham?:)

airship
25th Jan 2013, 13:33
Dear BOAC,

I have some experience of supplying superyachts with spare parts for their so-called "professional or commercial" laundry machines - washers, driers, ironing rollers etc. Most often, the prices charged for simple spare parts (especially anything to with the electronic programmers etc.) for "higher-end" machines, are at least equal to the cost of a completely-new basic "domestic-type" machine with similar capacities and characteristics..."?! MIELE are a great example of this (high-priced "commercial" appliances and "pseudo-commercial" high-quality domestic appliances...

IMHO, when any domestic appliance (washing machine, drier, dish-washer, fridge or fridge/freezer, freezer) eventually fails. And is no longer covered by any warranty, "the costs of calling out a professional to even just come round to establish the fault", will easily exceed the costs and overall benefits of instead simply buying an equivalent new appliance.

So far as most of the superyachts I deal with are concerned. They're quite happy for their C/Es to spend hours and days working on inoperative or faulty laundry "professional" equipment. Instead of say, having bought several of yer average Whirlpool or Bosch domestic washing machine for EUR 400 each to equip their laundries, and "binning them" as soon as they went wrong (replacing them with suitble cheap alternatives).

Even if BOAC was able to provide the exact part no., description of the part which required replacement (lots of after-market suppliers out there too), the price to the consumer, for just one faulty solenoid coil (EUR 10.00 exc VAT, +/- 10%) which might require replacement would probably cost at least 3 or 4 times as much, once delivered to BOAC's residence, for eventual fitting by his own means.

So, buy cheap mostly, wherever you can, especially when it comes to the bigger domestic appliances. I recommend most of the Korean brands, but especially LG. I bought my big LG fridge/freezer at least 10-12 years ago, never had a problem with it. I bought it through a big French retailer in France who also kindly offerred me an extension of their standard 2 year guarantee upto 5 years for 'x' amount, which I didn't take up. I thunk that if the manufacturer of the appliance was based so far away, they'd probably have done all they could "to ensure the minimum number of faults on their machines, so as to avoid all the costs of returning faulty products back to the factory as it were". Compared to most European brands, whose machines are built on Turkish assembly-lines with little real differentian on the brands / models of the machines which are churned out... :=

BOAC
25th Jan 2013, 14:19
Roger all of that, airship - I'm 'up to speed' on the 'BER' theory. It was in fact only noisy rotation and WD40 seems to have helped, so on we go

G-CPTN
25th Jan 2013, 14:45
WRT cost of replacement parts versus the cost of a new unit, I have a couple of small torches bought from the Poundshop. Each has three LR1130 button batteries.

The cheapest source that I can find is 1.88 for ten, so three batteries work out as 56.4p - yet the complete torch only cost 50p.

Likewise I believe you can buy a new (low-end) printer for less than the cost of the ink cartridges (especially if you have to pay list-price for the cartridges).

A A Gruntpuddock
25th Jan 2013, 15:04
"noisy rotation" could mean that the bearing is wearing out.

Re earlier comments about fires, when our dryer failed to heat I found that dust/ fluff from the drum had built up on one part of the element.

Element overheated at that point because the cooling airflow was restricted and burned through!

We try to avoid leaving it unattended nowadays.

Seldomfitforpurpose
25th Jan 2013, 15:29
Our washing machine packed up 3 months ago, I rang a few local guys and most quoted a standard call out, look see and quote charge. We paid a guy about 25 I think to come out, take a look, upend our machine and remove the motor and show us it was fecked, as in brushes totally burnt out.

His quote to fix was 'kin expensive, he totally agreed and took his 25 and went with a smile on s face.

It was worth the call out fee to save on the endless taking tops off, prodding and poking in a totally unknowing fashion and wasting our time in Internet searches etc.

Just a thought :ok:

A A Gruntpuddock
25th Jan 2013, 15:33
"brushes totally burnt out"

If you can get the motor off, new brushes are usually cheap and easy to fit.

Seldomfitforpurpose
25th Jan 2013, 15:42
When I say brushes I mean brushes and the contacts on the rotating part of the motor.

It was a budget Beko machine and with an electronics background it was clear to me the motor was kaput, could have sourced a new one on the net and fitted it myself but life is just to short for that sort of hassle :ok:

airship
25th Jan 2013, 19:47
"brushes totally burnt out" I never realised that the AC motors that modern washing machines and driers etc. are normally equipped with still had "brushes" etc. Thought "brushes" and the like were limited to DC motors. Still a "current" motor, but hardly or not at all used for most domestic appliances.

Who's kidding who here? Someone who paid a small fortune paying a "professional" to replace the brushes on their AC motor, or the other one who saved a small fortune replacing the brushes on their AC motor themselves...?! :uhoh:

G-CPTN
25th Jan 2013, 19:59
I have changed the brushes in the drive motor of a washing-machine.

Mind you it was a simple design of machine. Tin plate held on with obvious self-tapping screws, and once that was removed the motor was accessible and the brushes were a doddle to change (and cheap from the local repair shop).

Might have done it twice on the same machine.

angels
25th Jan 2013, 20:16
BOAC - I've been following this thread with great interest I can assure you. It was the title that was boring (if practical)! It didn't take long for sex to come into the thread so no worries.

Basically I would say that if our happy gang of JBers can't answer the question then you've had it. Run the thing into ground and get a new one, they really are not that expensive.

Fareastdriver
25th Jan 2013, 20:25
Likewise I believe you can buy a new (low-end) printer for less than the cost of the ink cartridges

The manufacturers have caught on to that dodge. The cartridges that come with a new pinter are only a quarter filled. You can tell when the printer will display that it cannot show the contents of initial manufacture cartridges.

flying lid
25th Jan 2013, 21:39
Perhaps your drum needs a re-balance

Brick thrown in washing machine. - YouTube

Lid

racedo
25th Jan 2013, 22:55
Sorry folks - I assumed racedo (post#11) was having a 'JB' on the topic but now I think it was a serious suggestion. I played along with it (in JB fashion) but appear to have misled many here. I am deeply ashamed. It is ONLY a Tumble Dryer (non condensing).

It was serious

Re earlier comments about fires, when our dryer failed to heat I found that dust/ fluff from the drum had built up on one part of the element.

Element overheated at that point because the cooling airflow was restricted and burned through!

We try to avoid leaving it unattended nowadays.

If nothing else and someone does this then post will not be in vain.

G-CPTN
25th Jan 2013, 23:04
I've heard about people leaving their washing-machine to run overnight (on cheap electricity) and coming down to a flood in the morning.

mini
26th Jan 2013, 01:04
Will you lot ever get a grip?

Domestic appliance goes whopsee..

Toss it out and get a new one. No wondering, Get on with life!

Sad Buggers...

david1300
26th Jan 2013, 06:08
.... - no way in sides/back/bottom - only front, with about 40 screws.:eek:

... I reckon it will soldier on ...he obviously thinks I have 'a big one') I'll limp along. LM - did we ever shower together at Wattisham?:)

There you go again - this thread is just sex, sex, sex from beginning to end :uhoh: Not only are you rooting round the front, now you're screwing (40 times, you braggart, you :O) , trying it every which way you can - all round the sides, the back, and I can hardly say it, the bottom too := Have you no shame :E At least you found there was no way in, except from the front :D Phew, with a name like BOAC we expect nothing other than that from an upstanding WASP:ok:

BOAC
26th Jan 2013, 07:43
Thanks David - I just had to 'JB' the topic.

I'm done with the thread now, folks, so if you wish to carry on.........................

I'll just MMS a jpg of my 'personal bits' to Lightning Mate for the records. (It's what we do, innit..................:))

Loose rivets
26th Jan 2013, 07:51
I've told this before, but it was incredible. Why didn't I just search - It seems I've written about everything.:ooh:

In my heyday, c 1970, we ordered a fine new Bendix to replace the secondhand one we'd been using. A few days later the local shop carried it out still smoking. We replaced it with the old one. ( I'm not given to parting with things easily, and this time it paid off.)


Years later, the main bearing failed. Splitting the drum was a heck of a task, and my heart missed a beat when I saw the vast central shaft with the bearing on it. 1.315134958591875 th of an inch inner, and 2.94325345439585493 th of an inch outer.

A little poetic license there, but you know what I mean. I went to my mate's workshop which was in his garden and bemoaned my plight. No one had even heard of such a size, and Bendix certainly didn't want to know.

This shed was, and still is, a wondrous place, where after borrowing a fine carpenter's plane this summer, I could not find a single square inch to put it down upon returning it. Anyway, back then there was a little shelf filled with just a few odds. My mate reached for a box on the shelf, laughed, and handed me the box. "Here're you are." I kid you not, it was the right size. It ran the machine for the next several years.


We will now play you some soft music whit the Edit fairy puts its message into place.

Old 'Un
26th Jan 2013, 09:13
Snap! Mrs OU's dryer was making grinding noises. Managed to get at drum main bearing and remove it. Stuft. Took it to automotive parts place, where it was inspected briefly and a small box was produced from under the counter. "How many do you want?" I was asked. "One." "Only one? You're better off to replace both at the same time." "Both?" "Yeah, it is from a skateboard, isn't it?"

Well blow me down!

New bearing was the right one. Still going 15 plus years on.

Le Vieux

racedo
26th Jan 2013, 09:51
Will you lot ever get a grip?

Domestic appliance goes whopsee..

Toss it out and get a new one. No wondering, Get on with life!

Sad Buggers...

Not everyone subscribes to the consumer culture of chucking it out and buying new.

Also you forget that "some" of the old codgers on JB are retired, a chance to disassemble a consumer unit and repair makes the day just seem a bit more interesting.

Fareastdriver
26th Jan 2013, 09:57
There is a numbering system for bearings engraved on the side. Any bearing shop can normally pick a replacement off the shelf. Should it not be visible two minutes with a micro will lead them to the right one. Sometimes a bearing is listed as 'Exclusive to Ford' or something like that.

As far as washing machines or anything else liable to be handled by a woman insurance is the answer. Our washing machines get two visits a year and appear to be renewed for free every five years.

racedo
26th Jan 2013, 09:58
Our washing machines get two visits a year and appear to be renewed for free every five years.

Same maintenance guy every time ?

gileraguy
28th Jan 2013, 08:01
My front loading washer was making an increasingly loud clunking noise when it reversed direction. It's a fairly new Samsung and the motherboard had been replaced under the now expired warranty.

I took off the top and put it through a cycle. I was feeling for the vibration but could not seem to locate the source.

Searching the web I was sure the cause was a broken drum mount spider. It looked like a massive job.

Before I dismantled the unit, on a hunch, I checked the tension on the end mounting bolt that holds the drum to the spider. I put an eighth of a turn on the bolt, on account of it didn't feel tight enough. Problem solved. Saved a call out fee and its still going a year later with no dramas.

axefurabz
28th Jan 2013, 13:15
Can't think what enticed me inside this thread, unless it was the couldn't-pass-it-by title, but my thanks to you all for one of the most entertaining recent reads! :ok:

BOAC
28th Jan 2013, 13:31
There you go, axe
Mrs Boac says the action is much quieter now with far less screeching and banging.

toffeez
28th Jan 2013, 15:11
That's why the ladies prefer to call out the repair man.

BOAC
28th Jan 2013, 15:24
Oh for 10p for every time I've seen that video where the 'plumber' arrives to find madam in the bath..........................

OFSO
28th Jan 2013, 16:05
Lady in bath
"Knock knock"
"Who's that ?"
"Its the blind man, madame"
"Oh come in then"
"So where do you want this blind putting up, madame ?"

da-da !